Changing Differential & Transfer Case Fluids - Pics Included

Its been a while, is that car a wet clutch?

You do understand ur throwing a clutch into a gear oil conversion.... Perhaps your clutch did or didn't appreciate an additive package or friction modifiers...

I'm sure your gears themselves didn't give two shits one way or another.

If you could feel the difference in different brands of similar weight oils in your rear differential you should be working at an oil manufactures testing lab.

Shift Hard == Transmission fluid....
Shift Hard =/= rear differential or clutch....
???????
 
Shift Hard == Transmission fluid....
Shift Hard =/= rear differential or clutch....
???????

Isn't that basically gear oil, unless you bought an automatic? I'm just a bit surprised there is a difference, or if you could even really tell. Most of the time its a placebo effect, hense the skepticism.

I don't know why I said clutch stuff... I just got done servicing my ATV which has a wet clutch. I was thinking of the synchros or something like that, but its late... sorry if that came off rude.
 
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Isn't that basically gear oil, unless you bought an automatic? I'm just a bit surprised there is a difference, or if you could even really tell. Most of the time its a placebo effect, hense the skepticism.

I don't know why I said clutch stuff... I just got done servicing my ATV which has a wet clutch. I was thinking of the synchros or something like that, but its late... sorry if that came off rude.

It a manual. I thought gear oil was all the same until that experience. It wasn't a placebo effect, and it's a pretty common thing in the subaru world. For some reason, our subarus hate Mobil 1 engine oil, and certain transmission fluids.
 
It a manual. I thought gear oil was all the same until that experience. It wasn't a placebo effect, and it's a pretty common thing in the subaru world. For some reason, our subarus hate Mobil 1 engine oil, and certain transmission fluids.

Nah! I use Mobil 1 in my WRX although it's the ESP formula and comes in Litres cause it's Euro spec. I'm running samples every oil change to check for additives and possible fuel dilution as well as determining my OCI.

The whole engine oil thing with EJs and several of the boxer motors is it's own issue. Some are notorious for burning oil and several owners will use particular oil to counteract their piston rings allowing so much oil to be burned. This has led to all the Motul/RotellaT6/Amsoil recommendations and what not.

As far as gear oil goes I don't really see how that could make your shifting hard but some transmissions are particular about specifications of oil used. I like to research the shit out of fluids I buy and there's lots of good info on the bobistheoilguy.com website FWIW.

For the 4Runner I went with Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic 75w-90. Does the job and no issues whatsoever.
 
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Nah! I use Mobil 1 in my WRX although it's the ESP formula and comes in Litres cause it's Euro spec. I'm running samples every oil change to check for additives and possible fuel dilution as well as determining my OCI.

The whole engine oil thing with EJs and several of the boxer motors is it's own issue. Some are notorious for burning oil and several owners will use particular oil to counteract their piston rings allowing so much oil to be burned. This has led to all the Motul/RotellaT6/Amsoil recommendations and what not.

As far as gear oil goes I don't really see how that could make your shifting hard but some transmissions are particular about specifications of oil used. I like to research the shit out of fluids I buy and there's lots of good info on the bobistheoilguy.com website FWIW.

For the 4Runner I went with Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic 75w-90. Does the job and no issues whatsoever.

Yea the Eurospec stuff from Mobil 1 has no issues, but the US spec stuff causes tons of blow by/burn from what i've heard. I just use Amsoil since my friend is a seller for them.

Honestly, I didn't think so either until I tried myself. I went from stock -> redline, because I loved redline in my miata. Redline was absolutely terrible, so I went to Motul and shifted so well.

Good to know, I'll look for that!
 
Got it. Thanks for that info.

I don't know. people say gear oil is just gear oil, but when I tried Valvoline and redline gear oil in my WRX, it made shifting hard... Went back to Amsoil and Motul, and it was extremely smooth.

Consensus here is Red Line MT90 for our manual trans. Make's shifting real smooth. I was having trouble getting into 1st & reverse. Switched to MT 90 & it's like new again.
 
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I went to Amazon and got washer kit, decided to go with Redline 75w90 for axles and stick with the Toyota 75w for TC.

Is the toyota 75w oil red and runny like transmission oil. I just changed mine out and it was red and looked like transmission oil. Really light weight oil and didn't smell like gear oil which stinks and you know it's of a different oil. I just hope it wasn't Trans oil in the TC and if it was that there was no bad effects.
 
Is the toyota 75w oil red and runny like transmission oil. I just changed mine out and it was red and looked like transmission oil. Really light weight oil and didn't smell like gear oil which stinks and you know it's of a different oil. I just hope it wasn't Trans oil in the TC and if it was that there was no bad effects.

Sounds to me like you drained your transmission...! Gear oil is unmistakeable once smelled. I'd check that sucker out again.
 
Sounds to me like you drained your transmission...! Gear oil is unmistakeable once smelled. I'd check that sucker out again.

Didn't drain the transmission as the TC has two 24mm bolts the transmission is way different. The previous owner or shop must have put transmission oil cause it was red color. I put walmart syn blend 75w-90 in the TC.
 
Sounds to me like you drained your transmission...! Gear oil is unmistakeable once smelled. I'd check that sucker out again.



Hahaha holy shit the first time I changed all my gear oils I couldn't believe what I was smelling. It's just plain rancid. I've done it a few times since, just so it doesn't get like it was before. I bought my 4Runner with 79k and went through all the Toyota service records(lease vehicle) and it hadn't been changed or at least noted.


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Part numbers for crush washers and fill/drain plugs (thanks [MENTION=44561]aika1[/MENTION] and [MENTION=28870]d_clark[/MENTION]):

Transfer Case Fill Gasket 90430-18008
Transfer Case Drain Gasket 90430-18008
Front Differential Fill Gasket 12157-10010
Front Differential Drain Gasket 90430-24003
Rear Differential Fill Gasket 12157-10010
Rear Differential Drain Gasket 12157-10010

Transfer Case Drain Plug 90341-18006
Transfer Case Fill Plug 90341-18006
Transfer Case Breather Plug 90930-03172
Rear Differential Drain Plug 90341-18057
Rear Differential Fill Plug 90341-18006
Rear Differential Breather Plug 90930-03031
Front Differential Drain Plug 90341-24014
Front Differential Fill Plug 90341-18032
Front Differential Breather Plug 90930-03136
Oil Pan Drain Plug 90341-12012
Oil Pan Drain Plug Gasket 90430-12031

This seems like a lot of parts, if my drain/fill plugs come off clean don't I only need the crush washers? What are the gaskets and other plugs for when just draining/filling?

Also Amsoil extreme gear lube states 100k intervals under normal driving, is that what people are doing? That seems like an extremely long time to keep the same gear oil in there. I was thinking every 60k just to be safe...
 
This seems like a lot of parts, if my drain/fill plugs come off clean don't I only need the crush washers? What are the gaskets and other plugs for when just draining/filling?

Also Amsoil extreme gear lube states 100k intervals under normal driving, is that what people are doing? That seems like an extremely long time to keep the same gear oil in there. I was thinking every 60k just to be safe...
I just bought a washer kit off amazon. It had replacement washers for the front, center and rear. No need to replace plugs unless they are damaged. I tow a lot so I prob change my fluid too much. I just changed it after 30k and it looked brand new. Will wait longer next time.

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Replace all washers. Don't bother with the plugs unless you rounded one off (it happens). My oil looked like honey when I drained it last time after 45k. The interval is up to you. Cheers!
 
I bought my new-to-me 2011 Limited back in May 2016. The previous owner had racked up 144,000 km (89,000 miles) on it, with all regular maintenance (mainly just the 0W20 oil/filter changes and the occasional air filter) done at Toyota dealerships. Shortly after my purchase I had some brake work done and upgraded the tires - that blew my service budget!

This May at 151,000 km (94,000 miles) I decided to drain and fill the transfer case gear oil, drain and fill the front differential gear oil and rear differential gear oil. My independent mechanic did not notice any burnt smell or significant discoloration in the gear oils when he drained the t-case and differentials.

Since my local Toyota dealership gets their (75W90) gear oil in bulk, I was not able to use the recommended Toyota gear oils as specified in the owner's manual. Ended up using Lucas Synthetic 75W90 gear oil in the t-case and differentials.

https://lucasoil.com/products/gear-oil/synthetic-gear-oil/lucas-sae-75w-90-synthetic-gear-oil

Also replaced the rear differential vent.

Should be good for the next 80,000 km (50,000 miles).
 
Quick question, I had a shop do my front/rear diff and transfer case. I gave them 7 quarts of amsoil synthetic and they gave me 1.5 quarts back when I picked the truck up. This is a Toyota shop and most of the employees own tacomas or 4runners. Should I be concerned? According to the original post I should of got only 1 quart back at most, not 1.5.
 
Dont worry about the front but check the rear diff level. It'll just take few minutes and adding fluid is easy if you drop spare tire. GL
 
This seems like a lot of parts, if my drain/fill plugs come off clean don't I only need the crush washers? What are the gaskets and other plugs for when just draining/filling?

Also Amsoil extreme gear lube states 100k intervals under normal driving, is that what people are doing? That seems like an extremely long time to keep the same gear oil in there. I was thinking every 60k just to be safe...

Yes on the washers and no on the plugs. It depends on the wear and tear on the plugs that you cause or that are already there.

I bought my plugs anyway just in case because i have that kind of luck. A little BG Penetration Oil (whatever you feel comfortable using not a debate) goes a long way. I placed some on the rear and TC the night before (lazy didn't feel like dropping the front skid plate).

Autozone has a one of those pump tube kits which comes in handy when putting in the new oil. A little bit of a workout but it gets the job done. Here is my job ---> http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2739002-post28697.html
 
I checked all my drive train fluids .. replaced the rear diff. did not replace any gaskets including the engine oil drain plug . no leaks .. so my guess is IF these plugs are over torqued and I know this does happen then the plugs and gaskets may have to be replaced.
 

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