Brian's FX-R 3" HID Projector Retrofit on 97 4Runner Project (T4R.org)
End Result Looks Something Like This ....
[ note if the pics are too big hit Control (-) ]
Hi,
Here are the results of my FX-R retrofit on a 97 4Runner. I previously had a full retrofit kit with Lexus Projectors done by a semi-pro. It was quite a good kit but I wanted to build one on my own that was painted on the inside and had amber halos. This is my first retrofit attempt. I don't really think of this as "write up", it is more of a project report. I will try to be as thorough as possible.
For anyone trying this project - I would highly
recommend reading at least the first two pages of the thread and not just the initial post. I made several important updates below that you will find useful.
{ Sources }
* Retrofit Source Guide:
The Retrofit Source Inc
* [DEAD] PDF Guide:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pdf/trs_tech/FX-R_Projector_Retrofit.pdf [DEAD]
* FX-R Retrofit Guide:
Projectors: FX-R 3.0 Guide - DIY Installation Guides
* RickAshay:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/headlight-hookup/
* Aiming Headlights:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/130317-how-properly-aim-projector-headlights.html
Buy parts:
* TYC L/R Headlights Pair from EBAY (~$85)
* OEM Toyota Headlight Housing L + R (~$45 each)
* HID Components Kit from RetrofitSource.com ($400 - $500)
* Paint: SEM Charcoal Metallic, High Build Primer (~ $15 each)
* Silver Foil Tape ($10)
* Silicone Sealant ($5)
* EPOXY, JB Weld ($5 each)
* Screws set from home depot x2
{ MARK ALIGNMENT ON WALL }
This is difficult. I had already marked the cutoff lines on my garage wall using my old custom 4Runner projector set. This really helped me out a lot since I had a baseline for the alignment. Assuming you don't have a working completed projector set ready you will want to follow the instructions linked above. Whatever you do, don't throw away your OEM headlights because you will need them for marking on the wall if you don't already have a set like me. The first time I did a projector retrofit, like a dumb@ss I threw away my headlight housings. They are worth $$$ so don't do that.
{ SWAP TYC HOUSING OUT }
At the minimum you will want the black plastic OEM "headlight housings" since the ones that come with the TYC set are brittle and may break when you try to adjust it; the rest of the TYC headlight is still good. So assuming you are not just modifying your existing OEM housings you will need to swap the cheap TYC housing off the TYC headlight assembly and replace that housing (the part that is adjustable) with the OEM one.
Small steps
* Put onto the 4Runner and align the light with a screwdriver so that the lens looks flush and correct when turned OFF. Basically does it look flush with the grill.
* Remove lights from truck and take into garage.
* Remove battery from truck.
* Bake Lights in oven at 275 F for 7 mins, do this ONE at a time.
* Remove each lens with two screw drivers, it should pry off with a small amount of pressure.
{ DRILL THE HOLES }
* Use a dremmel tool with a small cutting blade to cut out and widen the lightbulb hole in the back of the light as pictured.
* Tape up the inside of the light (you can probably skip this); I did this so I could easily mark the screws.
* Set the projector light into the housing, power up light, align on the wall (refer to a different guide than this one), mark where the screws touch the headlight inside with a sharpie.
* Drill holes where marked; they should be oval shaped. Make the holes wide and oval shaped so you can move the projector around after putting the screws through.
* Now that the holes are drilled, set the projector in the light and try to get it to align on the wall as per your tape marks. If it is too tight or won't align then widen the holes.
* Repeat until you can perfectly align both lights on each side and the light matches up with your tape marks.
Remove the projectors and set aside in a safe place.
{ PAINT THE LIGHTS }
* Lightly sand the inside of the light and the plastic shrouds with soft grit sandpaper.
* Wipe down with water and a cloth.
* Wipe down with paint thinner and a cloth.
* Spray the primer, 2x coats
* Spray with main paint, 2x coats
* Let dry for a long time, long enough to handle the paint. I would say at least 3 hours.
* Cover the entire inside of the light with blue painters tape. This is to protect the paint while to man-handle the housing, install the projectors, and glue them in. You don't want epoxy or J-B Weld on your nice paint job.
{ GLUE PROJECTORS IN, PART I }
* Mix up some 5 min clear epoxy, power on the HIDs on your work bench, align correctly on the wall, adjust screws, *lightly* apply epoxy and hold in place while aligned. Be sure to use only a small amount in case you messed up the alignment and have to "reverse it".
* Repeat for other light.
{ TEST PART I }
* Test on truck, be careful since they aren't fully glued yet.
* Confirm alignment is true and accurate
{ FINAL GLUING }
* If you confirmed the alignment is good then you can now put a full batch of J-B Weld on
each side of each screw hole (hence the blue tape).
* Let sit for awhile, say 2 hours. I let mine sit overnight mostly because I ran out of time and it was getting cold.
* Once the J-B Weld is fully set you can remove the tape on the inside of the light.
{ GLUE HALOS TO INSIDE OF SHROUD }
* Tape up the outside of the shrouds, (again) to project the nice paint.
* Use clear epoxy and glue halos inside shroud. Use best judgement because this is difficult. I held in place for 5 mins while it dried.
* Let dry.
{ Install Shrouds and re-seal lights }
* Snap the shrouds (with halo inside) onto the face of the projector - don't scratch the lens. I chose not to glue the shrouds onto since the fit was so tight. Gluing is unnecessarily permanent for this step (don't glue them onto the projector!)
* Use the oven to reseal the headlight lenses back onto each headlight, be sure to wipe of any fingerprints first.
* Install. Op-Test.
{ Create and install modified breather tube with new filter }
* See pictures a few posts down. This is a REALLY important step.
Addendum for reference ...
* I drilled the holes.
* Test fit and powered up inside garage.
* Drilled more, adjusted until they could be aligned.
* Then sanded and painted.
* Then taped inside of light
* Then did a basic light gluing using a small amount of super glue / epoxy (not JB weld).
* Tested on the truck and confirmed alignment was good before the final JB Weld
* Lastly I applied a full amount of JB/weld to the screws on inside and outside.
