Best way to prevent water spots after car wash
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scoobydann
New member
I have hard water here and this is what I do.
a) dont wash in the sun (obviously)
2)I use 2 good microfiber towels. one large and one medium. Get the majority of the water with towel a and immediately after use towel b to wipe the streaks. rinse towel a often
c)some people actually use a blower to blow most of the water off and go after it with a towel.
ps. you get what you pay for in mocrofiber towels.
a) dont wash in the sun (obviously)
2)I use 2 good microfiber towels. one large and one medium. Get the majority of the water with towel a and immediately after use towel b to wipe the streaks. rinse towel a often
c)some people actually use a blower to blow most of the water off and go after it with a towel.
ps. you get what you pay for in mocrofiber towels.
cfranck1
New member
Usually the tunnel car washes have a "Drying Agent" they put on, on your way out of the tunnel.
cfranck1
New member
Usually not. That stuff comes in 55 gal drums from the supplier.
I think Meguiars has a spray wax while car is wet product. Just spray it of a freshly washed car and wipe off. Not positive, but I sure someone will know more.
Just wipe car down or blow it off after you wash it..
Throwing Matches
New member
If you just let the water air dry, you are likely to get water spots. Properly drying your vehicle is important if you want it to look it's best. You can get a super absorbant "waffle weave" micro fiber towel from most auto parts stores, these work great and won't leave any kind of fine scratches on your paint. You can also use a silicone water blade to get most of the water off and finish it off with a chamois cloth.
I've been told the old fashion leather chamios is NOT something we should be using. The reason being any grit that gets on it will scratch the paint. Instead use a good quality waffle weave microfiber towel. Microfiber will surround and hold any grit so it doesn't scratch the paint.
That being said what I've found works best with the least work is my final rinse is done without any kind of spray nozzle on the hose. I just let the water pour naturally out of the end of the hose. The water sheets and rolls off. Makes drying easier as well since you aren't chasing a million little drops of water. Of course I have to dry it immediately with a large waffle weave microfiber towels working fast using both hands.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtoWk9thSEI&feature=related
That being said what I've found works best with the least work is my final rinse is done without any kind of spray nozzle on the hose. I just let the water pour naturally out of the end of the hose. The water sheets and rolls off. Makes drying easier as well since you aren't chasing a million little drops of water. Of course I have to dry it immediately with a large waffle weave microfiber towels working fast using both hands.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtoWk9thSEI&feature=related
Last edited:
JohnnyT
New member
The following sites sell great detailing products and offer great advise and information on how to properly care for your truck inside and out......
Www.detailed image.com
Www.detailers domain.com
We Are Car Care -- Car Wax, Car Polish, Auto Detailing Supplies, Car Buffers & Car Accessories Store
don't get detailing products from auto parts stores. These sites offer the best quality materials at better prices and regularly run sales and specials.
That's my advise and I detail cars as a hobby.
Www.detailed image.com
Www.detailers domain.com
We Are Car Care -- Car Wax, Car Polish, Auto Detailing Supplies, Car Buffers & Car Accessories Store
don't get detailing products from auto parts stores. These sites offer the best quality materials at better prices and regularly run sales and specials.
That's my advise and I detail cars as a hobby.
Uneek
Super Moderator
Sounds like hard water. You can get a water softner, but they're expensive when to comes to replacing the de-ionizing agents.
A cheaper alternative would be getting that Mr. Clean auto dry or whatever it's called. Don't use the soap with it, but just get it for the filter cartridge and use the rinse mode for the final hose down.
A cheaper alternative would be getting that Mr. Clean auto dry or whatever it's called. Don't use the soap with it, but just get it for the filter cartridge and use the rinse mode for the final hose down.
A good LSP helps but I also use multiple (6-7) large waffle weave mf and blot dry the whole car. I've heard the philosophy before that you have to accept the fact that anytime you touch the car there's very well a chance you're micro marring the paint, especially with a soft black like GMs or all Honda paints.
Blot drying imo greatly reduces that risk, and afterwards I use a thick plush mf with something like FK425 (or any other good quick detailer really) for final wipedown which to help further reduce that risk.
Blot drying imo greatly reduces that risk, and afterwards I use a thick plush mf with something like FK425 (or any other good quick detailer really) for final wipedown which to help further reduce that risk.
Turn_down
New member
Just FYI guys, it's not a drying agent that allows car washes to give you a spot free rinse. It's reverse osmosis (RO).
Basically, water has minerals in it. You can't get away from that fact. When the final rinse is applied, then evaporates, the minerals are left behind. Those are the spots you see. It doesn't matter if it's hard or soft water. Yes, hard water is worse, but soft water still contains minerals.
The only way around it is to get the minerals out of the water. That's what a RO system does. It filters the water (so to speak) to get rid of the minerals.
How do I know? I've been designing and building car washes (and lube centers) for the last 17 years. It's what I do. lol
Basically, water has minerals in it. You can't get away from that fact. When the final rinse is applied, then evaporates, the minerals are left behind. Those are the spots you see. It doesn't matter if it's hard or soft water. Yes, hard water is worse, but soft water still contains minerals.
The only way around it is to get the minerals out of the water. That's what a RO system does. It filters the water (so to speak) to get rid of the minerals.
How do I know? I've been designing and building car washes (and lube centers) for the last 17 years. It's what I do. lol
004Gunner
New member
I recently posted about using distilled water in a spray bottle in place of a spray detailer. Once the car is dry (I let it air dry), I spray on distilled water and wipe it dry with microfiber cloths. It's the best technique by far and it works even if the body panels are hot and/or in direct sunlight. Distilled water is less than a dollar a gallon so it's very cheap too. It leaves me with a very smooth, water spot free shine.
My runner is black so if it works for me, then it should work well for everyone. Try it out :cheers:
My runner is black so if it works for me, then it should work well for everyone. Try it out :cheers:
scenic-seeker
New member
Gotta agree. I use my 6.5hp wet/dry "Shop Vac" blower! Wash her down, keep her wet, back into the garage and blow dry. The little water that remains is not enough to wring out your drying rag. And in cold weather prevents freeze ups.
Dylan
Member
I worked at Waterway Car Wash for a few yearsl. The biggest mistake people make when "hand washing" their vehicle is not bringing a towel or chamois with them to dry it off after.
Preferably, dry it in the shade....time will be more on your side. Also, having a separate towel for windows is a must, two different surfaces (metal body/glass window) attract and hold dirt and smudges differently. Also, having a towel be a little damp is a good thing when drying, since water is polarized the dampness will help attract the water off surface a little better. Sometimes, when you buy a new towel that is completely dry it will just push the water around and create streaks.
If you're up for spending 12-15 bucks, go find a California Dry Blade at your auto parts store...they're pretty good at eliminating water spots....and you don't need to dry as much.
Preferably, dry it in the shade....time will be more on your side. Also, having a separate towel for windows is a must, two different surfaces (metal body/glass window) attract and hold dirt and smudges differently. Also, having a towel be a little damp is a good thing when drying, since water is polarized the dampness will help attract the water off surface a little better. Sometimes, when you buy a new towel that is completely dry it will just push the water around and create streaks.
If you're up for spending 12-15 bucks, go find a California Dry Blade at your auto parts store...they're pretty good at eliminating water spots....and you don't need to dry as much.
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