Brillos Builds
- Thread starter brillo_76
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RodrickHeffley
Member
I would buy a better brake drum tool then Harbor freights.. I bent that using my hands pulling on a spring...:/
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you can try going after their warranty, it should cover that
brillo_76
Elite Member
If you want them to break again. I would just advise folks to buy a better pair as these broke in the middle of a break job.
I was pulling on a spring with the front jaw with my hands when they bent. I bent them back twice then they snapped. So folks can do as they wish. I have no attention to own another pair of these. I shouldn't be able to bend these with hand strength in my book. Metal has to be way too soft. Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
brillo_76
Elite Member
As I am slowly working on my Tetanus1 hatch. I am getting tired if driving my 09 Tocuma. So since Joe isn't driving shitbox [ 1997 limited] at the moment. I figured I cruise it around. Only to find out the AC isn't working. Well it got a new drier and Condenser when we changed the engine last winter. So I had it sucked down and charge with dye to see what I was working with.
Being the PO had it completely disconnected. I swapped the compressor when I had the engine out. I figured when I jumped the switch and the compressor kicked. I figured oh probably lost the pressure switch [ I should have grabbed my gauges to verify]
So I take the rig over to my buddy's to have the refrigerant recovered to change this pressure switch. Only to find out I have 10 lbs psi in the system.
So I change my switch and throw almost 2 cans 12 oz cans of 134a to see what I am dealing with.
Low and behold I have 4 leaks. The 2 drier connections and the Condenser upper right above the drier. Along with the dreaded compressor being green with the black light.
So I snug those 3 up and wash them off with water. To see if I can get those to stop seeping. Granted I put new ac o rings on it when I replaced the Condenser and drier. So I am hoping this at least solved those 3 leaks. I have to check in a few days.
You can't go wrong with dye and a black light to find your leaks. The only bummer was I had to wait until dark to see it. :]
This also passed the vacuum test. So you can actually pass that and when you charge it up have leaks.
I figured I share my ac adventure so others can learn from it.
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Being the PO had it completely disconnected. I swapped the compressor when I had the engine out. I figured when I jumped the switch and the compressor kicked. I figured oh probably lost the pressure switch [ I should have grabbed my gauges to verify]
So I take the rig over to my buddy's to have the refrigerant recovered to change this pressure switch. Only to find out I have 10 lbs psi in the system.
So I change my switch and throw almost 2 cans 12 oz cans of 134a to see what I am dealing with.
Low and behold I have 4 leaks. The 2 drier connections and the Condenser upper right above the drier. Along with the dreaded compressor being green with the black light.
So I snug those 3 up and wash them off with water. To see if I can get those to stop seeping. Granted I put new ac o rings on it when I replaced the Condenser and drier. So I am hoping this at least solved those 3 leaks. I have to check in a few days.
You can't go wrong with dye and a black light to find your leaks. The only bummer was I had to wait until dark to see it. :]
This also passed the vacuum test. So you can actually pass that and when you charge it up have leaks.
I figured I share my ac adventure so others can learn from it.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
In the rust belt. Its always a battle. You can see what evaporust can do.
I included a before and after photos of the flexplate. Looks like now. I just gave everything a bath in wd 40 after I washed it off.
It's not super cheap but almost must have for working on 10 year old plus vehicles here.
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I included a before and after photos of the flexplate. Looks like now. I just gave everything a bath in wd 40 after I washed it off.
It's not super cheap but almost must have for working on 10 year old plus vehicles here.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
I need to give it a few coats. It's better then the holes and rust. And you only see the paint up close. Good enough for what the rig is.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Most modern paint has a window of 16 hours @70 degrees. After this window of time, you have to wet sand it again as you have to have scratches for the paint to hold on or adhere to. So if I need to touch those areas again. I will have to sand it some so the paint will stick. Very good information to know.
Very good information to know. 
octanejunkie
Elite Member
1500-2000 grit is all you need to break the surface before you start removing materialMost modern paint has a window of 16 hours @70 degrees. After this window of time, you have to wet sand it again as you have to have scratches for the paint to hold on or adhere to. So if I need to touch those areas again. I will have to sand it some so the paint will stick.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
True. I like 440. Removing a little high stuff of uneven is fine. Plus I don't have any 1500 -2000 grit. Correct it's basically scuff the surface so paint sticks.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
All my bolts after being evaporust washed and coated in wd-40. Now I can just give them a 2nd coat if wd-40 and put them in storage for when needed. Those are all toyota bolts off of a 3rd gen. Except that one little pile that's different..
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