Chain wrench to hold harmonic balancer for T-belt change...

[LittleCaesar]

Anyone ever used one when changing their T-belt?

I watched a neighbor use one on his Nissan last night by using an old drive belt to wrap around the balancer, then tighten up the chain while using a 16" breaker bar to break the crank bolt. I do not know if the torque was as high as 217ft/lbs though. I would think it would be easier to bump the engine but the bolt came out with not much effort.

I like Durk's method the best for crank bolt removal.

 

[driffter33]

I made this when I did my timing belt worked great for torquing it down. anyone wants to use it I'll check shipping to you and you ship to the next guy so on and so on!

 

[ryankmasuda]

I made one out of a 2x4 and two bolts...be careful because the woordruff key snap if you dont hit the crank shaft bolt with pb blaster. If you damage the crank pulley you're looking at atleast $200 in a pulley

 

[Singtoe]

I made this when I did my timing belt worked great for torquing it down. anyone wants to use it I'll check shipping to you and you ship to the next guy so on and so on!

Can you use it in an iron maiden?


But seriously, I think we should start a program to share tools. I have a 4 pin wheel bearing wrench used on 2wd 4runners and AISIN hubs.

I know that several of the members have the timing belt tension tools.

 

[TheDurk]

drifter33, that is seriously the most awesome pulley holder ever built. I bet crank bolts just unscrew themselves and hide on the garage floor when they see that thing coming.

 

[LittleCaesar]

It stinks that when I had to move two years ago, I had to sell my welder for space reasons. That is one righteous removal tool if I have ever seen one.

 

[RS Dude]

My Haynes manual says to remove the sheet metal cover to the flywheel and wedge a piece of metal on the teeth and against a part of the frame if you don't have the special tool to hold the crank pulley. Anyone try this method?:repuke:

 

[YotaZach85]

My Haynes manual says to remove the sheet metal cover to the flywheel and wedge a piece of metal on the teeth and against a part of the frame if you don't have the special tool to hold the crank pulley. Anyone try this method?:repuke:

I just put the socket on the crank pulley bolt with a breaker bar against the frame and tap the key, they usually come right out.

 

[LittleCaesar]

FYI:

I don't know if anyone has seen this shadetree method for the tbelt change. Propane use? Guy likes his waterpumps.
‪Toyota timing belt‬‏ - YouTube

How long does the breaker bar have to be to reach the frame BTW?

 

[YotaZach85]

FYI:

I don't know if anyone has seen this shadetree method for the tbelt change. Propane use? Guy likes his waterpumps.
‪Toyota timing belt‬‏ - YouTube

How long does the breaker bar have to be to reach the frame BTW?

I think mine is only about 2' long, I'll check it tomorrow and get back to you though.

 

[driffter33]

Not very long, that's all this tool dose is go in the 2 holes in the front of the pulley then rest it on the frame either side depending if you are tightening or loosening. I did the breaker bar frame key thing to get it off.

 

[NOT ME OR SOMEBODY]

I just did my timing belt recently on my 3.4. Thanks to all on this forum and the tips it went well.

I also made a special tool to hold the crankshaft pulley (like Singtoe) it was a little different but it worked great.

The idea of wedging a breaker bar against the frame and bumping the engine
IMHO is a last resort ( could be dangerous ) and you better make darn sure the engine will not start while trying it. I have heard it will work But..........

Jamming something in the flywheel teeth is a worst idea.

Back to the original question yes a chain wrench on the pulley might work. Although I did not try it.

Here is a good write up that shows a chain wrench being used.

5vz-fe timing belt

( thank you to a member on this forum for the link to this . Sorry that I can 't remmeber who it was but thank you )

A couple things I learned was

I wanted to replace the tensioner while I was in there and you do not have to
remove the A/C compressor bracket to do so. With a long 1/4" extension a 1/4" swivel and a shallow 12mm socket we were able to get behind the A/C bracket and get the rear bolt out of the tensioner. (thank you to a member on this forum for the tip . Sorry that I can 't remmeber who it was but thank you, it saved alot of time) It took two people to do but with one underneath and one up top to guide the socket on we got it out. Putting it back on and getting the rear bolt in was tricky but was done. I put a 1/2 wrap of electrical tape on the unthreaded portion of the rear bolt and put it in the rear hole of the new tensioner. This held it in there well enough to get it positioned and the socket back on to tighten it up.

The new water pump came with a gasket and I THOROUGHLY cleaned the surface of the engine and did not use any FIPG sealant. I tightened it down carefully going around in a criss cross pattern on the bolts, and it does not leak as of a week now so its likely not going to.

Don't forget the washer behind the tensioning idler pulley. I did at first and when I tightened it, it would not swivel / pivot up freely after the bolt was tight.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Thanks for everyone's input. I have the TB kit staring at me and want to dive into it, but with the heat 100+, this is a job best saved until after Labor Day.

I would think I need a 24" breaker bar to bump the starter. I would have to raid my uncle's next door neighbor for one (retired diesel engine mechanic for the Navy). I am going to make a holder out of a 2x4 and some bolts to hold the balancer while tightening the crank bolt or in my raid pick up the 24" chain wrench.

I think kball posted the trick in using the long 1/4" extension and a swivel 12mm socket to reach that tension bolt but I could be wrong. Kudos to him for making it work.

 

[kball]

I think kball posted the trick in using the long 1/4" extension and a swivel 12mm socket to reach that tension bolt but I could be wrong. Kudos to him for making it work.

I did mention that but I got the idea from Elton. Passin it on...

As far as holding the crank, I bought the official tool. It worked perfect as it should.

 

[Elton H]

my beast tool i made

 

[TheDurk]

Here's my "ugly but works" tool: