Cel

[Supra725]

So, before I left for Australia.. The runner threw a Check Engine Light..

fast foward a little bit..

Pulled the Codes..

(Second Check) P1130, P1130(PD), (First Check) P1133, P1133(PD) and P1135..

I cleared them all but the P1130 and P1130(PD) came back within 30 minutes..

Have any of you guys had this problem before..

I done a little research and it is either the A/F Sensor, MAF or o2 sensors..

Should I try and clean the MAF a little or try something else?

thanks.

 

[notrayray]

From the repair manual........

DTC No. DTC Detecting Condition Trouble Area
Voltage output* of A/F sensor remains at 3.8 V or more, or
2.8 V or less, during engine running after engine is warmed
up (2 trip detection logic)
*: Output value changes at inside of ECM only​

​

​

Open or short in A/F sensor circuit​

​

​

A/F sensor​

P1130 Voltage output* of A/F sensor does not change from 3.30 V,

during engine running after engine is warmed up
(2 trip detection logic)
*: Output value changes at inside of ECM only​

​

​

Air induction system

​

​

Fuel pressure​

​

​

Injector​

​

​

ECM
Open or short in A/F sensor circuit (2 trip detection logic)​

The rest of the troubleshooting action here....
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...02rmsour/2002/024runne/di/eg5vzfe/cip1130.pdf

 

[Supra725]

It just keeps coming back..

even with just a 5 miles drive.. the light would come up..

Is time to have both of the o2 sensors replaced..

after 222k miles.. the o2 sensors have decided to quit..

 

[Supra725]

So. I got the oxgen sensor and the A/F sensor ordered.

however though, one is denso and the other is bosch.

Should I try and get the other one as denso also?

Also, today when I went the read the codes. an additional code came up.

is PO 125.

I done a little bit of research and it said something about a new thermostat is needed.

have any of you guys ran into PO 125?

thanks.

 

[brian2sun]

I would hold out for Denso personally, I've had a couple bad experiences now with Bosch stuff in Asian cars - particularly their spark plugs and O2 sensors. You should probably replace the thermo, besides it's like $12 and takes about 15 minutes.

 

[notrayray]

So. I got the oxgen sensor and the A/F sensor ordered.

however though, one is denso and the other is bosch.

Should I try and get the other one as denso also?

Also, today when I went the read the codes. an additional code came up.

is PO 125.

I done a little bit of research and it said something about a new thermostat is needed.

have any of you guys ran into PO 125?

thanks.

I would also hold out for Denso.....
Might want to replace the pcv valve first......especially if it is original....
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...2rmsour/2002/024runne/di/eg5vzfe/cip0125o.pdf

 

[TheDurk]

Don't bother with the thermostat or anything cooling related. (The rare exception being if freeze frame data shows that, in fact, engine temp is low.) Follow the diagnostic in the FSM. Despite the DTC title, P0125 is almost always an Air/Fuel problem, usually the sensor or its circuit, an induction leak or a fuel supply problem. The three digit codes names are fixed for all manufacturers, and this is the one that sets when the ECU refuses to go into closed loop because it doesn't get the readings it expects from a warmed up engine. My theory is that this circuit is part of the permission logic for going from open loop to closed loop at start-up, hence the name.

And yeah, stick to Denso sensors. Amazon has good prices as long as you know your part number.

 

[Supra725]

notrayray,

the pcv valve was replaced 4 months ago along with new plugs and wires.

Does this seem like a reasonable price for the front ones?

http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-900..._1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1282625571&sr=1-1

So there is 2 different sensors for the back.

Engine: V6 (3.4L)
ID: 5VZFE

234-4153
Images Calif.; 4WD; Auto Trans; Calif.; DENSO is the O.E. Manufacturer / Oxygen Sensor N/A


http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-415..._1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1282625474&sr=8-1


and

Engine: V6 (3.4L)
ID: 5VZFE

234-4206
Images Calif.; 4WD; Auto Trans; Calif.; O.E. Quality Universal Replacement Sensor N/A Rear

http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-420..._1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1282625536&sr=1-1

which one is the correct one out of the two?

I will scratch the thermostat off but, should I replace all my coolant while I'm at it? is been over 90k since the last time I had the coolant changed..

I was going to wait for the timing belt replacement and do the whole thing.

thanks..

 

[TheDurk]

Yes, that's a good price on the front sensor. 234-4153 is the correct rear sensor according to my bible for this URD USA. I think the other one is a universal, meaning you would have to solder the old connector onto the new sensor. Not recommended, even if it is the same sensor.

How soon are you doing the timing belt? I hope you have Toyota red or pink in there, but you are way past due for the coolant change in any case. I'd do it real soon and do a serious job of flushing the old stuff out of there. 90k is scary for somebody like me who takes maintenance seriously.

 

[Supra725]

Alright. I'm going to return the bosch one and order the denso one.

I was hoping later on this year but need to save up some cash for the whole job. Kinda of went broke when I did the 90k service (without timing belt and water pump), new shocks.

I have no milkshake as of tonight lol.. I know I need to change the coolant out soon, just need to set some money aside for it..

btw, where did you get your optima at?

 

[Nelsonmd]

Hey, so no intention to thread-jack here, I promise this is pertinent. I just replaced my rear O2 sensor because of a CEL (P0141), and I ordered a denso (234-4154), but it had too short a wiring harness to reach the vehicle side harness. I soldered on a length of the old harness to make it reach, but I just had my CEL come back on after resetting it (took about 75 miles of driving to turn back on)

Did I get the wrong O2 sensor and does the part number determine the length of the harness? The pics for each on amazon appear that harness length is the only difference between 4154 and 4153, but those pics are not always accurate.

I might have switched the 2 black wires when soldering the extension on (I had 2 black, 1 grey, 1 blue on both), could that be the problem? Are both blacks common ground? I would rather re-solder than buy a whole new sensor.

EDIT:
What is the difference between the Cali and 49 state O2 sensors. My 4runner doesn't appear to be a Cali model, so does it matter that the part numbers you guys are using are cali sensors?

 

[TheDurk]

Alright. I'm going to return the bosch one and order the denso one.

I was hoping later on this year but need to save up some cash for the whole job. Kinda of went broke when I did the 90k service (without timing belt and water pump), new shocks.

I have no milkshake as of tonight lol.. I know I need to change the coolant out soon, just need to set some money aside for it..

btw, where did you get your optima at?

I hear you. 90K or 93K on the coolant, I guess it's not a big deal. Corrosion etc. are gradual processes, so if damage is being done it's already happened.

Batteries Plus on the Optima, but I don't recommend the Optima any more. Lots of bad reports since production moved to Mexico. The old US-made ones like mine are great.

 

[TheDurk]

Hey, so no intention to thread-jack here, I promise this is pertinent. I just replaced my rear O2 sensor because of a CEL (P0141), and I ordered a denso (234-4154), but it had too short a wiring harness to reach the vehicle side harness. I soldered on a length of the old harness to make it reach, but I just had my CEL come back on after resetting it (took about 75 miles of driving to turn back on)

Did I get the wrong O2 sensor and does the part number determine the length of the harness? The pics for each on amazon appear that harness length is the only difference between 4154 and 4153, but those pics are not always accurate.

I might have switched the 2 black wires when soldering the extension on (I had 2 black, 1 grey, 1 blue on both), could that be the problem? Are both blacks common ground? I would rather re-solder than buy a whole new sensor.

EDIT:
What is the difference between the Cali and 49 state O2 sensors. My 4runner doesn't appear to be a Cali model, so does it matter that the part numbers you guys are using are cali sensors?

Cali front sensors are wideband Air/Fuel sensors and they operate COMPLETELY differently than the 49-state O2 sensors. As I understand it, on the A/F the ECU maintains a constant voltage and measures the change in current through the sensor. In the O2 sensors the voltage just varies according to the resistance presented by the sensor. So, yes.

If you want the correct sensor, go here to get the correct number. P0141 is the resistance heater on the rear sensor on a 4-cyl engine and we have been talking about Cali. V6's. Rear sensors are all O2 sensors and in many cases the only difference is cable lengths but who really knows? You can check your heater resistance as follows:

The plug should have three little rails on one side and two on the other. Hold the plug with the three rails on top and measure the resistance between the two top terminals. That should be 11-16 Ohms. If not, either you miswired, you have the wrong sensor, or your soldering sucks (hey, it's an art). If it is 11-16 Ohms, you may have a problem in the harness wiring to the ECU because P0141 should not be set if that value is present. The FSM does not show the wire colors, and yours don't match what I have, so I can't help you there.

 

[Nelsonmd]

thanks for the good info. Yeah, that link says that I put in the sensor for the manual not the auto, though the denso site itself doesn't distinguish between the two, so I would think that it is ok.

What plug are you referring to? My sensor plug is 2x2 (I am guessing you are talking about a cali sensor?). Either way, I think you are just walking through the procedure from the FSM, and I can hopefully follow that for mine.

Yeah, The soldering was miserable. The wires were coated with some kind of oil out of the box, and I couldn't get the solder to wet to save my life. I ended up crimping the wires together, then dropped a little solder in each side. Some of the wires ended up wetting, but not all of them. I am going to borrow a good soldering iron and some flux from work and see if I can get them soldered better, and check that I wired it up correctly.

Between the wiring trouble, the rust trouble getting the sensor off, and going to the store for new supplies, this whole O2 change has taken over 5 hours. Supra, I hope it goes better for you.

 

[TheDurk]

What plug are you referring to? My sensor plug is 2x2 (I am guessing you are talking about a cali sensor?). Either way, I think you are just walking through the procedure from the FSM, and I can hopefully follow that for mine.

Yeah, 2x2 wires, but I am talking about the little rails molded into the plug so it only goes in one way. One side has three and the other has two. Anyway, it's page SF-51 in my '99 FSM--should be pretty close in whatever one you find and the picture makes it clear. And no, I am going off the P0141 which is not a Cali specific code--info should apply to you. You do have a 4 Cyl, right? [I suggest you put year, engine, model, trans in your sig--it helps everybody out when asking/giving help.]

 

[Supra725]

So the front one is denso but the back one is bosch.

the cheapest so far is amazon, I called car quest and they wanted $107 for it.

The Durk.

I might go cash some hours in at work and change the coolant while we are at it. I would love to do the timing belt, I really do but just a shy short on cash.

Would you recommend Die Hard Batteries instead?

thanks.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Yeah, 2x2 wires, but I am talking about the little rails molded into the plug so it only goes in one way. One side has three and the other has two. Anyway, it's page SF-51 in my '99 FSM--should be pretty close in whatever one you find and the picture makes it clear. And no, I am going off the P0141 which is not a Cali specific code--info should apply to you. You do have a 4 Cyl, right? [I suggest you put year, engine, model, trans in your sig--it helps everybody out when asking/giving help.]

Ah, I see. Good idea, I'll update my sig. I have the V6 Auto

 

[Supra725]

got a question.

is it because of the bad oxygen sensor, my mpg went downhill?

I notice my car has taken a lot more consumption of gasoline the past 2 days.

thanks.

 

[TheDurk]

got a question.

is it because of the bad oxygen sensor, my mpg went downhill?

I notice my car has taken a lot more consumption of gasoline the past 2 days.

thanks.

In your case, yes, absolutely. With P1135 etc. the ECU stays in open-loop and ignores the feedback from the O2, meaning that it essentially is guessing at the correct fuel injection and timing. This is definitely less efficient than normal closed-loop operation.

 

[Supra725]

I burned like half tank already..

that's like 120-130 miles..

I ordered the back one from amazon and hopefully it comes it this week so that I can switch it out this weekend..

thanks for the help guys.

TheDurk,

aside from optima, what would you recommend for a battery? My die hard is almost 9 years old and I would like to replace it before winter comes..

thanks.