Broken CV
- Thread starter Sleeter
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Napa has them for about 100$ they aren't as good as OEM thought.
It's also not that hard to rebuild. Heres a good link from the FJ forum
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...ics.html#/forumsite/20496/topics/50373?page=1
It's also not that hard to rebuild. Heres a good link from the FJ forum
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...ics.html#/forumsite/20496/topics/50373?page=1
gm350reratliff
New member
You could also check with CVJ axles. CVJ Axles - CV Axles & Steering Racks for all your needs
I don't remember how expensive they are but they seem to be better than anything from Autozone, NAPA, etc.
I don't remember how expensive they are but they seem to be better than anything from Autozone, NAPA, etc.
STX4Runner
New member
Or maybe find one from a salvage yard. I'd rather have a used OEM one that a crappy one from a parts store. Maybe pick up a spare or two if they're available.
Jono.ful
New member
Cvs are relatively cheap, dealer should have them for about $150, and the remanufactured ones from napa aren't bad either honestly.
If you're comfortable turning wrenches doing the re/re isn't bad either. There is a bit of a how to in my build thread. IIRC you'll need a 22mm socket, and pry bar is very helpful, this in addition to a set of jack stands and a decent rachet set. If you plan to do it yourself, pick up an inner and outer axle seal too
If you're comfortable turning wrenches doing the re/re isn't bad either. There is a bit of a how to in my build thread. IIRC you'll need a 22mm socket, and pry bar is very helpful, this in addition to a set of jack stands and a decent rachet set. If you plan to do it yourself, pick up an inner and outer axle seal too
The axle end nut is 35mm. My CV has a bit of play at the differential end and always has.
Why do you suspect the CV? What kind of horrible noises are you hearing? There are a lot of moving parts in the front IFS assembly that could be the culprit. Better to diagnose it further now then tear it all down and replace something that's not broken.
Why do you suspect the CV? What kind of horrible noises are you hearing? There are a lot of moving parts in the front IFS assembly that could be the culprit. Better to diagnose it further now then tear it all down and replace something that's not broken.
Sleeter
New member
When I grab the cv driver side shaft and move it has at lease 1/2" of play, the passenger has maybe a mm play. The CV is tight against the diff. In 4 low the front left tire wouldn't move and the there is a clicking grinding noise. Turning left it pops and grinds very loudly.
yotantexas
Member
You are probably correct. You will need a 35mm socket, ball joint separator for the tie rod, 17 & 19mm socket, cotter pin and something to pull the axle out of the housing. Most common is a pry bar, small sledge, or a length of synthetic winch line to pull on it between the axle and diff housing.
wfo9
New member
I think all your numbers are off...
$150.. Where is that because I want to buy an OEM CV for $150. 22mm?
OP, you can get a cheap CV from the auto parts store and throw it on.. It's really not a bad job at all. Long term, the OEMs are much better. The 2010+ CVs are suppose to be much better although the 09 and earlier ones are the exact same dimensions and will fit (that is what the auto parts store will sell you)
This video explains the swap pretty well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHY1rpRD11g It can be done in 30min if you know exactly what to do. 1 -2hrs first time. You don't really need to drain the diff.. If the truck is tilted correctly when pulling the old one. most of the oil when stay in the diff. Can't say for sure since I have not actually done it that way.
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doberman_baby
New member
Hmm. My 2010 is having this similar clunk sound, sporadically when turning left. Inspected and tested by dealer and heard the minor noise but unable to find it ... checked brakes (as recently done), suspension, axle etc. Likely something starting to wear out. My guess is probably around the CV axle joint area. Hope not too pricey, like $1k.
wfo9
New member
Congratulations. you are one of the first few to post here about breaking one on the newer platform... No doubt, they can break though.. And you did it to a 2016. I assume you like the skinny pedal. :attention:might want to lighten up on the throttle a little.LOL I'm just assuming it happened that way.
Sleeter
New member
This is way different than just a clunk. Blown CV clank is loud enough to make you think your front wheel just came off, and there is a constant grinding and vibration.
The failure happened on a very technical section of trail when a stump was stuck between my rear axle and muffler. Additionally my front drivers side wheel was unloaded floating about 1/4" off the dirt and when I put it in reverse and turned the wheel it made contact with a large bolder and that is when I heard a loud bang. The CV in this situation was at it weakest and it broke. This failure was 100% my fault and could have been prevented if I would have accepted I needed yanked off the stump instead of trying to do it with the relatively weak IFS.
Sleeter
New member
Yeah kinda sorta, just enough of a throttle bump and bang. Wheel was unloaded and caught the edge or a bolder while throttle bumping in reverse. Thanks for the link to the video.
Jono.ful
New member
Yep, shouldn't give technical advice after that many beers. Axle nut is 35mm, and an OEM shaft is gonna run closer to $300. I bought a napa unit for 200ish here, 150 usd seemed about right for the same
wfo9
New member
Reverse can be hell on them..(especially going up hill and turning). I'm always careful in reverse... Even the old Toyota solid axles are weak in reverse because of the birfield joint up front. So my mindset is always to be cautious with reverse. I cringe when I see someone pulling someone out in reverse, unless it is a super easy pull.
Front tires are usually have limited traction due to weight transfer... In reverse... the front more or less becomes the rear in terms of bite.. and it just does not have the strength of the rear. .
