Calling All Kings: an informational survey

[ax2021]

As a follow-up note/question:



I noticed that after several weeks, the front suspension squeaks when it flexes. It does it both up and down. It sounds like if you had a wet tennis shoe and you twisted your foot back and forth on linoleum floor. At first, I thought it was a lack of grease on the UCA bushings, but I've greased them and the sound is still there. The sound started after a hard rain, if that means anything. It has remained constant since then. Prior to that rain, it was quiet.



Any suggestions?

I have same thing. Squky, crunchy sounds on left side only, and only after car wash or heavy rain. Went through every single bolt and nut on suspension everything was tided, greased UCA, sound still there. Went to Dealership for 15K service and lucky me my mechanic have aT4R too and he said that is normal for T4R as brakes 50% warned. They call it “ Floaty brake pads “ . Greased it on the side, put them back in, much better now. I think this is Toyota 4Runner breaks problem as they go down to 50%. Can you believe?


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[Grug556]

- 2016 LIMITED
- Compression Adjusters: yes
- KDSS: NO
- Spring rate: 550

- Height increase: Im up 1.5 in the front. Need to adjust more and add maybe 0.5-0.75 for drivers side lean.
- Major weight upgrades: Only sliders from Shrockworks so far
- Changes that you have made in preload or spring rate and why: stock rear spring
- A brief set of notes with your thoughts on your setup: Extremely satisfied. Only negative will be how the finish holds up to winter salt. I have covered them in fluid film. There are solid brown for the winter season.

I have the reservoirs and have the compression set at 8 front and 4 rear. 6 and 3 is also ok. Noticeable improvement over stock XREAS

Tires are 265/70/17 K02s.

 

[Sixgunz]

I have same thing. Squky, crunchy sounds on left side only, and only after car wash or heavy rain. Went through every single bolt and nut on suspension everything was tided, greased UCA, sound still there. Went to Dealership for 15K service and lucky me my mechanic have aT4R too and he said that is normal for T4R as brakes 50% warned. They call it “ Floaty brake pads “ . Greased it on the side, put them back in, much better now. I think this is Toyota 4Runner breaks problem as they go down to 50%. Can you believe?


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I would be inclined to believe this, but my rig only has 4000 miles on it. I doubt a brake issue would creep up this early. I'm wondering if the UCA bolts are too tight and the entire bushing is spinning rather than the UCA pivoting on the lubed bushing?

 

[4RVenture]

- Year, model: 2020 Offroad
- Compression Adjusters: yes
- KDSS: yes - Added Blackgate Customs KDSS swaybar spacer.
- Spring rate:550lb Fronts - Dobinsons Rear Coil Springs (C59-325)
- Preload: 7 Driver / 11 Passenger (Still not clear why Passenger side needed so many more.)
- Height increase: 2.75 (22.75") / 1.5 (24") / With 33" tires gained 4" clearance ground to lowest part of front skid.
- Major weight upgrades: Rock Sliders and Baja Utility Roof Rack
- Changes that you have made in preload or spring rate and why: Started with 7 threads on each side, but passenger side was 3/4 inch lower after a couple hundred miles of settling and an offroad day. Increased to 11 on Passenger side and front is level within 1/8in. Rear is level within 1/4in
- A brief set of notes with your thoughts on your setup: Ride is firm with 10 turns from soft on the adjusters. I wouldn't say rougher than before, but not plush. Turns and braking are much more flat. Wheeling on our rocky trails was a world of difference. Stock I was scraping on all kinds of stuff and having a hard time keeping up with a stock Rubicon. Now I am a ton more capable. Trails can still be challenging, but I'm not inching over every little rock listening for scrapes.

 

[Jargonyargon]

Thread revive with more side profile pics please.

This is good info for someone with Kings on order. Also would you guys recommend 600lb or 650lb spring up front for 2" lift with mid/moderate weight (sliders, full rack, skids, low pro bumper and light winch) with extended travel?

Thanks people.

 

[ax2021]

Thread revive with more side profile pics please.

This is good info for someone with Kings on order. Also would you guys recommend 600lb or 650lb spring up front for 2" lift with mid/moderate weight (sliders, full rack, skids, low pro bumper and light winch) with extended travel?

Thanks people.

I’ve got 650Lb with stock front and, well besides supercharger which is ~60lb, and really happy how they perform not harsh at all, and it gave me ~2.5” lift with 0 preload after coils settle. I think with your setup can’t go wrong with 650lb springs.


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[Jargonyargon]

I’ve got 650Lb with stock front and, well besides supercharger which is ~60lb, and really happy how they perform not harsh at all, and it gave me ~2.5” lift with 0 preload after coils settle. I think with your setup can’t go wrong with 650lb springs.


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I currently have the 600lb springs on order and have been debating switching them to 650lb. Big concern being a harsher ride for DD. Thinking I might call and switch now.

This might be a dumb question but does more preload usually result in a stiffer/harsher ride for DD, but obviously with spring rate taken into consideration? I have read this a few places. I would be ok with 2.5" lift up front with 650lb spring (but not above 2.5") at 0 preload if it resulted in better ride quality for DD as opposed to 600lb spring with more preload to get desired lift of 2-2.5" but resulted in more jarring ride for DD.

Any one with feedback? Thanks again.

 

[ax2021]

I currently have the 600lb springs on order and have been debating switching them to 650lb. Big concern being a harsher ride for DD. Thinking I might call and switch now.

This might be a dumb question but does more preload usually result in a stiffer/harsher ride for DD, but obviously with spring rate taken into consideration? I have read this a few places. I would be ok with 2.5" lift up front with 650lb spring (but not above 2.5") at 0 preload if it resulted in better ride quality for DD as opposed to 600lb spring with more preload to get desired lift of 2-2.5" but resulted in more jarring ride for DD.

Any one with feedback? Thanks again.

Yeah, that’s what I heard from the other guys, but can’t say for sure since never tried mine. And also the more preload you do the less travel you get, which is you going to need when you’re off-road. Good luck with your setup!


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[John-West]

- Year, model: 2016, TEP
- Compression Adjusters: yes (8 on-road, 0 off-road)
- KDSS: yes with Dobinsons 15mm rear spacer
- Spring rate: 550 front, 186 rear (Bilstein B12)
- Preload: 3
- Height increase: ~2.5” front & back including 285 tires
- Major weight upgrades: none
- Changes that you have made in preload or spring rate and why: could have used a few more turns of preload to level out when unloaded, but the rear should settle with time.
- A brief set of notes with your thoughts on your setup: went with the light springs to get as close to stock ride as possible, and I travel very light. This setup was created/recommended by Filthy Motorsports.

 

[Daikon]

Thread revive with more side profile pics please.

This is good info for someone with Kings on order. Also would you guys recommend 600lb or 650lb spring up front for 2" lift with mid/moderate weight (sliders, full rack, skids, low pro bumper and light winch) with extended travel?

Thanks people.

I have 550's, set at approx 2-2.25" over stock, rear eibach 1" spring

 

[nicsaav730]

- Year, model: 2018 TRD Pro
- Compression Adjusters: yes
- KDSS: no
- Spring rate: 650
- Preload: 0 on both sides
- Height increase: Not sure yet. Will update after breaking in
- Major weight upgrades: none
- Changes that you have made in preload or spring rate and why: none yet. Just installed
- A brief set of notes with your thoughts on your setup: Ride height is perfect for me after install. I also installed the icon 2" rear springs. I took it around the block to test it out on the speed bumps. It feels good and not harsh at all

 

[honda250xtitan]

- Year, model: 2016 trail
- Compression Adjusters: no front, yes rear
- KDSS: yes
- Spring rate: stock king rate
- Preload: (in turns / threads exposed), for driver and passenger sides 8-10 turns

- Major weight upgrades: none
- Changes that you have made in preload or spring rate and why: added a couple more turns on the passenger side to level it out. Front to rear is level with the rear using a 1.5 wheelers spring. overall its about 3/4" taller than the 6112's on top setting.
- A brief set of notes with your thoughts on your setup: Ride is quality is crazy nice. paired with Duro front bumps and King bumps in the back you can push the suspension to the limits and feel like it wants more.

 

[vipers28]

Year, model:'17 Pro
- Compression Adjusters: No
- KDSS: No (if yes, include any “KDSS Lean” compensating items like springs, or spacers, etc)
- Spring rate: Standard load
- Preload:
- Height increase:
- Major weight upgrades: Just sliders
- Changes that you have made in preload or spring rate and why: None
- A brief set of notes with your thoughts on your setup: Not sure if I am disappointed or not in this set up. Went with Kings on all 4 corners (rear are ext. travel), front feels good and performs- kinda laughed when I tried aggressive braking and the front dove down a bit, not as much as the Pro suspension but reading all these forums people have commented it's gone lol. Two issues with this setup is that it caused the front needle bearing noise that wasn't there until I installed it. My biggest issue is the rear set up, very harsh over holes and general uneven terrain. Not sure why. Seems the Timbren's are hitting all the time now and this makes a harsh ride on or off road. I still have the factory rear springs in and now considering changing them out but not sure to what. Reverse rake noted now, rear is a 1/2" lower than front but prior I had the normal rake. Also going to change out my tires next week from MT's and going to ATW3's, don't need them (mind you they have been awesome in all aspects for me).

 

[honda250xtitan]

Year, model:'17 Pro
- Compression Adjusters: No
- KDSS: No (if yes, include any “KDSS Lean” compensating items like springs, or spacers, etc)
- Spring rate: Standard load
- Preload:
- Height increase:
- Major weight upgrades: Just sliders
- Changes that you have made in preload or spring rate and why: None
- A brief set of notes with your thoughts on your setup: Not sure if I am disappointed or not in this set up. Went with Kings on all 4 corners (rear are ext. travel), front feels good and performs- kinda laughed when I tried aggressive braking and the front dove down a bit, not as much as the Pro suspension but reading all these forums people have commented it's gone lol. Two issues with this setup is that it caused the front needle bearing noise that wasn't there until I installed it. My biggest issue is the rear set up, very harsh over holes and general uneven terrain. Not sure why. Seems the Timbren's are hitting all the time now and this makes a harsh ride on or off road. I still have the factory rear springs in and now considering changing them out but not sure to what. Reverse rake noted now, rear is a 1/2" lower than front but prior I had the normal rake. Also going to change out my tires next week from MT's and going to ATW3's, don't need them (mind you they have been awesome in all aspects for me).

how close are the timbrens to the axle at ride height? IMO timbrens negate the advantages of good shocks. Timbrens are almost always in contact instead of allowing the shock to control the movement.

i've always had brake dive regardless of the shock setup. i think the forums exaggerate how much shocks can eliminate it.

Aftermarket shocks should soak up the hits and immediately stabilize the truck afterwards so this tends to make them feel stiff.

If youre running e rated tires make sure you air them appropriately, like 35psi.

 

[vipers28]

Thanks for the reply. I thought about pulling the Timbren's off and see how it does. They are about 3/4" off the axle right now. Thoughts on springs? My e tires are at 35psi right now and still rides rough.

how close are the timbrens to the axle at ride height? IMO timbrens negate the advantages of good shocks. Timbrens are almost always in contact instead of allowing the shock to control the movement.

i've always had brake dive regardless of the shock setup. i think the forums exaggerate how much shocks can eliminate it.

Aftermarket shocks should soak up the hits and immediately stabilize the truck afterwards so this tends to make them feel stiff.

If youre running e rated tires make sure you air them appropriately, like 35psi.

 

[honda250xtitan]

Thanks for the reply. I thought about pulling the Timbren's off and see how it does. They are about 3/4" off the axle right now. Thoughts on springs? My e tires are at 35psi right now and still rides rough.

stock springs are softest. pull the timbrens and see how it does. replace with stock GX bumps or Durobumps. Anything that doesn't limit up travel. Stock bumps work but they are rock solid and not progressive at all

 

[usdmej]

anybody know what the stock spring rate is?

curious how it compares to the options King sells (550# to as high as 700# from what i've seen)

 

[ax2021]

anybody know what the stock spring rate is?

curious how it compares to the options King sells (550# to as high as 700# from what i've seen)

Stock rate is 550.


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[meeksodorifto]

stock springs are softest. pull the timbrens and see how it does. replace with stock GX bumps or Durobumps. Anything that doesn't limit up travel. Stock bumps work but they are rock solid and not progressive at all

I have the same issue as the guy above. Fronts are plush and nice, regardless of terrain but rears are harsh..expansion gaps, potholes on the road or forestry roads. Harsh.

Funny enough, I run the same setup as you, t13s, durobumps; I've gone as far as removing the RSB. Taking off the rear sway bar gave the best results but still harsh, albeit a bit less than before. Hard to describe it other than saying..it's "jolty". It always feels like the rears are fighting the fronts.

I got the toytec spacers prior and took that off to get durobumps thinking that was it. Nope.

I'm curious to see hear your feedback as we have similar setups. How much space do u have between your durobumps and the axle. At this point I might just take the durobumps off and reinstall the stock ones and go from there.

 

[honda250xtitan]

I have the same issue as the guy above. Fronts are plush and nice, regardless of terrain but rears are harsh..expansion gaps, potholes on the road or forestry roads. Harsh.

Funny enough, I run the same setup as you, t13s, durobumps; I've gone as far as removing the RSB. Taking off the rear sway bar gave the best results but still harsh, albeit a bit less than before. Hard to describe it other than saying..it's "jolty". It always feels like the rears are fighting the fronts.

I got the toytec spacers prior and took that off to get durobumps thinking that was it. Nope.

I'm curious to see hear your feedback as we have similar setups. How much space do u have between your durobumps and the axle. At this point I might just take the durobumps off and reinstall the stock ones and go from there.

i'm running king hydraulic bump stops in the rear actually. I have them set up to engage ~2" before the shock bottoms out so the bump stop bottoms out right before the shock does. So i have lots of space.

how do they feel offroad with bigger hits? If you have a little bit of weight in the back does it make a big difference? small stuff like expansion joints are usually tire/sidewall. once you actually get some axle movement then its up to the shock valving to control the spring movement.

i run them on the softest setting. I'm not sure if the softest setting is what the non adjusters are set at from King or what. (front are non adjusters)