Nice job on the bulb replacement and thanks for sharing the links.
Brillos Builds
- Thread starter brillo_76
- Start date
brillo_76
Elite Member
I would imagine the bulbs make the newer style of lights brighter too. However, I didn't test this theory out yet. I am just glad I can see the road again as it was getting pretty bad with all the newer cars lights. Especially bad when it rained on back non lines road.. I report back in a few night drives in. 
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AndyMonroe
New member
Have any photos?? I always love to see patching.
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I don't have any pictures but I did not patch, I changed parts of the frames.
In east KY.
brillo_76
Elite Member
That will work too. I Like to take what is there and fix it. Nothing wrong with chopping the frame and welding it back together. The end result is a solid frame and that is what matters. Do you take out all the holes in the frame when you change it or leave those factory holes in place?
Dieselchessy
New member
You’ll love the LED’s. I run the Beamtech led’s with fans. I had to add a resistor for my high beam indicator to work.
I also had to aim my lights a bit lower. People would flash me often.
They are much better than the $40 silver star ultra standard bulbs.
The one negative, also a positive, is they light up reflective signs way out, but a bit too much if it’s a white speed limit sign. They are too bright when your close.
I also had to aim my lights a bit lower. People would flash me often.
They are much better than the $40 silver star ultra standard bulbs.
The one negative, also a positive, is they light up reflective signs way out, but a bit too much if it’s a white speed limit sign. They are too bright when your close.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Yes they do. I probably have to do some a few more slight adjustments. I actually dropped my lights a full garage panel down so people wouldn't flash me. I am just wondering if these are wired properly as I read that our Neg wires in our headlights are different then the normal socket. If this is the case, I will create jumpers to change the wiring instead of changing the plugs. I love the fact. I can just pull a bulb out and swap back to original OEM Lights. Not that I ever plan to. Its just in case a cook an LED.
I will check with super bright LED as the box doesn't show me any wiring or pin configurations.
Kanoe
New member
Yes. That's a good upgrade. I still get excited and tell the wife '3 streams!!'. She tells me to shut up and drive.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Lol.. They have no idea how much better that was then the 2 streams narrow band.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Well my original started leaking about 3 years ago. So I had it replaced with a remfg one. Then about 3 days later the nipple rotted through on the return line and the fluid leaked out. I kept filling it but the damage was done and that new pump worked but was noisy. Got that fixed and just listen to that pump whine for a few years.
I bought a used replacement of a forum member. So Today I cleaned the screen in the reservoir on the replacement OEM pump and changed it.
It's nice to have a power steering pump that's quiet again.
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I bought a used replacement of a forum member. So Today I cleaned the screen in the reservoir on the replacement OEM pump and changed it.
It's nice to have a power steering pump that's quiet again.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Not in the rust belt in the middle of winter I am not. Most of that engine bay is under fluid film.
Remember, I am not a super A personality type. I did notice that after I put that pump in. I said wow that bay needs a bath. Its warm enough now. So tommorrow. I give it a bath and post the engine bay picture.
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Dieselchessy
New member
I read your headlight connector bit, but didn’t understand, and then got distracted. LOL
I’m not sure about what you say about wiring, connectors, and switched grounds. I need to investigate. I’d like to just run a resistor on the high beam side so my indicator works.
Right now I run just one of the resistor boxes from Super bright LED’s on the passenger side. Double sided tape holding it to the air box. It has the connectors on pigtails and 2 of the gold anodized 6 ohm resistors inside it.
It gets pretty hot.
You can easily just unplug it and plug in standard bulbs. Using just one standard bulb let’s the high beam indicator work.
I want to try just one resistor on the high beam side to reduce heat and wasted power.
I’m not sure about what you say about wiring, connectors, and switched grounds. I need to investigate. I’d like to just run a resistor on the high beam side so my indicator works.
Right now I run just one of the resistor boxes from Super bright LED’s on the passenger side. Double sided tape holding it to the air box. It has the connectors on pigtails and 2 of the gold anodized 6 ohm resistors inside it.
It gets pretty hot.
You can easily just unplug it and plug in standard bulbs. Using just one standard bulb let’s the high beam indicator work.
I want to try just one resistor on the high beam side to reduce heat and wasted power.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I read that here about our headlight circuit. I need to investigate that circuit. I have all the Electrical wiring diagrams for all 3rd gen years so I look into it.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
This is how I was Thinking on how to fix mine. As our headlights are negative triggered {The low and the high are connected to the ground through the switches with the positive being on pin 2 }
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M6W1PMK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1EQP448COWZL4&psc=1
You can see parallel relays so that if one quits both your headlights don't go at once. Yet you blow the fuse they both will...:/
I don't want to mess with resisters or changing the wiring of the Rig. Now I can add resister etc to this plug and play harness and switch it to positive triggered.
However, I really want the pin-out from Super Bright LEDs as how the LEDS are actually wired. I have a feeling that they are wired to be positive triggered instead of negative triggered. Or maybe the driver has some logic in it and sensing the wiring and auto pinning the LED for us. This is possibility as well.
Also the reason I am thinking on going this way as I can add fog lights to the low beam circuit really easily too and the circuitry will be there in I just need to add an illuminated switch in the dash and run a cut off switch to control the lights. {low beam feed {spliced into } going to switch then from switch to both Fog lights }. This way my Fogs will shut off when high beams on and can be disabled by the toggle switch in the dash.
Most of my 3rd gen do not have Fog lights well only 2 do. So I am thinking of adding them to the other 3.
I am just not liking the single power source, nor I am liking only one side plugged in. As we have 2 headlight fuses for a reason. So only one can go at any given time while the other still functions.
I am going to think about this for a while before executing a fix. As I want the ability to add my fog lights in as well is see how my LEDS are actually wired.
As it seems pretty easy to fix the high beam indicator problem. ;-)
Also a Link to this issue:
High Beam Indicator - What Triggers it?
Dieselchessy
New member
Just looks like a standard high watt relay harness. Guessing the relay coils would suffice to activate the high beam sensor.
I have friends that run those harnesses and high watt off-road bulbs.
I have friends that run those harnesses and high watt off-road bulbs.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I will see here as I may need to build my own converter. I rather have these convertor per side instead of only one side an one power feed. We blow that fuse its all over no headlights. As our original headlights are fused per side so if one blew we have the other.
I wish Super bright would get back to me with how these LED Are wired so I will know which way I want to go with this..
That harness converts from negative triggered to positive triggered basically flips it around from how our lights are wired now.
I am not sure the current draw on those relays would be enough as Diodes are one way current this is why our indicator is not working.
The current cant flow back from the LED.
My concern with the wiring is that I may only be half as bright as they could be because of the wiring of our headlights. Thus not being energy efficient as I want to be. However, I could be wrong but will not know until I hear from the MFG.
I included a 1998 USA headlight Electrical wiring Diagram so you can see that the lights are negative triggered and each light is fused separately so a fuse could blow and both headlights will not go out only one and a bulb could go and the fuses wouldn't blow either.
Dieselchessy
New member
Looking at the diagram I can see that the relay likely won’t light the indicator.
The indicator comes on when the switched ground for the low beam is dropped, thus the indicator circuit becomes the ground and it pulls its power through the low beam filament.
If you wire fog lights in parallel with the low beams that may provide the necessary flow path.
The indicator comes on when the switched ground for the low beam is dropped, thus the indicator circuit becomes the ground and it pulls its power through the low beam filament.
If you wire fog lights in parallel with the low beams that may provide the necessary flow path.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Correct, That's what I am seeing too. As the LEDs will not do this. Is why we lost the indicator.
The Good news is my SuperBright LEDS are not polarity sensitive.
{From SB LEDS : That particular bulb is non-polarity sensitive, thus it would operate with a negative or positive ground.}They they work properly with positive or negative triggered systems.
Now that that is cleared up. I only have to fix the indicator now.
Using LED Fog lights in parallel I think I would have the same issue. Now if they were standard bulb fog lights in parallel you be 100% correct. Have to have the ability to let the current flow back through that filament.
So it looks like a resister is in my future to fix that indicator.
