C vs. E?

M

mform

New member
I started to price out a tire upgrade today, and am taking the 'middle of the road' route with 275's. I dont plan to lift, but a slight size upgrade will look sharp, yet avoid rubbing issues. They will be either Cooper AT3s or Firestone Destination ATs.

So here's the rub [pun intended], my go-to tire place says both of the above are available in either C (6 ply) or E (10 ply) ranges, but not P. The manufacturer websites dont line up with that news btw.

Nonetheless, I know there has been a ton of discussion here about P vs. E, impact on ride comfort, durability, unsprung weight, etc., but not so much about C range tires.

What is the collective experience related to these factors, and any other comments that will help the selection process?

Thanks all
mike
 
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mform said:
I started to price out a tire upgrade today, and am taking the 'middle of the road' route with 275's. I dont plan to lift, but a slight size upgrade will look sharp, yet avoid rubbing issues. They will be either Cooper AT3s or Firestone Destination ATs.

So he's the rub [pun intended], my go-to tire place says both of the above are available in either C (6 ply) or E (10 ply) ranges, but not P. The manufacturer websites dont line up with that news btw.

Nonetheless, I know there has been a ton of discussion here about P vs. E, impact on ride comfort, durability, unsprung weight, etc., but not so much about C range tires.

What is the collective experience related to these factors, and any other comments that will help the selection process?

Thanks all
mike
Click to expand...


P < C < D < E

I had the stock P's and they were very cushy... Got BFG KO C's and they were a little more harsh, then moved to BFG KO D's and they were a little more harsh (with even less PSI) than the C's --- I'd *ASSUME* the E would be a tad more harsh that the D.
 
I have the BFG KO "E" and they are hard as $h!t, with those tires everything in your runner will rattle, and if it doesn't rattle now, it will eventually.

I really need to play with tire pressures on mine. Wouldn't buy them again.
 
Ducmonsta said:
Here's the equation:
P=C, E>C, therefore E>P.
Click to expand...

Great inputs all, and fast.

Avoiding a cement mixer-like, p!ssing-blood ride is important, but only a handful of folks have reported same........price is not a lot different.......will sleep on it and prob pull the trigger tomorrow.
 
mform said:
Great inputs all, and fast.

Avoiding a cement mixer-like, p!ssing-blood ride is important, but only a handful of folks have reported same........price is not a lot different.......will sleep on it and prob pull the trigger tomorrow.
Click to expand...


If they are the same size, I'd get the C's. The C's will be a decent amount (probably 8-10 lbs) lighter too. That results in a lot of extra unsprung weight if you go with the E's.

I noticed you said you are on stock suspension. The C's should ride pretty well. I ran my C's on stock suspension before upgrading to Bilstein, then to OME and stock on the C's was smoother for sure.
 
I just got the AT3 in a 275 "C" range, and although they are more stiff than the "P" load, they are not bad at all. In fact, I like the increased firmness when cornering and stopping. I think they are a big upgrade over the stock tires. I've not noticed any obvious road hum. I've towed with them no problem. And they look sharp. One beef: mine didn't balance so well. I've got 3 ounces on the left rear tire (seems like a lot to me), and I still have a slight steering wheel wobble between 55 and 70 mph,and now I pull to the left. I'll take them back this week, but I'm afraid I might need that back tire replaced. Or get them road-force balanced, see if that helps.
 
I bought the Cooper ATPs Load E in a 265 size a few weeks ago, the tires are noticable heavier but I'm getting used to the ride. No rattles and feel more planted. Took a .5 - 1 MPG hit with the heavier tires.
 
Has anyone tried running nitrogen in their tires. While at first I thought it was a big joke but my buddy who is a toyota mech. said try it. So I did on my tundra with 305/65/18 BFG's.

I run 40-50 psi nitrogen in them and they ride just like I was running 30 psi of air. While gas millage didn't change comfort of the ride did.
 
duckman06 said:
Has anyone tried running nitrogen in their tires. While at first I thought it was a big joke but my buddy who is a toyota mech. said try it. So I did on my tundra with 305/65/18 BFG's.

I run 40-50 psi nitrogen in them and they ride just like I was running 30 psi of air. While gas millage didn't change comfort of the ride did.
Click to expand...

Air is 78% nitrogen so I've always just figured it was a scam with a placebo effect.
 
Had BFG ATO's on my Taco in D, and they were harsh on my back at times. The good and bad of D IMO...

Good:

-Never had a flat, thick sidewalls
-Lasted over 60K miles

Bad:

-Stiff/Harsh response to bumps etc.
-Heavier, equaling less MPG

Currently have C rated BFG T/A KM's and the ride is great for me. Enough belt thickness to handle the occasional offroad venture with enough flex to afford street manners that don't harm your kidneys and lower back..
 
C tires are easier on fuel because there are not as heavy as E
E tires are stronger and more resistant to punctures.

So if you don't mind to spend a little bit more for tires and fuel or you often drive over sharp rocks - get E.

Otherwise buy C.
 
Nitrogen may be less affected by temp changes (more stable pressure) but with low PSI values I doubt much of a difference to justify the cost. Then there is the hassle of having some on hand to maintain the pressure you want. We use Nitrogen in our aircraft tires at 160 PSI for the mains; but it's more for safety (nitrogen does not support combustion) than a constant pressure. We check pressures everyday so maintaining a constant pressure over time isn't really the issue for them.
 
scanny said:
C tires are easier on fuel because there are not as heavy as E
E tires are stronger and more resistant to punctures.

So if you don't mind to spend a little bit more for tires and fuel or you often drive over sharp rocks - get E.

Otherwise buy C.
Click to expand...

Cooper customer service says that the C and E both weigh the same, right at about 52 pounds (as reference Stock Dunlops are 39 lbs per Tire Rack).

That didnt seem correct to me, so I emailed back to Cooper and they confirmed. Nonetheless, it'll be "C", but it does make me say hmmmmm.....?
 
mform said:
Cooper customer service says that the C and E both weigh the same, right at about 52 pounds (as reference Stock Dunlops are 39 lbs per Tire Rack).

That didnt seem correct to me, so I emailed back to Cooper and they confirmed. Nonetheless, it'll be "C", but it does make me say hmmmmm.....?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've gotten humorous emails from tire companies too.

52lbs sounds about right for the load E. I'd assume something more like mid to high 40s for the load C.
 
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