riceandpho
Elite Member
how are u enjoying the retrofit?
Bixenon retros on 2005 Limited
- Thread starter CookieRoe
- Start date
CookieRoe
Senior Member
Updated ballast and wire harness
Well, after my fried ECU and 2 main wire harnesses fiasco, my retros are back in action. I was hesitant and very gun shy about hooking my retros up, but I got the nads to do it. Besides, it was cheaper than getting all new OEM headlights. Anyway, I changed the ballast to Densos and wire harness to JDMs. They fire up faster and are said to be more robust and longer lasting. I can live with that!
Just wanted to share where I installed my ballasts:
First: Passenger Side.
Closer look: Right up against the engine bay wall. Note: Two green JDM relays.
Double side 3M tape is your friend.
Drivers Side:
As you can see, I put the 3M tape right up against the side of the headlight assembly.
Nice and neat away from harm. Because I didn't remove the front bumper, this was the best place (IMO) to mount. Note: Toyota battery to the left.
RICE: I love them, I'm glad I didn't abandon the retros. I'll post pics and maybe a video on the difference between them (TL vs. RX projectors). Give me time.......
Well, after my fried ECU and 2 main wire harnesses fiasco, my retros are back in action. I was hesitant and very gun shy about hooking my retros up, but I got the nads to do it. Besides, it was cheaper than getting all new OEM headlights. Anyway, I changed the ballast to Densos and wire harness to JDMs. They fire up faster and are said to be more robust and longer lasting. I can live with that!
Just wanted to share where I installed my ballasts:
First: Passenger Side.
Closer look: Right up against the engine bay wall. Note: Two green JDM relays.
Double side 3M tape is your friend.
Drivers Side:
As you can see, I put the 3M tape right up against the side of the headlight assembly.
Nice and neat away from harm. Because I didn't remove the front bumper, this was the best place (IMO) to mount. Note: Toyota battery to the left.
RICE: I love them, I'm glad I didn't abandon the retros. I'll post pics and maybe a video on the difference between them (TL vs. RX projectors). Give me time.......
riceandpho
Elite Member
zip tie the ballast, the double sided tape wont hold for that long in the engine compartment cause of heat. how much did the ballast costed? i still like 5five ballast.
CookieRoe
Senior Member
Denso ballast cost me something like $160 for both of them. I can't say exactly b/c my order also included the wire harness which was supposed to be like $75, but I got a discount, everything set me back $200. For top notch components, I'm willing to pay. No ebay crap here.................
I'll keep on eye on the ballast, I couldn't find where to zip tie them. Plus I really liked where they are mounted now. I've heard of people epoxying them into place, but I think that's silly (what do you do when/if the ballast implodes??)
Going to adjust my lights now and take some vids.............................
CookieRoe
Senior Member
Could be that it needs to be adjusted vertically (left/right). I never checked it. The HID crowd RAVE about the TLs. I'm starting to come around. The projectors DO lay down light where its needed. Again, tons better than stock.....
riceandpho
Elite Member
cookie has options on the retros, u can do bixenon, i think the u might get better results with lexus ls460, or if he wants just lows , ls430 is the widest of the two, with the 460 being close, or he can do quad ls460, or ls430 on the outside and the 460s in the inside.
i think the rx-afs projectors have more foreground lighting than the the tl.
i think the rx-afs projectors have more foreground lighting than the the tl.
riceandpho
Elite Member
the mini h1 should not be compared to the oems, i do agree its the best bang for the buck though, but it u want something better , speend the extra bucks for something in the oem and mod it with clear lens.
CookieRoe
Senior Member
Good point. Because it's OEM, I would think it would be "robust" enough to handle some moisture. On my parents lexus, I can't see where they are mounted. Anyway, where I have them they SHOULD be fine. Again, the majority of the HID community don't have them "sealed". Interesting, I'd be willing to do that if it isn't too much hassle.
The LS460 projector is said to be epic. Also, big money.
Stupid question: Do the ballast get very hot??
riceandpho
Elite Member
ballast are suppose to be warm, not hot, but if mounted close to an extreme heat source u might kill it faster, that why i suggest u to stick the driver side ballast on the driver side fender, might need to move the battery out to make it look good.
CookieRoe
Senior Member
I'm thinking the same thing. Time for a laser level!!
CookieRoe
Senior Member
Update: Up/down aim adjustment
OK, some must be sick of this thread, but I am trying to keep it informative. ANYWHO............. some pointed out that my lights are aimed waaay too high. As I've said on other threads, I didn't PROPERLY aim them.
Anyway, I know there are all kinds of "specs" and stuff on how to "fine tune" your headlight aim, but these instructions should be "good enough" for 99% of you. After much research, here it is:
1) Get a laser level. I got mine at Sears for $25. Question: Isn't going to a straight parking garage good enough? Answer: No. That's what I did and found out my cut offs were about 7 in. too high. Thing is you really don't know HOW LEVEL the concrete floor is relative to the truck. With the laser level, the laser line clearly shows the level RELATIVE to the truck (this is what you want!).
2) Make sure the laser is level. Put the laser aperture close to the projector for maximum accuracy. Note: the level is a few inches BELOW the projector, this was the only position where I could get the horizontal laser line perfectly straight. So don't forget to compensate. I remember the aperture being something like 2 or 3 in. below the projector.
3) Turn level on and observe the line on the wall in front of the truck
4) Walk over, measure 2 in. BELOW the line and mark with masking tape (or whatever). Do for drivers and passenger side (just makes it easier). Note: My HIDs are on to show where how far above they were supposed to be, but make sure they are off b/c they will drown out the laser line.
5) Walk back to your truck, turn your HIDs on and adjust accordingly. Note: the space behind the headlight is illuminated by my LED light I have in my hand.
With this shot, you can see the slight downward slope of the light. This is what you want to have proper aim (and not pissing off other drivers by blinding them
)
Good to go!
For left/right adjustments, measure distance between the center of the projectors, when at 25 ft, the point where the cut offs slope upward should be the same measurement. If the "slope upward" point for drivers and passengers side are closer, then the projectors are adjusted improperly and are pointing "toward" each other. I didn't adjust these as it started to rain when I did this last night.
The incorrect way (what I did before). I measured 36in from the floor to the middle of the projector. Backed the truck up 25 ft. Walked to the wall, measured 36in from the floor and placed masking tape at 34 in. (minus 2 inches). Turns out, when I did the above procedure with the laser level, my cut offs were at 27 in. (34-27= 7 inches too high). Luckily, many pointed out that my lights looked high. They were right. Thanks BTW!
Hope this helps those who want to aim their projectors (this can be applied to halogen lights with the OEM reflectors as well, but will be more difficult to do b/c halogens don't have a SHARP cut off line of light. You will have to "guestimate it")
:hatsoff:
correct me if you see anything wrong............
OK, some must be sick of this thread, but I am trying to keep it informative. ANYWHO............. some pointed out that my lights are aimed waaay too high. As I've said on other threads, I didn't PROPERLY aim them.
Anyway, I know there are all kinds of "specs" and stuff on how to "fine tune" your headlight aim, but these instructions should be "good enough" for 99% of you. After much research, here it is:
1) Get a laser level. I got mine at Sears for $25. Question: Isn't going to a straight parking garage good enough? Answer: No. That's what I did and found out my cut offs were about 7 in. too high. Thing is you really don't know HOW LEVEL the concrete floor is relative to the truck. With the laser level, the laser line clearly shows the level RELATIVE to the truck (this is what you want!).
2) Make sure the laser is level. Put the laser aperture close to the projector for maximum accuracy. Note: the level is a few inches BELOW the projector, this was the only position where I could get the horizontal laser line perfectly straight. So don't forget to compensate. I remember the aperture being something like 2 or 3 in. below the projector.
3) Turn level on and observe the line on the wall in front of the truck
4) Walk over, measure 2 in. BELOW the line and mark with masking tape (or whatever). Do for drivers and passenger side (just makes it easier). Note: My HIDs are on to show where how far above they were supposed to be, but make sure they are off b/c they will drown out the laser line.
5) Walk back to your truck, turn your HIDs on and adjust accordingly. Note: the space behind the headlight is illuminated by my LED light I have in my hand.
With this shot, you can see the slight downward slope of the light. This is what you want to have proper aim (and not pissing off other drivers by blinding them
)
Good to go!
For left/right adjustments, measure distance between the center of the projectors, when at 25 ft, the point where the cut offs slope upward should be the same measurement. If the "slope upward" point for drivers and passengers side are closer, then the projectors are adjusted improperly and are pointing "toward" each other. I didn't adjust these as it started to rain when I did this last night.
The incorrect way (what I did before). I measured 36in from the floor to the middle of the projector. Backed the truck up 25 ft. Walked to the wall, measured 36in from the floor and placed masking tape at 34 in. (minus 2 inches). Turns out, when I did the above procedure with the laser level, my cut offs were at 27 in. (34-27= 7 inches too high). Luckily, many pointed out that my lights looked high. They were right. Thanks BTW!
Hope this helps those who want to aim their projectors (this can be applied to halogen lights with the OEM reflectors as well, but will be more difficult to do b/c halogens don't have a SHARP cut off line of light. You will have to "guestimate it")
:hatsoff:
correct me if you see anything wrong............
Snesley Wipes
New member
Didn't know if this was addressed but, your parents ballasts are mounted on the inside of the headlight housing. Thats why you can't see them.
riceandpho
Elite Member
2inches is not enough, add 1/8'' more so its 2 1/8 which is 2.1 which is the highest DOT alllow rule thing, flat place with 33 7/8 - 33 1/2 on the wall is a good. thats 2.1 - 2.5. did that laser level came with a tri pod? u might be able to set the laser at the 36 inch height and start from there. i forgot to tell u that u must have the laser at exactly the middle of the projector. i think u might be a too low now since u used the bottom of the headlight as reference.
CookieRoe
Senior Member
Thanks! So that tells me that mouting them on the plastic of the housing is safe. Anyway, they are a 2008 ES and 2010 RX, as you may know, when you open the hood, all you see is plastic. No signs of metal or hoses depicting an engine. LOL
1/8 more? I'll try, but my laser is kinda worthless being that the laser line is vertical when sitting down. The only way to keep this a one man job, was to mount it (the way I did on the photos) off of the side fender. (I inadvertanly scratch it...........................aaaaaaaarghhhhhh....................... but oh well). I wish I had a tripod, but those models are Looney Tooney expensive, especially for what I'm going to use it for. Anyway, I measured something like 2 or 3 inches BELOW the center of the projector. I compensated when masking the wall by the same amount, THEN I lowered 2 inches. In any event, gotta find me another laser level.
Anyway, in other news: My CEL (VSC lights and TRAC) is on (again) and the code that Advanced Auto gave me are P0607 (Powertrain Control Module). This isn't the same as the ECU????? Kinda strange b/c this is the 3rd time the light went on. The first time I replaced my gas cap with a new one. It was then fine for about a month. After the 2nd time, the only symptom of anything wrong is when at start up, right when the engine is ready to catch, it dies. This is remedied by touching the gas pedal, thus the engine revving. After this, she runs like a kitten (all fine). Anyway, if the CEL comes on again, I'll have to return to the stealer. This means I have to remove the lights (ballast and all) and put in my ebay "OEM like" headlights so they don't cry foul. When my troubles began in August, they actually tried to blame my fried ECU and wire harness on the HIDs!!!!! :nerd: yeah, hello!!!?????
riceandpho
Elite Member
if u did use exactly 2 inches under from the middle of projector, then u should use that line, dont need to lower it, just match it up with the laser line.
riceandpho
Elite Member
i guess u did it right tho. i need to fix later.
