Can't get rear spacer in for nothing!

B

Blue15

Member
Want underneath today got all the lines disconnected across the axle, dropped the bar, shock off, and I'll be dammed if I can't get the 4R high enough to get the spring with 1"cornfed spacer back in.

Take a short break here look it over and re-group, I sure don't want to re-assemble without the spacers, because I have front 5100 adjustables going in tomorrow at the dealer.
 
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With the axle dropped, take a jack and lift up one side, this will cause the other side to drop down and you can fit the spring and spacer in.
 
I put a cornfed 3/4" spacer in the rear. I had to pull down on the axle and I also compressed the spring. It was a PITA. I put 5100's up front at .85 and I have a 10mm spacer I'm thinking about trading out for the 3/4".
 
Must compress one side of axle and drop other. Sometimes remove LCAs. Worst case compress spring on bench and strap it. Then release after weight of vehicle on it.
 
My method of choice is [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION]'s rear spring removal Special Service Tool (SST #12345-67890):
rear_SST_zps5a770e0b.jpg~original



If you have KDSS, did you disconnect?
 
Getting spring out piece of cake. Had drivers spring out, just couldn't jack up enought to re-insert spring with spacer on it. Should try the SST!
 
Blue15 said:
Getting spring out piece of cake. Had drivers spring out, just couldn't jack up enought to re-insert spring with spacer on it. Should try the SST!
Click to expand...

I got it out easily without the jack, but I used it to install the spring and spacer, made life easier. He calls it the "removal" tool, but it works just as well for installing. I didn't have a scissor jack, I used the stock "bottle" jack.
 
I just installed a trim spacer on my OME 898 springs. These springs are much stiffer and taller than factory coils. All I did was jack the rear end up from under the differential. Place two floor jacks, one on each side, under the frame rails towards the rear. Remove lower shock mounts. Disconnect KDSS bar. Lower the floor jack and the coils should damn near fall out at that point. If you need to, use the floor Jack and raise the opposite side of the axle that you are working on. This will give you a ton of room to work with. No need for spring compressors.
 
jbstrd said:
I just installed a trim spacer on my OME 898 springs. These springs are much stiffer and taller than factory coils. All I did was jack the rear end up from under the differential. Place two floor jacks, one on each side, under the frame rails towards the rear. Remove lower shock mounts. Disconnect KDSS bar. Lower the floor jack and the coils should damn near fall out at that point. If you need to, use the floor Jack and raise the opposite side of the axle that you are working on. This will give you a ton of room to work with. No need for spring compressors.
Click to expand...

I didn't have both shocks off, I was attempting one side at a time. Wasn't sure about taking both shocks off and dropping the entirety. I was worried about over dropping even with all the lines unclipped/unbolted and bar dropped per the http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/154230-how-lift-installation-kdss-equipped-vehicles.html thread. Was worried about stressing forward drive line stuff dropping to far. Was I worried for nothing? Not to mention there is a harness that connects to top area of rear diff, and not a lot of extra travel on that line, can that be disconnected?

Anyway had to button it up, wife needs to get groceries, since stores were closed yesterday due to storm power outages. Try again another day. Will get the fronts done tomorrow at dealer and go from there.
 
Blue15 said:
I didn't have both shocks off, I was attempting one side at a time. Wasn't sure about taking both shocks off and dropping the entirety. I was worried about over dropping even with all the lines unclipped/unbolted and bar dropped per the http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/154230-how-lift-installation-kdss-equipped-vehicles.html thread. Was worried about stressing forward drive line stuff dropping to far. Was I worried for nothing? Not to mention there is a harness that connects to top area of rear diff, and not a lot of extra travel on that line, can that be disconnected?

Anyway had to button it up, wife needs to get groceries, since stores were closed yesterday due to storm power outages. Try again another day. Will get the fronts done tomorrow at dealer and go from there.
Click to expand...

You should pay attention to the lines, but you should definitely undo both shocks. Keep the jack under the axle if you are worried about the axle drooping too far. I did not have any issues when I let it drop all of the way with the shocks and KDSS undone.
 
1. You absolutely have to disconnect sway bar for this method. I didn't, and almost broke the link.
2. Disconnect both shocks.
3. No need to disconnect pan hard bar.
4. Use the OEM bottle jack and a small piece of wood (I had a 1x3 about 6" long). Put the jack on the axle with the piece of wood between the jack and the bump stop. I tried without the wood but the rubber kept deflecting sideways. Jack the axle down until you can get the coil + spacer back in. I used this method to install Daystar 1.5" spacers, so a 1" spacer should be just as easy. I took a picture of the setup, but I can't upload from here.
 
jwkilgore said:
1. You absolutely have to disconnect sway bar for this method. I didn't, and almost broke the link.
2. Disconnect both shocks.
3. No need to disconnect pan hard bar.
4. Use the OEM bottle jack and a small piece of wood (I had a 1x3 about 6" long). Put the jack on the axle with the piece of wood between the jack and the bump stop. I tried without the wood but the rubber kept deflecting sideways. Jack the axle down until you can get the coil + spacer back in. I used this method to install Daystar 1.5" spacers, so a 1" spacer should be just as easy. I took a picture of the setup, but I can't upload from here.
Click to expand...

This is the Pan Hard Bar? You say remove this as well? Thanks for the awesome PICS [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION]
 

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Blue15 said:
This is the Pan Hard Bar? You say remove this as well? Thanks for the awesome PICS [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION]
Click to expand...

Yes. The bar that runs across the back from the frame to the axle is the pan hard bar. It's what holds the axle centered under the truck.
 
3wbdriver said:
Yes. The bar that runs across the back from the frame to the axle is the pan hard bar. It's what holds the axle centered under the truck.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

Dropped off at the shop this morning to have the front 5100's put on. Asked them to go ahead and do the spacers. And getting the free 5000 mile service done.
 
cjacob316 said:
My method of choice is [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION]'s rear spring removal Special Service Tool (SST #12345-67890):
rear_SST_zps5a770e0b.jpg~original
Click to expand...
Oops... this pic was blocked by my work firewall. It's exactly what I was describing except I used the emergency bottle jack.
 
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