Body mount chop?

[Silvr Bullet]

I just installed my spider trax spacers and I'm running 285/70/17 toyo open country tires and I'm rubbing really badly. So I took of the mud flaps and it's way better but I'm nervous that I'm going to hit the body mount so I need to cut it back. Are there any secrets that I should know about before cutting and how far back can cut before having a problem? Thank you for any input on this issue

 

[swimmerdude1127]

I just installed my spider trax spacers and I'm running 285/70/17 toyo open country tires and I'm rubbing really badly. So I took of the mud flaps and it's way better but I'm nervous that I'm going to hit the body mount so I need to cut it back. Are there any secrets that I should know about before cutting and how far back can cut before having a problem? Thank you for any input on this issue

If you look under there you'll see where the body mount spacers are... they are black rubber and then a bolt/nut that holds it all on. Don't cut any of that. Some guys (and I agree that it's smart) take a pipe w/ a diameter just big enough to fit around that in order to protect it during cutting/welding.

If you're doing it yourself, just use a grinder to cut diagonally then get some sheet metal cut to size in order to bridge the open area. Some guys don't bridge it back up for awhile, and it's not a huge deal. But over time I believe that would break down your body mounts faster with mud/rocks/whatever hitting them.

If you want pics, I can take some of mine later today. Oh, and don't forget to paint it all when you're done...

 

[Hellamatic]

There's pics of my chop in my build thread:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/128849-hellamatic-build-thread-5.html#post1425377"]http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/128849-hellamatic-build-thread-5.html#post1425377"]http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/128849-hellamatic-build-thread-5.html#post1425377

 

[Silvr Bullet]

Thank you both so much! This is exactly what I was looking for, and the pictures in Hellamatic's build thread was just what I wanted to see. Thanks again guys!

 

[Silvr Bullet]

Swimmerdude1127, I would like to see how you did yours as well if you have the time, if not it's totally ok, your explanation was spot on. Thanks

 

[swimmerdude1127]

Swimmerdude1127, I would like to see how you did yours as well if you have the time, if not it's totally ok, your explanation was spot on. Thanks

I didn't actually do mine but I do have to REDO it for when I go up in tire size.

I'll try to get pics if I can ever get this rear bumper to fit.

 

[stinknugget]

Swimmerdude1127, I would like to see how you did yours as well if you have the time, if not it's totally ok, your explanation was spot on. Thanks

What rims are you running? OEM?

 

[Silvr Bullet]

What rims are you running? OEM?

I'm running the oem trail wheels with spidertrax spacers and 285/70/17 toyo open country tires

 

[stinknugget]

I'm running the oem trail wheels with spidertrax spacers and 285/70/17 toyo open country tires

Do you think you would have the rubbing issue with the same setup minus the spacers? I am looking to do what you have done with the exception of the spacers.

 

[Silvr Bullet]

Do you think you would have the rubbing issue with the same setup minus the spacers? I am looking to do what you have done with the exception of the spacers.

I had very small rubbing at full lock out but nothing that concerned me at all. It was very minimal. After putting the spacers on I could barely turn the wheel at all before it sounds like some one was grinding out my wheel well. I have my lift set at 2.5 as well so I don't know if that changes the situation at all.

 

[Jono.ful]

what do your alignment specs look like? adding caster has solved rubbing issues for a lot of guys here, myself included.

 

[Jeremy556]

what do your alignment specs look like? adding caster has solved rubbing issues for a lot of guys here, myself included.

That only goes so far. I run about 5.5 degrees caster and could probably clear 35s on the street, but when you are bottoming out at full lock, the body mount must go.

 

[Silvr Bullet]

what do your alignment specs look like? adding caster has solved rubbing issues for a lot of guys here, myself included.

I haven't gotten an alignment since I put on the spacers so I don't know about the specs yet, but I'm going to just do the body mount chop first then get it aligned

 

[Jono.ful]

I haven't gotten an alignment since I put on the spacers so I don't know about the specs yet, but I'm going to just do the body mount chop first then get it aligned

depending how much rub you're getting, a good alignment might negate the need for a chop. your call.

 

[Hellamatic]

Getting rid of the spacers would negate the need for a chop - I didn't rub at all with my stock TE wheels

 

[swimmerdude1127]

That only goes so far. I run about 5.5 degrees caster and could probably clear 35s on the street, but when you are bottoming out at full lock, the body mount must go.

Are you planning on running 35's?

 

[Jeremy556]

Are you planning on running 35's?

Nah, just 34's after re-gearing (some day).

 

[swimmerdude1127]

Nah, just 34's after re-gearing (some day).

I'd like to as well... already re-geared but just bought the 33" MT/Rs about 6 months ago haha

 

[Jeremy556]

I'd like to as well... already re-geared but just bought the 33" MT/Rs about 6 months ago haha

Ha, just got 285/70/17 MTRs on Tuesday.

 

[SoCal4Run]

Has anyone used a sawzall for this? Just can't see paying $200 plus to have this done. Anyone know of shops in orange county area that could do for cheaper? Thanks.