yes, hoping that relay is just stuck open, and the replacement will return things to normal. never had a relay fail in years of driving.
Brake lights constantly on?
- Thread starter rwh963
- Start date
yes, hoping that relay is just stuck open, and the replacement will return things to normal. never had a relay fail in years of driving.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
I see 3 other relays in the photo that very well could have the same part number, I would of checked them to see if indeed they have the same part number and if so tried it to see if the brake lights worked properly.
thx for the suggestion, though, in this case, brake lights are on w/o headlights on.
day late and a dollar short on that suggestion! replacement will be here saturday, so i think i will let the suspense build.
It will be interesting to see if this fixes it. I have seen them fail, not too often, but has happened.
If this doesn’t work, I would trace what all is tied into the brake switch connection.
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AuSeeker
Elite Member
I know my reply was too late when I posted it but I posted as soon as I saw your photo, the main reason I posted that suggestion was for your future reference if you experience another relay possibly gone bad, also for anyone else that may read this in the future with a similar issue with a relay.
lighten up, it was meant to be humorous! now if i had spend $1000, i would very upset at your late-to-the-party suggestion! we will find out something when the replacement relay arrives. just checked on the situation again, now that it is dark. brake like functions normally with ignition off, always on with ignition engaged (acc or on).
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Not sure what in my last reply made you think I was upset, I don't get upset over forum posts, life is too short for that.
not upset, just a little serious! thx for chiming in; hopefully issue will be resolved shortly. might even be here tomorrow (even though we will be having a snow storm).
.so, need some new ideas. will check the brake fluid level. maybe the pedal spring? don't feel any pedal slack (can't lift it with my toes). is there a sensor somewhere? i had mentioned that i had the rear brakes completely replaced last summer; could there be a wire not re-connected? and remembering that the VSC lights are also running long term (as well as tpms light). don't recall if i changed any rear bulbs last year. i see something about double filament bulbs.
in my personal repair summary, i see that the brake light switch was replaced by me at 200k miles (228k now).
in my personal repair summary, i see that the brake light switch was replaced by me at 200k miles (228k now).
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Jakeepoo3
New member
In the picture next to your relay box i see a rusted trough panel. That indicates to me there may be the same type of thing going on under your relay/fuse box. Next I recommend checking the circuit at the relay female connection on both sides of the circuit with a test light. This should tell you which side of the circuit the problem is on. You can do this at the fuses also to narrow down the trouble area. Remember when using a test light connect to ground to check for voltage. Connect to ground to check for power. Repeat the procedure twice with ignition switch in all positions. This is my method there are other options.. The brake job has nothing to do with this.
i read that some brakes light switches can be adjusted. i didn't know that. makes sense because the switch is used in multiple vehicles. i don't remember adjusting it at 200k (july 2018) miles with the new one. i did not adjust the new one i just tried. heck, maybe the brake lights have been running since 2018! cops will stop you for brake lights out, maybe not for them on unless;ess they are driving behind you.
anyone know if it is adjustable, and how?
anyone know if it is adjustable, and how?
Jakeepoo3
New member
Yes there is an adjuster to set the plunger. If your lights are on with the ignition on then they would also be on with it off until your battery died if the plunger was just set incorrectly..
Jakeepoo3
New member
This is a simple circuit too! These circuits get pretty complex and intertwined with each other that's the beauty of the test light and multimeter diagnostic method. It's fairly simple to isolate the problem area within the circuit once you understand how to interpret them and the flow of electricity.
and again, the brake lights work as expected with no key in ignition, and with key in up to ACC. once i turn the key to ON and START, that is were the lights remain on. what's the difference between ACC and ON? something different happens hoping from one to the other.
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Jakeepoo3
New member
There's no way I can think of the rust could come from a drip from above so you have a rust issue coming from the other side all the way through..
