Better Late Than Never Build Thread

I try to verify pressure as all mine are aluminum, not original spares. So every 5 to 10k miles I drop it down and verify it good psi. :)



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Anyone have a habit of checking their spare for air pressure? I had honestly forgotten all about it and mine was dead flat. Original tire from 2002, I may need to look at finding a used "newer" tire for that just in case scenario.

spare_1.jpg


spare_2.jpg

But can we just talk about how CLEAN that spare wheel is?! Good grief dude! Lol
 
It easy to keep things nice living where [MENTION=8729]Speedy[/MENTION] n I do, I'm +- 4 hr SSW.
Mine is untouched showing a bit of rust bubbles around hub opening.

As far as finding a newer used spare, do you really need to?

What ever gives you the fuzzy's, Mine are just there dark corner of garage mostly.
3rd Gens 400k+ plus miles 23 yrs never needed it, 10 ply MT's or ATs :)
Out of state wheeling see's light of day, it way down my list.
 
I'm more likely to pick up a nail and get a flat than anything. Wouldn't want my wife driving very far on a 20 year old tire.
 
Spec sheet printed, new order inventory check, what/how many goes where with torque spec, tools at hand.
I call that ready mid TN shouldn't have problems getting old stuff off.
 
Spec sheet printed, new order inventory check, what/how many goes where with torque spec, tools at hand.
I call that ready mid TN shouldn't have problems getting old stuff off.

The hitch bolts and rear bumper area were my biggest concerns, soaked them in Liquid Wrench and so far so good.
 
PBblaster liqwrench all you need our neck of the woods most jobs in no problem category.
Current 01 charcoal cannister mounting bolt head broke off, only fubar in a long time.
 
I don't see you having issues. Me, on the other hand, I need induction bolt heaters for everything underneath on the chassis...lol. especially on those 10mm , 12mm heads.



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PBblaster liqwrench all you need our neck of the woods most jobs in no problem category.

Current 01 charcoal cannister mounting bolt head broke off, only fubar in a long time.
Those are sketchy, kinda bad location for those bolts.

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[MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION], gona blame it on doing a blind spray of PB :) Topside of those nuts like trying to see top shock nut.
Has easy access for drill n tap.
 
[MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION], gona blame it on doing a blind spray of PB :) Topside of those nuts like trying to see top shock nut.
Has easy access for drill n tap.

I snapped the one on the charcoal canister that was in the floor support channels. I just tack it with my welder..lol... That was pre lift and in 2016 or 2017..:D
 
Been busy. Disassembly complete and parts cleanup and painting is in process. I'll be glad when I'm done here. Next up is the actual frame itself.

Inside the rear bumper is about the only thing that had any rust to speak of. Wire wheeled that real good and hit it with some Rust Reformer and after it dried 24 hours top coated with some Rustoleum Satin. I may end up ditching the chrome but will shore it up for now. I'd like to get some paintable bumpers and shoot them to match the wheels.

Pressure washer has been getting a work out.

4r_disassembly.jpg


rust_rear_bumper.jpg


cleaned_bumper_parts.jpg


restored_z_bar.jpg


chassis_parts.jpg


painting_brackets.jpg
 
Last edited:
Anyone have a habit of checking their spare for air pressure? I had honestly forgotten all about it and mine was dead flat. Original tire from 2002, I may need to look at finding a used "newer" tire for that just in case scenario.
Not so great with that habit, but I have a pump with me basically every time I'm out of cell/AAA range...

Swap out the best of your previous set of tires to the spare when you get new tires - that's the easiest way to keep the spare reasonably fresh - and its free! It doesn't need a lot of tread, you just want it to be safe enough to drive on.

I also changed over to a used but pretty rough aluminum wheel (early Tundra / late 1st gen Tacoma 16") to avoid any rust and age issues.

-Charlie
 
About ready to start re-assembly. Finishing up with some 400 grit wet sanding and a light polish on the sport skid plate to remove years of oxidation.

I don't want it shiny, just satin like it was originally and so far so good. Not too hard to clean it up.

sport_skid_restore.jpg
 
Not so great with that habit, but I have a pump with me basically every time I'm out of cell/AAA range...



Swap out the best of your previous set of tires to the spare when you get new tires - that's the easiest way to keep the spare reasonably fresh - and its free! It doesn't need a lot of tread, you just want it to be safe enough to drive on.



I also changed over to a used but pretty rough aluminum wheel (early Tundra / late 1st gen Tacoma 16") to avoid any rust and age issues.



-Charlie
They do still oxidize... just not as fast. I use the 16 inch 4 runner aluminum rims as my spares. I had 1 or 2 with the original spares still on them. I believe I junked them due to steel safety concerns. As those rims were very rough..

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