Well, this makes me leary to add spacers. But my wheels are practically buried in the fender wells. Decisions decisions![]()
Well, this makes me leary to add spacers. But my wheels are practically buried in the fender wells. Decisions decisions![]()
Well, this makes me leary to add spacers. But my wheels are practically buried in the fender wells. Decisions decisions![]()
there must have been a problem somewhere before spacers......the wheel cant just fall off
i run NO NAME ebay 1.5'' spacers torqued to around 100lbs(instructions said 75 to 85)with blue color locktite without any problems at all.All studs are stock.....
i have been drifting in snow,mud,sand dry pavement(only a bit on dry )before heading out to a highway and putting my daughter into the vehicle without any problems.
there has to be a reason why this happened,either your mistake when installing those spacers,or rusted studs or hub or something,or maybe the spacers were not hub centric?regardless of what reason it is,there is something that was wrong............
glad everyone is ok and no one got hurt.....
Why? Did you read the thread? It was installer error. And yes....I know this question was posted years ago....I'm replying b/c it seems as if some people didn't read that the OP installed the lug nuts backwards.
Okay yeah so I've already had spacers for a few months; they did fine. I no longer run them because I don't need to with my current wheel set up but I realize it was installer error. Thanks for your concern.
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This happened to a buddy of mine on his Canyon. Wheel completely sheared away from the hub and it was the spacer. I think if you don't upgrade to the correct hub with linger bearings this is going to happen. I'm staying away from this for awhile
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The studs sheared or the wheel bearing seperated? I find it hard to believe the bearing failed so suddenly without signs before hand.
Someone mention torquing the wheels and adapters correctly, this is critical as bolts and studs are designed for a certain amount of elasticity. Once you go beyond that range, they become plastic and and stretch out but can no longer "Spring Back" and thus they will tend to break more easily. This is why you see lots of broken studs on wheels because people typically throw wheels on with impact guns and over torque the wheel nuts.
A good quick explaination of what I am saying:
http://www.enerpac.com/en-us/bolting-theory
So if I had wheels installed at a tire shop (with an air gun) then drive home and re-torque to spec, would I still have a problem because the bolts have already been stretched?
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Yes if the bolts were over tightened at the wheel shop. Keep in mind that even a cheapo 1/2" Impact can easily torque a wheel nut to over 100ft.lbs, the 4Runners are about 83ft.lbs if I remember, 90ft.lbs is probably the max I'd push it if you don't trust the factory numbers.
The point is that once the bolt is stretched/torqued beyond it's "Elastic" state, it becomes "Plastic" and won't return to it's original form as easily. This is sometimes obvious and other times something that you'd only see if you measured with a micrometer. A example of this is headbolts, most FSMs for all makes has you measuring the bolt at a couple points to verify it is within spec and reusable (if they call to reuse them) because of this very reason.
Now, if in your case the wheel shop used a torque stick to tighten the wheels; then most likely unless they really hammered on it, it should be in the ballpark. But even Torque Sticks are not as accurate as a Torque Wrench and if you're a twit you can over tighten with them.
Pretty sure Discount Tire doesn't use torque sticks.
Mine in Lakewood does.
or just dont be a hack POS installer. That solves the issues.I would never run spacers on our 4runners. Aftermarket wheels for our tricks are fairly cheap compared to the BMW world I am used to.
Plus spacers in some countries are illegal to use, i.e. Australia where it is the 4x4 capital of the world IMO.
Tire companies will not touch your vehicle also if you have wheel spacers here in California, American Tire Company, etc.
Safety alone, fork up the $800 and get some aftermarket wheels with better offset. Sell your old OEM wheels for $400 on CL, bam only $400 for a new set of wheels. Small price to pay for safely.