Changing Differential & Transfer Case Fluids - Pics Included

[jambone]

Did the front diff and xfer case today. I could not get my (Craftsman) torque wrench on the front diff fill plug without lifting the car up - there just wasn't enough room otherwise due to the long handle on the wrench.

Also, I started to strip out the front diff fill plug. I used some WD-40, and then made sure I had my 10mm hex key seated all the way in.

With the el cheapo hand pump I used, it took about 250 pumps per 1Qt bottle!

Having said all of that, this is a pretty easy job and worth doing it yourself. You know it's done right, and you save a lot of cash.

 

[aika1]

Did the front diff and xfer case today. I could not get my (Craftsman) torque wrench on the front diff fill plug without lifting the car up - there just wasn't enough room otherwise due to the long handle on the wrench.

It's definitely tight getting in there (that's what she said. ). Since I chaned mine yesterday I can talk a bit about this. Jack it up, drain it, let it down or jac one side to let it drain better. Jack it back up, fill it, then drop it back down to let it level off correctly. Jack it back up (fill plug side high), and seal it up. It's lots of back and forth, but you don't do this every 5k anyways.

 

[Matt fe2o3]

Great info

Thanks guys, I have my 06' in for 90k service plus timing belt and tranny flush....probably 1700 bucks...ouch. But they wanted another 4 or 500 for the front and rear diff and xfer case oil change.

That Allen socket, I have a similar one on my bike, factory torque must have been done by an 800 pound gorilla. One tip that can work well is ensuring the key is fully seated and also using a exam glove doubled up around the Allen key socket to get a tight grip in there.

Will do the change next rainy day.

 

[off-road runner]

Great thread! Started to do the whole fluid thing this evening on the '06 Sport with 80,000 miles. Changed spark plugs and rear diff which had never been done along with engine oil before it got dark. 4Runner still on blocks so I'll attempt the front diff and TC in the morning along with zerk fittings. Front diff and TC have never been done either but I usually get the zerks at every oil change. Didn't go the synthetic route, just using the toy recommended oils.
Taking a chance and reusing the crush washers, always reused them on my 3rd gen with no leaks... knock on wood.
CYCLO BREAK FREE works great on rusted bolts, let sit for 1/2 an hour.
I don't have a torque wrench either but would use it if I did. I usually just tighten the bolt 1/4 turn before it snaps off.

 

[riceandpho]

i havent done this on my truck since i dont tow, but what sould expect? im close to 100k, is it going to be nasty?

 

[pattycakes]

I would love to see pics of your magnet and oil when ya change it. I change mine every 25-30K KMs , never saw oil with 160K KM's on it before. Maybe I'm nuts changing so often as your diffs are still going strong . Imagine the money I could save and spend on mods over the life of the vehicle.

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

i havent done this on my truck since i dont tow, but what sould expect? im close to 100k, is it going to be nasty?

My thoughts are that the first change is where you're going to see (and remove) the bulk of the wear which is why I'd never go 100k mi on the factory fill. I'd be much more comfortable going 50k (or less) on the factory fill and then stepping up to 100k if you so desire while keeping an eye on it every couple 10k mi or so that way all of the break in materials that are suspended in the oil (and sometimes stuck to your magnet) are out of the picture.

 

[riceandpho]

just order some lucas oil 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil, from summit racing 2 1quarts and 2 1 gallons, i need about 7 for my truck(4x4) and maybe 4 on my dads taco(4x2). best price so far, cant beleive the gallon jugs are cheaper. yet its 5 quarts.

 

[hrt4me]

great info, will come in handy this weekend

 

[riceandpho]

getting ready to start this today.

 

[riceandpho]

so i did this, and it sticks on the rear, but everything else is fine, hardest part was the front diff, the drain plug woulding come out after some wd40, had to use my gorilla lug wrench to get it off, wasnts much on the rear drain plug, the front had more, maybe i didnt warm up the fluids enough to get all the shavings. the rear dif was a lil milky like new fluid but smells. lil thick but not sludge.

 

[slyangel9]

Just did this, big thanks to the OP and the rest of the forum. While I had the car jacked up, I regreased all the nipples on the driveshaft.

 

[iamtimmai]

Hi,

I'm new to all this. What do you use to grease all the nipples and shaft? Is it a spray can that has a little tube like the WD-40 cans? Is there a thread similar to this one with pictures to show where each part that needs to be greased located?

 

[talonjade]

Bought my 03 V8 4runner Late 2011 with 90,000 on it

Now I am at 110,000+ and I am just getting to the differentials... not sure if they have ever been done!

How boned am I? supposing they have never been touched...

I read someone opened up their housing and it (was like pudding) and they were at 85,000K :sobbing:

maybe hearing about someone else opening their diff for the first time at 100K will make me feel better... anyone else in my position?

 

[<<<<]

It won't be like pudding at 85,000 miles (some one's full of it), it'll be lil dirty and really really stinky. GL.



.

 

[martini]

Hi,

I'm new to all this. What do you use to grease all the nipples and shaft? Is it a spray can that has a little tube like the WD-40 cans? Is there a thread similar to this one with pictures to show where each part that needs to be greased located?

Here are the locations of all the zerk fittings: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maintenance/28414-07-v8-4x4-zerk-fitting-pics.html. You need a grease gun and a tube of grease to grease them.

 

[talonjade]

Need Help homes!

OK so I did the front, rear and transfer case, I measured about 7Qts removed...
The color and smell was so good that I assume that the dealer I bought it from must have done the service. I cleaned the magnets(a little goop but nothing weird)

My method was to fill them till they were full or just barely below the fill hole.

Here is my question:
I bought 7Qts or Amsoil Sever gear but after the job I have just about 1 full quart left... I am told the job usually only takes 6.5Qts but I have 1/2 extra on top of that so my question is between the front,rear and transfer case is that still acceptable?

1/2 quart between the three of them is not that much...:redbrick:

***Update

I have run it for a few weeks and nothing strange other then I need to pull the trans fuse to reset the memory.. she 1+1 = 6 right now....holding shifts for too long.

 

[Dexter Morgan]

Guys - since the center diff is limited-slip, do I need to use special LSD oil for this and regular gear oil for the front and rear diffs?

 

[JB.]

Guys - since the center diff is limited-slip, do I need to use special LSD oil for this and regular gear oil for the front and rear diffs?

No, either is fine.

 

[Dexter Morgan]

No, either is fine.

Thank you JB - three quick follow up questions if I could:

- I suspect using M1 75w90 with friction modifier in the front and rear diffs would be ok too? Just wondering since sometimes my local Advance Auto does not stock a ton of gear oil so my choices are limited.

- Switching to synthetic is fine at 110k miles right? I've never personally bought too much into the 'synthetic will ruin your seals' theory.

- A little binding on very slow tight turns would be considered acceptable on the full time 4wd Torsen system?

Thank you again for your help, it is much appreciated!