Building, Driving and Adventuring the MTN4RNR

LED interior upgrade & Puddle Lamps

This weekend I completed my stock interior lighting and puddle lamp LED upgrade. All of the bulbs that I have installed so far have been Philips brand, which carry the same light temperature of 6000K, and a 12 year guaranteed warranty. Bulbs were sourced from [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION]​

Parts used:
- Philips Vision LED 194
- Philips Vision Festoon LED 3022
- Stone Brewing Enjoy By Black IPA



I followed a tutorial from Precision LED on YouTube, which shows how to access all of the stock bulbs.

Map lights before

DSC08929_zpsjupjal58.jpg~original

Map lights after
DSC08932_zpspiz9us9v.jpg~original

Dome light before
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Dome light after
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Door lights before
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Philips bulb orientation in housing (so that they work)
DSC08950_zpsnsamw6qs.jpg~original

Door lights after
DSC08955_zpssghik0wf.jpg~original

Puddle lights before
DSC08960_zpsoassgsrf.jpg~original

I followed this thread post to get to the puddle lamp bulbs.
Puddle lights after
DSC08963_zpsjf8cmxqz.jpg~original


Impressions
The 194's are great. Very bright, very well build with an even light distribution. I have been impressed by these, and will continue to use them as my go-to mini wedge. The festoon bulb, as I stated in my rear hatch LED upgrade post, is dimmer than I would have hoped for. The color matches the new lights perfectly though, and I don't think that I have lost any useable light over the halogens. I will give it some time and see how I like the output before deciding if I want anything brighter.

Next (and last) interior lighting upgrade will be an auxiliary led lighting set up for the cargo area.

More to come...
 
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Gobi Ladder

Installed a previously loved Gobi ladder on the rig this weekend before heading to the snow. Since I bought it used and the supplied adhesive strips were shot, I used 3M extreme fasteners (aka badass Velcro) to secure the ladder top plate and the lower attachment point instead of double sided adhesive. The weight rating is the same as the 3M extreme double sided tape, but this allows me to remove the ladder if I need to by unbolting the lower bracket and pulling it off. So far so good! No flexing or moving while climbing! Three strips, 4" in length on the top plate and a strip that is the width of the ladder on the bottom of the hatch. Because the fasteners are thicker than the standard adhesive, the lower clamp BARELY fits over the hatch lip. Definitely an oh sh*t moment when I thought it wouldn't fit. Whew! I got this in prep for the new full length roof rack, stay tuned for that!

DSC08965_zpszroe3rxk.jpg~original

 
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I gifted myself a set of [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] Xtreme HID's for the low beams on the 4Runner. I really like the ability to see as much as I can on the road, and once I saw the light output from my dad's GX (which is LED, but still much brighter) I knew that an upgrade was in order. After reviewing my options, I settled on the Xtreme HID kit, with the Philips bulbs.​

Parts used:
- Xenon Depot Xtreme HID H11 kit
- Drill of choice
- Milwaukee #9 step drill bit
- Scotch Extreme Fasterners
- Knee Deep Brewing Midnight Hoppyness


Everything laid out (including the fuses, which I didn't use)
image_zpsvwcd93wf.jpeg~original


I took off the plastic cover for the radiator, not knowing whether or not I would need to. To install the kit, you do not NEED to pull this piece off, but in the end I used two of the fastener holes on the outside to zip tie the wiring into a secure position.
image_zps8ultq36w.jpeg~original


I removed the negative battery terminal, and removed one side of the battery restraint to move it towards the engine, giving me a bit more space to access the light housing
image_zps009gr61v.jpeg~original


I removed the dust cap covers and drilled two 1-1/16" holes dead center. I used a Milwaukee #9 step drill. I have found that they work very well with plastic materials and producing a very clean hole. It also allows you to start with a slightly smaller hole and make it gradually larger to make sure there is a snug fit. Drilling is always hard to do on a new truck, but that's what the beer is for.
image_zps2gy9supo.jpeg~original


I then fed the wiring through the hole, and secured the grommet. Interestingly, I read many on this forum that didn't like the idea of drilling the hole in the cap because it would compromise the sealing ability of the housing (dust, water, etc.). What I found interesting was that in the bottom of the same housing, Toyota uses the same style grommet boot to bring the factory wiring into the housing. It would seem that this kit would not compromise any of the sealing ability in the housing than what Toyota had already installed. I didn't snap a photo, but I might remove the cap and take one to add later.
image_zpsqz7raqez.jpeg~original


I then installed the bulbs into the housing and hooked everything up to determine if I would need to reverse the polarity on the harness as indicated in the instructions.
image_zps6okn423j.jpeg~original

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image_zpsj8hylxvo.jpeg~original


Turns out the system fired right up with no wire swap needed.
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Clean up time. I used Scotch Extreme Fasteners to secure the ballast and harness to the inner fender sheet metal. The kit came with a double sided 3M product, but I like the idea of being able to remove the ballasts easily if needed down the road. They are rated to hold 2lbs/sq. inch and seem to hold very well. After driving around, they show no signs of moving.
image_zpsz1n2mrzh.jpeg~original


Passenger side (note the zip tie holding the harness to the radiator valence/support as mentioned in the beginning)
image_zpskeyqj6i6.jpeg~original


Driver side (note the zip tie holding the harness to the radiator valence/support as mentioned in the beginning)
image_zpsawoza0nf.jpeg~original


Now for some comparisons

Before (no fogs)
image_zps5hbd1ykl.jpeg~original

After (no fogs)
image_zps1vukulrj.jpeg~original


Before (no fogs)
image_zpsblcmhxi6.jpeg~original

After (no fogs)
image_zpswwxnwxbr.jpeg~original


Before (sorry I don't have an identical head-on shot, but this is the best I have)
image_zpsd5pe3d5q.jpeg~original

After
image_zps24dayqc2.jpeg~original


The photos show some of the difference, but don't do enough justice. Driving on the road, this upgrade is something that should have been included from the factory. Night and day difference. I am very happy with the product, and the outcome. Thanks [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] for the great product!



Next up, Amber LED fog upgrade...

More to come...

Did this Saturday, but I'll see your Midnight Hoppiness and raise you a Hoptologist! Nice write-up, only took a couple hours of screwing around to get it done.

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Did this Saturday, but I'll see your Midnight Hoppiness and raise you a Hoptologist! Nice write-up, only took a couple hours of screwing around to get it done.

View attachment 188713

Awesome! One of my fav's for sure! I have a Hop Derranged chilling in the fridge currently. I need to have a free schedule for that one :whoo:

Also, about to get my Technician license next month. Now to get a HT. Looking at a Yaesu FT-60R. Seems like it's a good starter radio, and will last a very long time!
 
Are you going with the full length? Can't wait to see pics either way. Looking for a low profile flat rack.

It will be a full length rack, and install will be within a month if all goes to plan. I will have an extensive install and product review on this build following installation! And plenty of photos to get everyone thru the work day :biggrin2:
 
Installing the [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] Philips HIDs today using your template. Thanks for the writeup and pics.

Quick question, I'm planning on doing it pretty much exactly the way you did as far as the dust cover drilling, but I wanted to ask: you mentioned that Toyota used a similar grommet in the bottom of the dust cover to bring the stock wiring through. Is there a way to bring the HID wires in through that hole instead?
 
Installing the [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] Philips HIDs today using your template. Thanks for the writeup and pics.

Quick question, I'm planning on doing it pretty much exactly the way you did as far as the dust cover drilling, but I wanted to ask: you mentioned that Toyota used a similar grommet in the bottom of the dust cover to bring the stock wiring through. Is there a way to bring the HID wires in through that hole instead?

Yes, you can, but the issue becomes that that if you move the OEM connector outside of the housing, it is not a weatherproof connector. If you felt like cutting the wiring and installing weatherproof connectors on both side you could. I though about it for about 3 seconds, since I have several weatherproof connectors, but I didn't want to bastardize the OEM harness.
 
Yes, you can, but the issue becomes that that if you move the OEM connector outside of the housing, it is not a weatherproof connector. If you felt like cutting the wiring and installing weatherproof connectors on both side you could. I though about it for about 3 seconds, since I have several weatherproof connectors, but I didn't want to bastardize the OEM harness.

Thankyousir.
 
Installing the [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] Philips HIDs today using your template. Thanks for the writeup and pics.

Quick question, I'm planning on doing it pretty much exactly the way you did as far as the dust cover drilling, but I wanted to ask: you mentioned that Toyota used a similar grommet in the bottom of the dust cover to bring the stock wiring through. Is there a way to bring the HID wires in through that hole instead?

Glad to help out! Some days when I come to the forum, I learn. Some I teach. It's a pretty cool cycle that we have going on here!

From what I could see, there are (and I can't remember the specific amount) X amount of wires for the factory harness, and X amount of perforations in the grommet. Short answer, no. I don't think you can combo route through the existing grommet and stay as dust tight as with the supplied grommet with the Xenon Depot kit. Take a swig of beer (or maybe not considering its 7am) and drill that dust cap!

Let me know if you have any questions and good luck with the install! :guitar3:
 
Yes, you can, but the issue becomes that that if you move the OEM connector outside of the housing, it is not a weatherproof connector. If you felt like cutting the wiring and installing weatherproof connectors on both side you could. I though about it for about 3 seconds, since I have several weatherproof connectors, but I didn't want to bastardize the OEM harness.

tumblr_m32kepvOMy1qcolf5o2_r1_250.gif

:bounce:
 
It's done!

I'm not sure whats happening with embedded pictures on the forum today, but of course it'd be the day that I decide to tackle an install that all the pictures aren't working for me. :redbrick:

Anyway, I just wanted to mention that I went to 4 different hardware stores searching for a step drill bit that wasn't $50- can't justify spending that much on a bit that I only plan to use twice, and on 1/8" thick plastic to boot. I decided to take a risk and try a standard 1" hole drill ($5), and long story short my holes are nowhere near as pretty / clean as yours but the grommet fits flush and snug and the lights look killer.

Anyway sorry for the thread hijack and thanks again, man. :cheers:
 
It's done!

I'm not sure whats happening with embedded pictures on the forum today, but of course it'd be the day that I decide to tackle an install that all the pictures aren't working for me. :redbrick:

Anyway, I just wanted to mention that I went to 4 different hardware stores searching for a step drill bit that wasn't $50- can't justify spending that much on a bit that I only plan to use twice, and on 1/8" thick plastic to boot. I decided to take a risk and try a standard 1" hole drill ($5), and long story short my holes are nowhere near as pretty / clean as yours but the grommet fits flush and snug and the lights look killer.

Anyway sorry for the thread hijack and thanks again, man. :cheers:

Awesome [MENTION=133649]Go2Slp[/MENTION] ! Sorry about the photos, but glad you were able to make it work. The instructions aren't very specific towards the 4Runner. I found myself back and forth to the forum checking out different installs.

Yeah, the step drill is pricy, but I figure that if I have to drill holes in my rig, I may as well try to make them as clean as possible so I cry less. Plus they work for metal too, always a plus. Whatever gets the job done at the end of the day though. Plus, with the grommet, you'll never see the difference between yours and mine!

Enjoy the light! They're kick ass
:cool:
 
When you bring the new truck home, and the lift gate doesn't clear the overhang... Custom limiting strap, installed. Uses a Nite-Ize CamJam XT on the d-ring in the corner, and a carabiner attached to the lift gate strap.

Function>Form

IMG_4647_zpsh2128rfk.jpg~original

I just joined today, so this is my first post. I have a two week old 2016 Trail in the same color as yours, so I'm sure this wont be the last time I visit your thread.

My tailgate hits the garage door when opened, so I've just been slowly letting it kiss the door when opening. Your idea rocks though, I'm putting that together first thing tonight when I get home! I was going to say it'll be the first mod, but I already added OEM running boards due to the wife's request. Thanks for the idea.
 

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