4Running303
New member
Nice!
I'm at 8 threads showing on my Kings...rides nice at that height...probably be even better at 6.
I'm at 8 threads showing on my Kings...rides nice at that height...probably be even better at 6.
Building, Driving and Adventuring the MTN4RNR
- Thread starter MTN4RNR
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MTN4RNR
New member
Good to know! I’m going to start a thread or something in my own thread that can document people’s experiences with “thread count” and ride height/comfort. I found that there is information scattered throughout the forum, but something consolidated would be nice. Going to target 8 threads, then if I need to I can back off one or two more while they’re on the truck.
nb rob
New member
sounds like a great idea for a thread. I know exactly what you mean about the scattered info.
I've got 6 and 8 threads to accommodate the slight lean from KDSS. It's been over a year, and I can't remember which side is 6 and which one is 8.... I know that if I pull in to my driveway it leans one way, and if I back in it leans the other. This is good enough for me.
I will probably lower mine a couple turns as well when I redo the seals on the coilovers.
[MENTION=129593]MTN4RNR[/MENTION], if I might make a suggestion, put some boots on those rear shock shafts.
I pitted mine badly in one awesome summer, and had to replace the shafts. I wound up buying a second set so that I could work on them when I had time.
I now have the boots pulled down so that they cover the bottom spherical bearing. In my experience, this is the first issue you will have with these awesome shocks; the lower spherical bearing on the rears takes a serious beating from regular gravel / salt / sand
The boots in the photo are cut lengthwise, and zip-tied top and bottom. They can be inspected easily from the back, and the split allows moisture to dry out (and easy installation). $10 boots. procomp from the offroad walmart.
I didn't mean to derail your thread-- I'm just hoping a bit of prevention can save you the headache I had.
I've got 6 and 8 threads to accommodate the slight lean from KDSS. It's been over a year, and I can't remember which side is 6 and which one is 8.... I know that if I pull in to my driveway it leans one way, and if I back in it leans the other. This is good enough for me.
I will probably lower mine a couple turns as well when I redo the seals on the coilovers.
[MENTION=129593]MTN4RNR[/MENTION], if I might make a suggestion, put some boots on those rear shock shafts.
I pitted mine badly in one awesome summer, and had to replace the shafts. I wound up buying a second set so that I could work on them when I had time.
I now have the boots pulled down so that they cover the bottom spherical bearing. In my experience, this is the first issue you will have with these awesome shocks; the lower spherical bearing on the rears takes a serious beating from regular gravel / salt / sand
The boots in the photo are cut lengthwise, and zip-tied top and bottom. They can be inspected easily from the back, and the split allows moisture to dry out (and easy installation). $10 boots. procomp from the offroad walmart.
I didn't mean to derail your thread-- I'm just hoping a bit of prevention can save you the headache I had.
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MTN4RNR
New member
Yes, it seems that many people are happy with the 6-8 turn range. I have rear coils that compensate for KDSS lean, so in theory my coilovers should have the same preload. But it’d great to hear another set of numbers.
That’s a great suggestion, and something I have heard from others as well. Why King doesn’t provide a boot option is beyond me, especially with low hanging fruit like that. I’m looking into a couple of “shaft shield” options first to see if there is one that will work well. BPF just came out with one that protects the lower joint and the first few inches of the shaft. But the boot might be cheap insurance for any type of a desert trip where they can get chewed up rather quickly. I’ll post back with what I end up doing :thumb3:
So sad we have to cover up that pretty blue
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LawnDart
Senior Member
Yes, it seems that many people are happy with the 6-8 turn range. I have rear coils that compensate for KDSS lean, so in theory my coilovers should have the same preload. But it’d great to hear another set of numbers.
That’s a great suggestion, and something I have heard from others as well. Why King doesn’t provide a boot option is beyond me, especially with low hanging fruit like that. I’m looking into a couple of “shaft shield” options first to see if there is one that will work well. BPF just came out with one that protects the lower joint and the first few inches of the shaft. But the boot might be cheap insurance for any type of a desert trip where they can get chewed up rather quickly. I’ll post back with what I end up doing :thumb3:
So sad we have to cover up that pretty blue
Because boots tend to trap dirt and moisture. Rememberer these are racing shocks and not commercial vehicle shocks, so the mindset is that they'll get chewed up and can be rebuilt.
It's just a different mentality.
MTN4RNR
New member
You’re right on that one. Maybe what I should have said is that King should figure out a better way to protect their shafts, whether that be a shield, a boot, or whatever. I get the racing application and understand what their rebuild cycles typically are in that arena, but these are also OEM performance replacements designed for the enthusiast. And while I bought these shocks with the knowledge that they will need regular maintenance and rebuilding in their lifecycle, it seems a bit short sighted that the manufacturer would leave that shaft as exposed as it is for this application. But hey, that’s what the aftermarket is for, and I knew that going into it. The benefits definitely outweigh the shortcomings! :clap2:
LawnDart
Senior Member
But they're not OEM replacement shocks, so once you think of them like that they're racing pedigree shocks and as such taking hits on parts of the shafts is kind of the cost of doing business.
Same with FOX. Best thing to do is just keep an eye on wear parts and eventually have them cleaned up.
Same with FOX. Best thing to do is just keep an eye on wear parts and eventually have them cleaned up.
nb rob
New member
cost of doing business
yes they are OEM replacement shocks. They're literally called "OEM series". King designed them for daily drivers to suit our 3 ton SUVs that are also not meant for racing.
Just because they're blue doesn't mean that I should be fine with wrecking a set of shafts after running a gravel road.
And just because they're blue doesn't mean they're for racing. they have the "pure race" series for that.
edit: sorry----not my thread, and I don't want to get in to a dance with a very hardcore racer
yes they are OEM replacement shocks. They're literally called "OEM series". King designed them for daily drivers to suit our 3 ton SUVs that are also not meant for racing.
Just because they're blue doesn't mean that I should be fine with wrecking a set of shafts after running a gravel road.
And just because they're blue doesn't mean they're for racing. they have the "pure race" series for that.
edit: sorry----not my thread, and I don't want to get in to a dance with a very hardcore racer
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LawnDart
Senior Member
Okay then. Or whatever.
A good investment is the FJ Toyman lower shock guards. But this won't prevent against sand/gravel blasting, it's more important to prevent the attachment point from being damaged by a rock.
Why the ICON style guards is less than optimal is that those are known to be bent backwards, which can then impact against the bottom of the shock body.
No free lunch on these things.
http://fjtoymanoffroad.com/products/
A good investment is the FJ Toyman lower shock guards. But this won't prevent against sand/gravel blasting, it's more important to prevent the attachment point from being damaged by a rock.
Why the ICON style guards is less than optimal is that those are known to be bent backwards, which can then impact against the bottom of the shock body.
No free lunch on these things.
http://fjtoymanoffroad.com/products/
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JSparky
New member
Looks great. Any word on the difference between CaliFab and MetalTech's rear lower control arms? Both can be had with Johnny Joints and are offset at the axle for long travel. CaliFab appears to use a step-down tube design? I was waiting on MetalTech for a sale to place an order but if there's a reason to consider CaliFab I'd be interested to hear.
As an aside to the exposed rear lower shocks, I recommend using anti-seize on those lower shock bolts, they'll corrode faster than just about anything else from my experience. May not show up for 100k miles but they can get pretty gnarly.
As an aside to the exposed rear lower shocks, I recommend using anti-seize on those lower shock bolts, they'll corrode faster than just about anything else from my experience. May not show up for 100k miles but they can get pretty gnarly.
JSparky
New member
FJ Toyman are good insurance. Here are mine after just 5k, kind of opens your eyes to the abuse down there. I need to hit this with some paint, it's too bad mud flaps have fallen out of vogue.
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CSM4runner
New member
mtn4runner- i'm looking for the exact same set up for my roof rack. I noticed in your thread you said "- Thule rack [transfer from old truck]" do you know rack attachment and crossbars in inches? sorry in advance if you stated it somewhere in one of your threads but you have 67 pages....
Thanks,
David
Thanks,
David
MTN4RNR
New member
[MENTION=89562]bimrunner[/MENTION] would be able to give you a better run down between MT and Califab. From what I can tell, the Califab set is beefier than the MT's and the Johnny Joints are larger on the CF version. I know Ben switched because the MT's limited his flex with the long travel and CF had the right solution. Chance at Califab does some great work, and if I wouldn't have been offered the MT's from Ben, I would have likely gone with the Califab links.
Definitely noted on the anti-seize. Last think I want to do it hack frozen bolts.
These are on my list, as well as ABS guards after talking with [MENTION=124732]LawnDart[/MENTION] more about his experiences with the two. I secretly want to figure out a "rock flap" that could work on the 4R but that's just another silly project.
Happy to take some measurements when I return home later today. Amazing that there are 67 pages on this thread already, time does fly :thumb3:
bimrunner
New member
Califab is a beefier LCA with just a slight difference that helped me get the axle exactly where I needed it for my flex and articulation with the combo of my specific armor. The LCA is not a huge differential itself, although the johnny joint is slightly larger and the zerk grease points are more accessible without dropping the LCA completely out to regrease. MT has their placement of the zerk in such a manner that you do have to drop one end to grease (not a huge deal and a good time to put anti-seize...). For me, the biggest issue was my UCA. I had MT and they contacted the top of my gas tank at full droop and articulation. Califab's design is just enough different that I no longer press on the top of the tank. I also had a heck of a time with my driver side UCA bolt... even broke 2 Johnny joints but hey, I'm a little rough sometimes... YMMV and I wouldn't have swapped just the lowers out. I did a complete setup including panhard and I have a funny thing about matching for some strange reason (I guess slight ocd?).:violin:
JSparky
New member
Got it, this is good to know thank you. The UCA's contacting the gas tank rings a bell, it's been awhile since I looked at this but have to get a solution rolling soon. Control arms are probably my least favorite thing to work on so being able to service the zerks without dropping them is value right there. It's got to look pretty and match! Thanks again.
MTN4RNR
New member
CSM4runner
New member
MTN4RNR-
Happy to take some measurements when I return home later today. Amazing that there are 67 pages on this thread already, time does fly :thumb3:[/QUOTE]
Hate being a pest but were you able to get the measurements?
David
Happy to take some measurements when I return home later today. Amazing that there are 67 pages on this thread already, time does fly :thumb3:[/QUOTE]
Hate being a pest but were you able to get the measurements?
David
MTN4RNR
New member
David, good morning!
Sorry for the delay on my end. The bars are 58” and the fairing is 36”.
The is the setup that I have:
Thule Crossroads Rack
Let me know if you need anything else
Max
CSM4runner
New member
rockandroll
New member
This is such a fantastic build thread. Thank you for taking the time to document everything.
Awesome build!
Awesome build!
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