Brilliant's Mod Thread

[Brilliant]

Objective: Remove puke green dash lights, replace with red for better night vision but mostly appearance

Process:
Remove all lights, determine wedge style bulb size and quantity for cluster/switches
Use red light film for clock
Solder in red leds into window lights

Parts List
Cluster - 3 x - Type 24 | T6.5 wedge
Key - 1 x - Type 74 | T5 wedge
Ashtray - 1 x - Type 74 | T5 wedge
AT Shifter – 1 x - Type 24 | T6.5 wedge
Glove Box – 1 x Type 74 | T5 wedge
Rear Window button- 1 x – Type A | T3 8mm Japanese Instrument panel bulb
ECT/Rear Defroster - 1 x - Type A | T3 8mm Japanese Instrument panel bulb
Climate Control – 2 x – Type A | T3 8mm Japanese panel bulbs & 2 x - Type B | T4 10mm Japanese panel bulbs
Flasher - 1 x – Type A | T3 8mm Japanese panel bulbs
Cig Lighter – Custom. I pulled the old bulb out, cut off the housing from a Type 74 so it was bare LED, wires, and resistors. I put it in with a tad of silicone.
Window Switches – Micro LED, requires printed circuit board solder, modified type 74s.

I used superstars with lens covers for the Type 24s for the cluster and AT shifter. The 3 LED ones do not fit, they are too loose (maybe glue them if you want). I used narrow LEDS for all the Typa A & B, dont buy they wide square heads, they will not fit the ECT and rear window button well.

Finally I can see my climate controls!

Puke green/yellow wasn't an option for color match, so I went green.

Note: some trimming of the Type A and B bulb's locking 'slats' had to be done to make them fit. I used a hobby knife and pliers to hold the bulbs.

Where I bought them:
LED Lights, Bulbs & Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS
Automotive Car Truck Light Bulb Connectors Sockets Wiring Harnesses Receptacles
Bulb Guide: Automotive Bulb Visual Finder

I had 1 cluster, key ring, ECT, rear window, AT boot, climate controls, and glove box all out by previous owner. All better now. Hopefully this helps other limited owners sort it out what they need, but fix them. Its super easy.

Oh no, I got that you bought the whole cluster, I was asking if you bought the cluster JUST to get your hands on a new guage face? What was your winning bid on the cluster?

My bubble is, luckily enough, on the tach. It's located right where the upper LH corner of your bubble was located. Thanks for the generous offer though.

OK bummer man. FYI the bubble is very very thin.

but yea. I bought the cluster just to get the face. I paid $70 for the cluster but I'd check a yard first. I got another cluster to experiment with for 40 IIRC.

 

[A.Wilson013]

I also have a bubble on my tach about 1/10 the size of yours. Doesn't bother me much, rather at all.

About the red lights though, you used a filament bulb, right? If so, is your redline still a darker shade of red than the regular areas?

 

[jmt2404]

your oil light is on sir... Saw it in your night time pic of the gauges. lol

Nice job on the truck man coming along nicely.

 

[Brilliant]

I also have a bubble on my tach about 1/10 the size of yours. Doesn't bother me much, rather at all.

About the red lights though, you used a filament bulb, right? If so, is your redline still a darker shade of red than the regular areas?

I used a 120 degree LED. The redline is not visible anymore at night anymore. Oh well... I am happy that everything matches better now and red works better for me at night.

If you have a AT, I have a gauge face without a bubble if it gets worse or you want to fix it. Just let me know. I am not going to be using it.

your oil light is on sir... Saw it in your night time pic of the gauges. lol Nice job on the truck man coming along nicely.

The ignition is ON but its not running, but thanks for looking out. =}

 

[jmt2404]

I figured it was. Did you ever get a new bumper?
I still have mine for sale if you want to take a look at it.

 

[Brilliant]

Objective: Replace 6 spoke FJ wheels with painted FJs, get rid of chrome wheels, follow [MENTION=77927]GSUeagles[/MENTION] DD.

 

[zacattack20]

Yeah I wouldn't buy anything from partsgeek again. I ordered and paid for NEW brake shoes for the rear and they sent me relined ones that were a cheaper price but didn't refund me the price difference or even contact me that they were out of stock on the ones I ordered so they were sending me the different ones and were gonna rip me off. So I returned them and they ended up paying $10 of the return shipping but it cost me $16 to send back so I lost $6 because of their crappy customer service.

 

[GottaBeTRD]

woah! dude those wheels are bad ass! I WANT SOME. how much did they cost?

 

[Brilliant]

woah! dude those wheels are bad ass! I WANT SOME. how much did they cost?

They are going for 100/wheel if you want to BN on ebay. I've seen them for less, 2-3 too.

 

[Brilliant]

I swapped out the tie rods and LBJs and went to Firestone for an alignment.

I also installed Addico sway and the tundra brakes. The Speed Bleeders worked awesome to solo bleed the system. The fluid looked clear so I didn't flush they system. My friend facepalmed when he saw the ventilated rotors. They were a few bucks more, but nothing crazy.

I also spent some time hammering the pinch weld and trimming for spacers and finally put on the 1.25 spidertrax spacers. Why spacers? I want a more aggressive look without going to 33s.

 

[Brilliant]

Objective: Deepen exhaust note since I need to replace exhaust anyway, install TRD exhaust.

 

[A.Wilson013]

Here it is with spacers, the tires sit about flush with the fenders.

Coming along quite well!

Did you swirl out handicapped signs?! haha

Well played.

 

[Brilliant]

Objective: OEM+ mild lift, replace worn out dampers

I went with 4x4 FJC coils in the rear, they fit and are not a stiff as OME type stuff. Tundra 4x4 coils in the front. Bilstein dampers and an adjustable track bar.

FJC coils shown below, they are nearly identical wound diameter and fit in the cups just fine.

FJC Coils

Piggyback Bilsteins

Tundra Coils

Track bar

 

[4Running Daily]

Simply Brilliant...

 

[A.Wilson013]

If we're able to get together next saturday you're going to have to take me for a spin with those swaybars. They've had my interest for quite some time, but thought they were a bit too spendy to buy without testing them out...

 

[Brilliant]

Put the 99s back on with Tokikos Trekmasters. I like the ride, it seems actually stiffer on initial bumps than the Tundra 5100s. I like the 5100s on large holes, but I think I prefer the trekmasters and 99 coils in general around the neighborhood driving.

When I reinstalled the 99s, I got some new poly isolators because i tossed my old isolators. They probably lift the front end about 0.5-1CM. Whats cool is that my front fender measures 93CM from ground with the 99 talls and it also measures 93CM with the tundra setup on lowest perch.

So this is why my forum name is what it is. Most people would measure, then install, not me. I installed, measured the 'after', then uninstalled the tundras and reinstalled the 99s to measure the 'before'. :toilet3:

Its good to know that tundra 5100 and tundra 4x4 trd coils on the lowest perch are damn near the same height as 99s!

So now I am thinking I'll buy some trim packers and shim my rear coils up 1-2CM to, 1 level them (~10mm) and make it a tad higher maybe another 10mm. The +2" lift of the 890s made the vehicle look goofy to me and its just way to much in the rear.

I'm pretty particular though on right height. I recall installing the suspension on my car, coilovers and bars, all took 30 mins from jack up to lower back down. It then took me the 10 hours and the rest of the day to set the ride height.

I'll drive around a bit to ensure the 99s settle again before I make any more changes.

 

[Qyota]

Thanks for the comparo. I'll be going from '99 "talls" to the 5100/TRD setup this summer. I was going to go with the lowest perch, but maybe now I'll start at the 2nd perch. I don't want much lift, but I want a little. Something to match the 906's in the back (also paired with 5100s, most likely).

 

[A.Wilson013]

Put the 99s back on with Tokikos Trekmasters. I like the ride, it seems actually stiffer on initial bumps than the Tundra 5100s. I like the 5100s on large holes, but I think I prefer the trekmasters and 99 coils in general around the neighborhood driving.

Interesting. Thanks for that... I may go this route since my offroad driving is minimal...

 

[Brilliant]

I can only think to reinstall the bilsteins for coolness and more off road. I think they loose a lot of feel of the road.

Loaded up the back with 250lbs, trekmasters did very well on the highway, really felt good with stock 99s.

I think I can describe the trekkies as hard on initial bump, soft and rolly on large bumps. I did some washboards and some rolling 18" bumps and the trekmasters and my passenger loved the damping on the rollers. washboards, well that was scary but yet to have them not be regardless of suspension.

I dont think the treckmasters are for me and will switch back to the tundra setup in the front since its about the same height. I want to get rid of the brake dive and want less initial bump damping and more hole damping.

Im not sure what to do with the rear. I am thinking 906's cut down or new 99s with packers. Either way, Im swapping back in the 5125s as I read the travel on the set I have (they vary by part number) is the same as bilstien HDs. The trekkies unloaded dont seem to do much. They feel great loaded though.

 

[Brilliant]

Got the 2012 FJs on with 265/70/R17 Duratracs. I like BFG treads more, but my lowest traction environment is on snow so duratracs it is.