Beach Driveing - Wheel Quality & Tire Size?

J

jjdbike

New member
Hi folks
I have a 2011 SR5 w/a 2 1/2” & 2” spring & shock lift (no spacers), diff drop & total chaos uniball UCAs. Now of course my tires & wheels look too small. So im change rims and tires. I don’t like the looks of my stock rims. Also want a little wider to accomdate larger tire size. I’d like a little taller & wider for a tad more ground clearance and bigger foot-pring to float on the soft sand. These are salty sand beaches so rust/corrosion are also a concern.
My two questions are:
1. Are there significant diferances in quality of after market rims or are they all pretty good? Ther are big differances in prices (e.g. $140 for American Racing - $250 for Fuel) and I’m wondering is one stronger and more rust resistant than the other? Also, for driving aired down, as low as 10 PSI, do I need to be concerned about the lip of the rim or are they all pretty much the same?
2. Not oly will I be getting a widder rim (from stock 7” to aftermarket 8”) I think I’ll go from my stock 265/70/17 to 275/70/17 but am also considering going to 285’s. I know w/ the 285’s I’ll need to move the wheel well guard and cut the mud flaps. Seeing that I’ll be driving so aired down, will rubbing be more of a concern (i.e. when aired down) and should I therefore stick w/ the 275, perhaps 7 1/2 “ rim vs 8"?
Opinions and experiences are greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
JD
 
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For beach or sand I would look at BFGoodrich KO2 34x10.50R17D. Great footprint when aired down. .1 inches wider than stock 265's. Spec'd at 33.5" diameter but once mounted are closer to 33.2. Great looking tall tire that has a much longer footprint when aired down than stock.
 
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95% of my offload driving is beach driving. I have only taken the 4runner onto the beach once since I only got it 6 months ago but will be hitting the beach hard once summer rolls in. I have been driving my heavier land cruiser with 33x10.5 BFG KOs (equivalent to 255/80/17) and aired down to 18psi (C rated tires) the truck just floats across the sand.

When driving on the sand it is all about technique. Know what you are doing and your truck will do fine in stock form. As far as salt and corrosion... Take care of your truck, rinse it off afterwards and you have nothing to worry about.

4HI, don't spin the tires, and momentum is your friend. I would say 15 PSI is as low as you would need to go, no need to go lower and have to worry about popping the tire off the rim.
 
bjohnston115 said:
4HI, don't spin the tires, and momentum is your friend. I would say 15 PSI is as low as you would need to go, no need to go lower and have to worry about popping the tire off the rim.
Click to expand...

:iagree:

Some wheel spin is good to keep your momentum, but don't let it dig in. Let off when you feel it going down.

I have run a lot on soft dunes with my OEM Dunlops aired down to 15 with no problems. Even pulled out a Raptor on one trip and an old CJ.

I now have a set of Toyo Open Country AT2 265 size and I expect them to do way better.

Going to 285 always looks good on our 4Runners and you already have the lift. Pick some good 285 ATs and have fun.
 
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I have the Toyo Rts 285s on my 4runner. went to the beach a while back, they did great aired up and even better aired down to 20psi if i remember right thats what i went down to. Pictures are them aired up. only aired down to pull my cousin out, didnt get pictures.



 
Since you don't live at the beach I wouldn't worry about corrosion. Just be sure to give the runner a good wash and rinse the undercarriage at a power washer with the high pressure soap rinse. Honestly any tire aired down does well for beach driving. My second home was Cape Hatteras growing up and I ran everything from stock rubber to MT's and never had issues. I usually go with 15 PSI. The biggest thing with beach driving is if you start to feel your tires digging stop slowly and air down some more. Ive seen so many stucks happen because people felt the tires dig and they gave it more gas and then ended up stuck. Low PSI and smart driving is key for beach driving.
 
Oh for craps sake, dude, this is getting old.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/217989-tires-how-big-w-out-vioding-warente.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/216436-lifted-police-attention.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/218013-tires-how-big-w-out-voiding-warente.html (Yes, he opened the same thread twice)
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/218146-will-lighter-rims-mpg.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/218299-beach-driveing-wheel-quality-tire-size.html

You obviously aren't going to be happy until you have bigger wheels and tires so quit farting around and just do it, will you? So we can get on to whatever mall-crawler mod you're going to obsess over next?
 
 
brian0128 said:
For beach or sand I would look at BFGoodrich KO2 34x10.50R17D. Great footprint when aired down. .1 inches wider than stock 265's. Spec'd at 33.5" diameter but once mounted are closer to 33.2. Great looking tall tire that has a much longer footprint when aired down than stock.
Click to expand...
I will look into the KO2 34x10.50R17D, although I’m concerned because everything I’ve read here on this forum says that 33” is max recomended for our gearing. Even though it not much over, I don’t know if I want to push it to the max of the limit.

Simpleman74 said:
take a read of this....

Expeditions West: Tire Selection for Expedition Travel
Click to expand...

Wow man, very informative read there. Thanks a lot!

BobsTrail said:
:iagree:

Some wheel spin is good to keep your momentum, but don't let it dig in. Let off when you feel it going down.

I have run a lot on soft dunes with my OEM Dunlops aired down to 15 with no problems. Even pulled out a Raptor on one trip and an old CJ.

I now have a set of Toyo Open Country AT2 265 size and I expect them to do way better.

Going to 285 always looks good on our 4Runners and you already have the lift. Pick some good 285 ATs and have fun.
Click to expand...

Thanks you guys, I’ll also check out the Toyo’s. I haven’t noticed these at my local retaiers. Yes I’ve driven on the sand a bit & I agree that most 4x4’s will work ok w/ good technich which I agree takes a smooth foot (on gas & breaks), maintaining momentum and airing down. While I do like the way larger tires look, I’m also trying to find the sweet spot in performance on road, on trails & the beach.
I’m NOT a mall crawler but am OCD. I apologuize for my ignorance and admitted OCD. I certainly never intended to offend or annoy anyone here. I just figured if someone didn’t like a post for what ever reason (as long as it wasn’t offensive or break any rules) folks could simply not reply?
Thanks again for your help, you folks have knowledge and expereince that dosen’t exsist eleswhere!
JD
 
285/70/17 Nitto Trail Grapplers did just fine.

26427435281_bf2fc56f9d_b.jpg
 
Simpleman74 said:
take a read of this....

Expeditions West: Tire Selection for Expedition Travel
Click to expand...

I would be careful relying on this. It's just one person's opinion. Some of the "science" is simply wrong. Tire selection depends on use. If your medium is sand/snow/soft terrain - as tall and wide as you can afford. If it's rocks, durable sticky tires are ideal. If you're going long distances on the highway - taller narrow tires might be a good choice for efficiency reasons.
 
Jetboy said:
I would be careful relying on this. It's just one person's opinion. Some of the "science" is simply wrong. Tire selection depends on use. If your medium is sand/snow/soft terrain - as tall and wide as you can afford. If it's rocks, durable sticky tires are ideal. If you're going long distances on the highway - taller narrow tires might be a good choice for efficiency reasons.
Click to expand...
it wasn't posted to be the holy grail it is a very good resource for tire selection. What is "wrong"? Just saying it is wrong doesn't make it so. If you have "science" to refute his data or to support yours, post it up so we can all get a better understanding.
 
Simpleman74 said:
it wasn't posted to be the holy grail it is a very good resource for tire selection. What is "wrong"? Just saying it is wrong doesn't make it so. If you have "science" to refute his data or to support yours, post it up so we can all get a better understanding.
Click to expand...

If you haven't been around offroading long, you might be new to this article. It's been passed around for a long time. Don't take it personally. It's just nothing more than one person's opinion.

As far as his analysis, mechanical keying is the first obvious one. The wide tire will be "keying" more area. The relative friction can't be predicted to be greater or less. If you'll notice he doesn't use sipped tires. Cutting your tires and siping them is a basic first step to improve mechanical keying. Additionally if you have wide tires and for some unknown reason you decide you believe that nonsense and you are going to maximize your traction - you'd run the max tire psi and minimize your footprint. This entire line of argument is directly antithetical to lowering ground pressure by lowering tire air pressure.

He says "The wider the tire, the less the rubber will deform to the surface irregularity given the same vertical pressure. The greater the deformation, the greater the tires resistance to shearing forces (spinning). This is the strongest argument to using a narrower tire. " <- that assumes you would run wider tires at the same air pressure. That's ridiculous. On my trail rig I regularly run 5psi. Try running 5psi in a 80 aspect ratio tire. His strongest argument is based on a nonsensical proposition.

All of his argument regarding airing down are also nonsense. Yes a taller tire will have lower ground pressure aired down - BUT what he forgets to mention is that tall and wide are not mutually exclusive. A tall AND wide tire will have lower ground pressure than a tall narrow tire.

Tall, hard, narrow tires have the benefit of low rolling resistance. That's the strongest argument for them. Better fuel economy/more comfortable lower rpm driving if you can drive in a different gear etc. Tall narrow tires might work nicely for overland type vehicles in many cases, but it's not because they offer superior traction. There's a reason you don't ride a road bike on the beach - even aired down.
 
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jjdbike said:
Hi folks

I have a 2011 SR5 w/a 2 1/2” & 2” spring & shock lift (no spacers), diff drop & total chaos uniball UCAs. Now of course my tires & wheels look too small. So im change rims and tires. I don’t like the looks of my stock rims. Also want a little wider to accomdate larger tire size. I’d like a little taller & wider for a tad more ground clearance and bigger foot-pring to float on the soft sand. These are salty sand beaches so rust/corrosion are also a concern.

My two questions are:

1. Are there significant diferances in quality of after market rims or are they all pretty good? Ther are big differances in prices (e.g. $140 for American Racing - $250 for Fuel) and I’m wondering is one stronger and more rust resistant than the other? Also, for driving aired down, as low as 10 PSI, do I need to be concerned about the lip of the rim or are they all pretty much the same?

2. Not oly will I be getting a widder rim (from stock 7” to aftermarket 8”) I think I’ll go from my stock 265/70/17 to 275/70/17 but am also considering going to 285’s. I know w/ the 285’s I’ll need to move the wheel well guard and cut the mud flaps. Seeing that I’ll be driving so aired down, will rubbing be more of a concern (i.e. when aired down) and should I therefore stick w/ the 275, perhaps 7 1/2 “ rim vs 8"?

Opinions and experiences are greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

JD
Click to expand...



I plan on doing some beach driving this summer. I'm in the northeast. I initially was worried about salt corrosion but they put so much salt on the roads here during the winter and I've never had an issue with salt corrosion. I'm sure my vehicles get exposed to 10 times the amount of salt over the course of one New England winter as they will from a dozen beach drives this summer.

That being said...ill prob hose her down and spray the undercarriage after a beach drive.
 
Redsoxx1918 said:
I plan on doing some beach driving this summer. I'm in the northeast. I initially was worried about salt corrosion but they put so much salt on the roads here during the winter and I've never had an issue with salt corrosion. I'm sure my vehicles get exposed to 10 times the amount of salt over the course of one New England winter as they will from a dozen beach drives this summer.

That being said...ill prob hose her down and spray the undercarriage after a beach drive.
Click to expand...
I
I have been driving on the beach for decades at Cape Hatteras and salt is not a real problem unless you leave wet sand on the undercarriage. Hose it off, particularly from the brakes. Stuck calipers can result if not done. I just generally buy the cheapest drive thru car wash that gives the undercarriage wash and go thru twice. Never a big problem with at least 5 different vehicles, 3 being 4runners. Oh and don't do the Jeep ad thing of making rooster tails in the surf.
 
Jetboy said:
If you haven't been around offroading long, you might be new to this article. It's been passed around for a long time. Don't take it personally. It's just nothing more than one person's opinion.

As far as his analysis, mechanical keying is the first obvious one. The wide tire will be "keying" more area. The relative friction can't be predicted to be greater or less. If you'll notice he doesn't use sipped tires. Cutting your tires and siping them is a basic first step to improve mechanical keying. Additionally if you have wide tires and for some unknown reason you decide you believe that nonsense and you are going to maximize your traction - you'd run the max tire psi and minimize your footprint. This entire line of argument is directly antithetical to lowering ground pressure by lowering tire air pressure.

He says "The wider the tire, the less the rubber will deform to the surface irregularity given the same vertical pressure. The greater the deformation, the greater the tires resistance to shearing forces (spinning). This is the strongest argument to using a narrower tire. " <- that assumes you would run wider tires at the same air pressure. That's ridiculous. On my trail rig I regularly run 5psi. Try running 5psi in a 80 aspect ratio tire. His strongest argument is based on a nonsensical proposition.

All of his argument regarding airing down are also nonsense. Yes a taller tire will have lower ground pressure aired down - BUT what he forgets to mention is that tall and wide are not mutually exclusive. A tall AND wide tire will have lower ground pressure than a tall narrow tire.

Tall, hard, narrow tires have the benefit of low rolling resistance. That's the strongest argument for them. Better fuel economy/more comfortable lower rpm driving if you can drive in a different gear etc. Tall narrow tires might work nicely for overland type vehicles in many cases, but it's not because they offer superior traction. There's a reason you don't ride a road bike on the beach - even aired down.
Click to expand...


One thing to keep in mind with very low pressure like 5 psi is that the rim seal is very weak so you want to be careful of sharp turns, especially in deep ruts. Also if spinning and the tread grabs, the weak seal can allow the rim to turn inside the tire, breaking the seal and even causing seal damage. I've seen both of these happen to folks. One damaged the seal on 2 tires, trying to tow another vehicle out of the sand, spinning furiously, then smelling rubber burning, but kept going, thinking it was the tread smoking on the sand. Spare obviously no help and tow off the beach was costly.
 
Jetboy said:
If you haven't been around offroading long, you might be new to this article. It's been passed around for a long time. Don't take it personally. It's just nothing more than one person's opinion.

As far as his analysis, mechanical keying is the first obvious one. The wide tire will be "keying" more area. The relative friction can't be predicted to be greater or less. If you'll notice he doesn't use sipped tires. Cutting your tires and siping them is a basic first step to improve mechanical keying. Additionally if you have wide tires and for some unknown reason you decide you believe that nonsense and you are going to maximize your traction - you'd run the max tire psi and minimize your footprint. This entire line of argument is directly antithetical to lowering ground pressure by lowering tire air pressure.

He says "The wider the tire, the less the rubber will deform to the surface irregularity given the same vertical pressure. The greater the deformation, the greater the tires resistance to shearing forces (spinning). This is the strongest argument to using a narrower tire. " <- that assumes you would run wider tires at the same air pressure. That's ridiculous. On my trail rig I regularly run 5psi. Try running 5psi in a 80 aspect ratio tire. His strongest argument is based on a nonsensical proposition.

All of his argument regarding airing down are also nonsense. Yes a taller tire will have lower ground pressure aired down - BUT what he forgets to mention is that tall and wide are not mutually exclusive. A tall AND wide tire will have lower ground pressure than a tall narrow tire.

Tall, hard, narrow tires have the benefit of low rolling resistance. That's the strongest argument for them. Better fuel economy/more comfortable lower rpm driving if you can drive in a different gear etc. Tall narrow tires might work nicely for overland type vehicles in many cases, but it's not because they offer superior traction. There's a reason you don't ride a road bike on the beach - even aired down.
Click to expand...


Agree and for airing down, sidewall height is a consideration, for sand driving. You want good sidewall height to allow "ballooning" the tire without causing the rim seal to be compromised. Low profile tires won't cut it. And hard tires tend to push down into the sand, rather than "float" over it. BTW I once saw a guy with run flats try the sand. Lots of chuckles.
 
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