rigtec
New member
I just found this you tube video; have a look and see just How to perform a Parasitic current draw test
Cheers
Cheers
Battery drawing down over 2 days - winch the cause?
- Thread starter Okki
- Start date
bjohnston115
New member
Do you have anything plugged into the OBDII port? Bluetooth reader for an app or something?
HerT4R
New member
Install an anderson connector between the winch power and the battery, that way when you don't need it it isn't connected. Then when you do need it do it at the trail head or anywhere you actually need to use it.
Did you get the version with or without AFD.?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...?colid=FO5V12JKS5RP&coliid=IA2H3QX0UE0GM&vs=1
With the switch between the battery and the winch, I don't believe AFD is needed.
Thanks
Okki
1engineer
Moderator
Okki, as I have said before I am NOT an electrical guy. Back in the day when I was running winches, and the nature of going months or even years with the winch unused, I just wired in a disconnect and pulled it until I needed it. It took 5 seconds to pop the hood and hook it back up.
I can't diagnose your problem but my method eliminates any problem.
I can't diagnose your problem but my method eliminates any problem.
flyinhawaiian01
New member
I haven't even ordered it yet, actually! The truck really has become a garage queen in the last few years, and only saw ~400 miles on it last year, not to mention I just installed the winch a few months ago, but it is on the list of things to get done before winter hits.
The truck has become the backup and recovery vehicle for me and my wife, and with real winters here in Idaho (as opposed to Oregon, Cali, and Hawaii!), I suppose I should be ready to go before the first snowfall.
Oh, and I liked the idea of Andersen powerpole connectors, but their largest one only handles 350A, so that is not an option unless there's a larger size up from their pp180 product. Think I'm just gonna stick with the bluesea switch at this point.
DannyLlama
Elite Member
Took note of the ^ good info.. Thanks [MENTION=47340]Titanpat57[/MENTION] What do you use to charge up the battery, if the alternator is not doing a full charge?
Got notification from the dealership that they tested the battery and it's bad. Their diagnostic doesn't specify anything other than that it's bad. So on my way to Sears to to talk to them about the 3 year warranty that it's still in, I'll stop by an Autozone to have it tested there as well.
Regardless, it sounds like something killed the battery prematurely.
Ordering the bluesea switch that I listed earlier and will start shopping for a Battery Tender. What is the one you guys are using?
Bluesea switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MMDLB...colid=FO5V12JKS5RP&coliid=IA2H3QX0UE0GM&psc=1
Battery leads for between battery and switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RCJB6...UTF8&colid=FO5V12JKS5RP&coliid=I1IP8YLV1DBCV3
Battery Tender? : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDFPN1O?psc=1
Okki
Regardless, it sounds like something killed the battery prematurely.
Ordering the bluesea switch that I listed earlier and will start shopping for a Battery Tender. What is the one you guys are using?
Bluesea switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MMDLB...colid=FO5V12JKS5RP&coliid=IA2H3QX0UE0GM&psc=1
Battery leads for between battery and switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RCJB6...UTF8&colid=FO5V12JKS5RP&coliid=I1IP8YLV1DBCV3
Battery Tender? : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDFPN1O?psc=1
Okki
Jeremy556
New member
Too bad Sears doesn't carry the rebranded Odysseys any more, so you're going to get a crap replacement, unless they give you a refund.
Do you have the old Warn wireless controller by chance? That thing has a pretty huge constant draw if it is plugged into the winch. I threw mine out and got the new style when I noticed how much my battery cables sparked when reattaching them with the old style.
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New:
Do you have the old Warn wireless controller by chance? That thing has a pretty huge constant draw if it is plugged into the winch. I threw mine out and got the new style when I noticed how much my battery cables sparked when reattaching them with the old style.
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jrandom
New member
I have the same battery installed about the same time you did. I started have weak start issues, as I don't drive it all that much. I started running a smart charger on it. The first cycle it took almost 9 days for the charger to read good.
[MENTION=47340]Titanpat57[/MENTION] is spot on.
I since permanently installed a NoCo Genius Gen 1 4amp and I plug the truck in whenever I know it's going to sit for a few days. Since I started doing that my battery has come back to life. The smart charger will go green in just a couple of hours after being unplugged for a few weeks. I suspect I may have done some damage to the the battery but since I have stuck with this it is acting really solid again.
Too bad Sears doesn't carry the rebranded Odysseys any more, so you're going to get a crap replacement, unless they give you a refund.
Do you have the old Warn wireless controller by chance? That thing has a pretty huge constant draw if it is plugged into the winch. I threw mine out and got the new style when I noticed how much my battery cables sparked when reattaching them with the old style.
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New:
I dont have the wireless controller. Have a Zeon 10S with the Control Pack relocation kit. Plugging in the controller seemed more of a guarantee it working to me than hoping that the wireless remote is charged when I need it.
Okki
DannyLlama
Elite Member
Nice, amazon has them for a 100 bucks.
Where do you have yours lines mounted, can you share a photo? Any additional information will be helpful to me and others.
Paul, sorry about your battery. If you have to buy a newboje, go with Northstar, very well rated all over the web!
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rigtec
New member
Hi cvc7chris,
Okki found his problem; he's got POS (+) and NEG (-) cells interacting within the casing of the battery itself, causing his current storage reserve to be depleted. The truck's electrical system should be fine now!
Cheers
jrandom
New member
So basically the battery is junk. Glad mine seems to be holding up, regardless, I am pitching for an odyssey next time.
Sure! It's mounted on the same piece of aluminum my lights are. It sits right behind the grill (it is IP68 rated). Lol you can see the charge status through the Toyota emblem.
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jrandom
New member
And the plug...up by the firewall, bought it separate, it is NoCo and right around $10. Apart from drilling a hole in the bumper cover this Seemed like the next best location. The antenna hold the extension cord when the hood is closed. You do have to open the hood to plug it in, unless you got barbaric with the plastic shroud
(On an iPad, only lets me post one pic at a time)
(On an iPad, only lets me post one pic at a time)
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flyinhawaiian01
New member
The battery he has is a re-branded Odyssey battery, not a "sears" battery, which is made by other manufacturers, not sears directly.
Taken from wiki:
Some of the batteries themselves are manufactured by Johnson Controls Inc. which also manufacture Duralast, Varta, AC Delco, as well as 20 other brands. For a time, DieHard batteries were also manufactured by Exide. However, they have switched back to Johnson Controls. The DieHard Platinum line is made by EnerSys, which also makes its own line of premium Odyssey batteries manufactured in the United States
As for Odyssey being junk, I'm now undecided about this, as Tigger had issues with his Odyssey too, and I suspect it may have similar problems. I've been using Odyssey in everything I own for several years now, and aside from one battery dying on me (purely from my own neglect), the rest of them have performed well and 4 of them are doing fine right now in all my vehicles. This just makes me wonder about them though, but I too keep them topped off with a maintainer, so maybe that's the key to long life out of these batteries.
I just put the sears battery info out because I and my family members have had issues with those auto batteries. I will also say the REDTOP batteries made over the past few years are also not good. many owners of LAMBO sport cars have had problems so now they are happy with this 34R-PC1500T - Odyssey battery...
my friend 3 months ago just got this one. the REDTOP in it was weak would not hold charge. these cars have a battery cutout switch very nice option . also a built in charger . LAMBO forum members do recommend the ODYESSEY.
What I use is a cheapo costco battery . about $80. last several years . the other batteries with good life was walmart .
Now in my truck I have an duralast battery . $120 cost 2 yrs old still solid. My other vehicle has the costco battery good deal and strong.my car is 21 yrs old this is the 3rd battery.
If I had the $200K to buy a LAMBO I would get the ODYESSEY.
my friend 3 months ago just got this one. the REDTOP in it was weak would not hold charge. these cars have a battery cutout switch very nice option . also a built in charger . LAMBO forum members do recommend the ODYESSEY.
What I use is a cheapo costco battery . about $80. last several years . the other batteries with good life was walmart .
Now in my truck I have an duralast battery . $120 cost 2 yrs old still solid. My other vehicle has the costco battery good deal and strong.my car is 21 yrs old this is the 3rd battery.
If I had the $200K to buy a LAMBO I would get the ODYESSEY.
jrandom
New member
Honestly, when I bought my Sears 31m, I did a little research and knew these where a re-branded Odyssey or at least came from the same manufacturer. I just suspected that the Sears were batteries had tested second tier off the assembly line, ie spec'd a little lower than the rest when tested.
Much like when you by a replacement part for say an LCD monitor. OEMs get first rate panels installed on the line and if/when you need a replacement panel you are often getting the same panel but one that tested lower (This comes from multiple said experiences with getting some high end monitors fixed/replaced) Some had more burnt pixels than the originals they were replacing.
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