Brake pad options

So would you recommend changing out the rotors also or can I just use the stock ones and have them resurfaced? I just use my t4r for day to day use and not much offloading. But I would like to make it a comfortable car to ride in and also to eliminate its squeal when I brake. I just put average brakes in before because it was all I could afford, but I would like to put ones in that are a little more solid this time. The Wagners are on sale currently so thought they might be a good buy. Any ideas about it?

Also how did you do that mod to your gauges to make the lights blue? That looks amazing!!

I replaced my stock pads with Wagner Ceramic Thermal-Quiet or whatever they're called. They do the job and are quiet as they claim. No complaints here.
 
I've actually been thinking about going with Stoptech (TRD) or even some EBC stuff, I want some more bite; anyone have experience or suggestions (also lets talk rotors since they go with pads as well?) :D

I used a set of EBC pads on my Honda Goldwing and it was a marked improvement. If you are looking for more "bite" I would consider them. If one does not need more than factory I would always say OEM. You pretty much know that though.
 
can someone give me the P/N for the OEM from pads and where they are ordering them from?

i replaced pads/rotors/calipers last year and now they pulse/catch like crazy somtimes. was told the compound for the pads is to soft and leaving deposits on the rotors. i used the best pads and rotors they had at advance auto. plan is to replace with OEM pads and turn the rotors. good plan?
 
i replaced pads/rotors/calipers last year and now they pulse/catch like crazy sometimes. was told the compound for the pads is to soft and leaving deposits on the rotors.

Unless someone went over the rotors with a micrometer...there's no way to tell that is happening.

Warped rotors is one reason for the pulsating. But the 4runner's brake design flaw causes another way - stuck caliper piston. The problem is that there are 4 pistons per caliper. If ONE caliper gets stuck it causes uneven braking which results in the pulsating you feel. 4 times I've had pulsating brakes on my 4runner with 260k miles. I've only replaced the rotors ONCE. The other times I just replaced the calipers and it fixed the problem.
 
can someone give me the P/N for the OEM from pads and where they are ordering them from?

i replaced pads/rotors/calipers last year and now they pulse/catch like crazy somtimes. was told the compound for the pads is to soft and leaving deposits on the rotors. i used the best pads and rotors they had at advance auto. plan is to replace with OEM pads and turn the rotors. good plan?

04465-35290 Front Pads.
 
Unless someone went over the rotors with a micrometer...there's no way to tell that is happening.

Warped rotors is one reason for the pulsating. But the 4runner's brake design flaw causes another way - stuck caliper piston. The problem is that there are 4 pistons per caliper. If ONE caliper gets stuck it causes uneven braking which results in the pulsating you feel. 4 times I've had pulsating brakes on my 4runner with 260k miles. I've only replaced the rotors ONCE. The other times I just replaced the calipers and it fixed the problem.

you might want to read up a little:
-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/69613-brake-rotors-warp-easily.html

I will try to change the pads, if that doesn't work I will investigate the calipers

04465-35290 Front Pads.

thank you
 
you might want to read up a little:
-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

Re-read my post.

Warped rotors is a term used by the automotive industry to indicate the rotor surface is not perfectly flat. I NEVER addressed how that could happen....I don't know where you think I did. Yes the metal doesn't actually warp..but the warping is actually buildup of material left by heating (and then cooling of that material) on the rotors.

But the point I was making is that you can NOT tell by looking at them or feeling the rotors with your hand if they are warped (excessive buildup). You need a micrometer to do that.
 
I'm waiting to have 4x4 Parts install Powerstop Rotors and Brake pads on mine. I've got a 4 inch lift with Shrockworks single loop bumper and sliders so I needed something stronger for the added weight. I'll let you guys know how they feel.
 
But the point I was making is that you can NOT tell by looking at them or feeling the rotors with your hand if they are warped (excessive buildup). You need a micrometer to do that.

And I never said you could tell that there was brake pad build-up on the rotor by looking at them or feeling them now did I. you used the very general term "warped rotors", I didn't, but if you know the rotors don't warp, you shouldn't use that terminology. i have not heard anyone in the automotive industry use the term "warped rotors" for brake pad deposits on the rotor, just misinformed car owners thinking that's what they have. ;):
 
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I didn't, but if you know the rotors don't warp, you shouldn't use that terminology.

UMMMM...Wrong...You use the terminology that is used in the industry. Sorry...but I don't know of a single mechanic or parts person who doesn't understand the term Warped rotor.

There are MANY MANY words used in many different areas that don't mean what you say.

Ever been on an airline flight? The terminology still used by many airlines is to "Please get on the plane". I don't know about you...but I'll NEVER get ON a plane..I will however get IN a plane. When they tell you to get ON the plane you actually going to climb ON it.
 
And I never said you could tell that there was brake pad build-up on the rotor by looking at them or feeling them now did I. you used the very general term "warped rotors", I didn't, but if you know the rotors don't warp, you shouldn't use that terminology. i have not heard anyone in the automotive industry use the term "warped rotors" for brake pad deposits on the rotor, just misinformed car owners thinking that's what they have. ;):

Actually to be honest a lot of people in the industry use that terminology still. Many are uneducated, but most are aware of the reality of how most rotors become "warped." The truth is that there isn't a really catchy term to replace "warped rotors" with and its been ingrained in our culture to the point that we use it as a colloquial reference more than anything.

Many owners still ask for "Tune-Ups" for their vehicles when in reality such a service doesn't and was never strictly defined in the past either. Just as we refer to many tools by their manufacturer names and not their actual names (i.e. Crescent Wrench vs. Adjustable Wrench, Vice-Grips vs. Locking Pliers), its just a term that was adopted and is continued to be used such as some people referring to an engine as a "motor" or terms like "MotorHead," ect.
 
Actually to be honest a lot of people in the industry use that terminology still. Many are uneducated, but most are aware of the reality of how most rotors become "warped." The truth is that there isn't a really catchy term to replace "warped rotors" with and its been ingrained in our culture to the point that we use it as a colloquial reference more than anything.

Many owners still ask for "Tune-Ups" for their vehicles when in reality such a service doesn't and was never strictly defined in the past either. Just as we refer to many tools by their manufacturer names and not their actual names (i.e. Crescent Wrench vs. Adjustable Wrench, Vice-Grips vs. Locking Pliers), its just a term that was adopted and is continued to be used such as some people referring to an engine as a "motor" or terms like "MotorHead," ect.

Granted, with that last one: an engine IS a motor. An engine is a motor that specifically uses thermal energy to convert to mechanical energy. :P
 
Just got back from the mechanic and need all four wheels done with pads and rotors. He did not use the term warped, but said they had build up. Also said I will need four new tires shortly. Taking a 600 mile trip one way tomorrow, so going to put about 1500 miles on it next week. He said I should be fine for up to 5,000 miles, but should have the brakes done when I get back.

After reading this thread still not sure what I should get. He wanted almost $1100 to do all four with OEM pads and rotors, and $740 to use non-oem, but didn't know exactly what brand. The pads were ceramic from CARQUEST.

I have done brakes myself on many cars, but not sure I feel like doing this one myself. I just turned 65 this month and getting up and down is not as easy as it once was. Guess I could try to get one of my son in laws or son to do it. They all do their own also.
 
I had Powerstop slotted rotors and ceramic pads installed on mine and they work amazingly. The whole kit is only $360. Tell your mechanic to suck a bag of dicks and get it done elsewhere.
 
And Jim I just realized were brothers. I too have a dark blue 2003 V8 Limited so take your families word for it.
 

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