Better Late Than Never Build Thread

[JoeT4R]

It depends on what you have done, but since I started playing around on their website and signed up for "offers" I've gotten emails about sales, 0% financing, etc.



Looks like a single color leather two row is $1800 which includes install. They have a network of installers based on zip code. I think one of the offers I got was $400 off that. Start doing 2 colors and it goes up $200 and heated seats are expensive but I'm definitely doing it. Will prob skip cooled seats (which they offer). I have that in my Hellcat and it's just "OK" but not worth what they want to add that feature.

For this kind of price, I certainly hope that these are new seats, foam, etc altogether and not just leather covers that wrap over your existing foam. That is a steep price!

I like both options you listed. Either or I think would look phenomenal, Speedy.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

 

[Speedy]

For this kind of price, I certainly hope that these are new seats, foam, etc altogether and not just leather covers that wrap over your existing foam. That is a steep price!

I like both options you listed. Either or I think would look phenomenal, Speedy.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

You buy the Katzskins leather seat covers and installation is included in the price. I asked the upholsterer about the foam, and he said they repair/replace any that is damaged or worn as part of the install and there's no additional charge. I'm not sure if that's the case everywhere or just something he does.

I want heated seats and they're $300 EACH. I asked about just getting a heated sit kit and supplying it, but the upholsterer told me the install fee would make it a wash.

For custom leather seats installed the price seems pretty good to me. The leather seat option on a Hellcat is almost $4,000 by comparison.

If these were still $2500 cars I might not bother but I'm getting $15K - $18K offers for mine. This is also a restoration, not a repair, project for me. I've had this truck for over 20 years and the only repair I've had to make is one oxygen sensor ($70 I think) so I can justify spending a few bucks on it. It's way cheaper than buying a new car and I don't care for any current SUVs anyway.

I'm getting bids on the paint job now as well. I'm expecting that to be pricey since I'm wanting to do a color change. I'm gonna have to think on that one though. Probably $10K.

 

[brillo_76]

You don't paint and do the body work yourself?

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

 

[Speedy]

You don't paint and do the body work yourself?

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

No, I don't have a place to do that properly with filtered air etc. Small projects no biggie but not painting a whole car. I'm probably not skilled enough to do a metallic without getting tiger stripes too.

My buddy runs a body shop and says he'll paint it if I'll disassemble. That was tempting but honestly I'd rather it be painted by someone I don't have a relationship with to avoid any issues.

 

[brillo_76]

Ok. I get it... We just do our own...

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

 

[Speedy]

Ok. I get it... We just do our own...

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

If it was a farm truck I'd paint it in my driveway lol.

 

[brillo_76]

If it was a farm truck I'd paint it in my driveway lol.

We are actually practicing on the Tacoma, Camry and the 4 runners to be good enough to paint our stuff. Just to gain the skills to do it. I learned body work from a master of it.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

 

[Speedy]

I'm sort of an odd ball compared to most I talk to. I actually enjoy bodywork/paint and wiring too. Something about the detail of it suits me.

I found a local place that would mix up "ready to shoot" paint as well as the clear and repaired an old Honda Accord a few years ago after a deer incident. Was good as new when I was done and a good learning experience. That car was white so a super easy color to spray. I was quoted like $1200 to fix it and I did it myself for about $250 including the paint gun. That was pretty satisfying.

I'm looking to do Inferno Orange Metallic on the 4Runner and the metallics require a bit of experience and finesse to get right, something I don't have enough of for that.

 

[brillo_76]

Some are 3 stages too. You can use scratches from sanding to make the metallic flake kind of stand up under the clear in those scratches.



Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

 

[Speedy]

I used to do a complete detail on the o'l 4Runner at least once a year but with other vehicles joining the stable it sorta got left behind. After getting the valve cover gaskets all squared away, I thought I might have a rear main seal leak. I decided to do a full detail of the engine bay and underneath so I could see what's what. Using the right technique it's actually easier than I remember. Bonus I tried some dye on the hood liner and it worked great.

Video in 3rd post.

Next up, I gotta see if I can save my tow hitch.

Dirty:

Clean:

 

[Speedy]

Decided to recondition the skid plates while they were off for the engine detail. Fixed one small dent and noticed a small rusty spot in the back corner of the bigger one. Cleaned all that up, hit it with some rust reformer, paint, and then put some FIPG around the seam to seal it up. I think water was collecting between the two stamped pieces.

New tow hitch hardware showed up I went with 10.9 grade. I hope I can get the factory bolts out without too much trouble or destroying the Z brackets. I'm a little worried what it's gonna look like in the frame after 21 years. I've started soaking the bolts in Liquid Wrench.

 

[brillo_76]

I bet they look better then some of the ones I pulled out.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

 

[Speedy]

I bet they look better then some of the ones I pulled out.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

I bet you're right. I'm gonna hope for the best. I don't remember ever having the hitch off the truck.

 

[brillo_76]

I bet you're right. I'm gonna hope for the best. I don't remember ever having the hitch off the truck.

I pull them when I work on the Frames. As it makes it easier. I expect yours to come right off...

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

 

[RodrickHeffley]

I'd like to see it too. I'm planning on swapping in a 2003 tundra steering wheel with the controls but most of them I can find are gray. I found a cover like yours but for the tundra so let us know how it looks, if it fits well i'll probably get the same one

cover installed

 

[Speedy]

Looks nice and tight like it came that way. I'm gonna have some leather glue on hand for any edges that look like they wanna stick up.

How was the install? Mine's here and sitting in the tool box for when I move on to the interior.

 

[Speedy]

I'm gonna black out the badges. Searching around I've found a few I can buy blacked out, but mine are in good shape and I figure I can etch prime and paint them satin black.

How are folks reattaching them to the truck? I know 3M double sided tape but are you tediously carving it to match the badge, are some precut available, special machine at some place?

Also what about license plate molding? Mine's chrome and chrome's gotta go.

 

[JoeT4R]

I'm gonna black out the badges. Searching around I've found a few I can buy blacked out, but mine are in good shape and I figure I can etch prime and paint them satin black.

How are folks reattaching them to the truck? I know 3M double sided tape but are you tediously carving it to match the badge, are some precut available, special machine at some place?

Also what about license plate molding? Mine's chrome and chrome's gotta go.

So I will say this from experience, if your attention to detail and OCD can handle it, I'd recommend not removing the badges. For multiple reasons. I'd suggest the plasti-dip method and just tape off the sides from any potential over spray.

License plate molding can be replaced and is probably worth more of your time, especially with the age of it. I just had to replace mine earlier this year due to severe cracking. Mine was the grey one but I replaced it with a chrome one. It doesn't look too bad and I'm not big on chrome. The job can be a pain, though, but more than likely worth it if your bezel is cracked and everything.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

 

[RodrickHeffley]

Looks nice and tight like it came that way. I'm gonna have some leather glue on hand for any edges that look like they wanna stick up.

How was the install? Mine's here and sitting in the tool box for when I move on to the interior.

Took me a few hours, once I got the learning hurdle over with it got easier

 

[Speedy]

So I will say this from experience, if your attention to detail and OCD can handle it, I'd recommend not removing the badges. For multiple reasons. I'd suggest the plasti-dip method and just tape off the sides from any potential over spray.

License plate molding can be replaced and is probably worth more of your time, especially with the age of it. I just had to replace mine earlier this year due to severe cracking. Mine was the grey one but I replaced it with a chrome one. It doesn't look too bad and I'm not big on chrome. The job can be a pain, though, but more than likely worth it if your bezel is cracked and everything.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

If I end up getting it painted the badges will have to come off. I've been checking around and finding a place that'll do a full paint job is more difficult than I expected it to be. Most just wanna do repairs through insurance.

Took me a few hours, once I got the learning hurdle over with it got easier

Good to know. I've done one before but been a long time. My leather console cover is here as well, gonna try to knock these out here soon. I did run in to an unexpected problem. I checked the staples used for the console cover and they're 71 Series 3mm staples. That's a very specific staple that takes a specific staple gun. May require a trip to the upholsterer rather than spend money on a stapler I'll use one time.