wfo9
New member
Your speed error is relative to speed... At 45mph.. it's hardly anything at 100mph it is much more significant. Its rare to drive past a radar sign on the hwy. Most states give a 5mph buffer before a ticket can be issued.
Changing Tire Size or Wheels? Read this first!
- Thread starter 1engineer
- Start date
Your speed error is relative to speed... At 45mph.. it's hardly anything at 100mph it is much more significant. Its rare to drive past a radar sign on the hwy. Most states give a 5mph buffer before a ticket can be issued.
TravelWest01
New member
That is pretty harsh on the part of CHP! Not surprised no ticket, radar has a margin of error so you probably could have taken it to court and had it thrown out.
I think he just wanted a closer look at his 4Runner.
mrtifftiff
New member
On Christmas Day.
3wbdriver
New member
You are looking at the possibility of slight rub against the front of the fender while at full turn in reverse. Or maybe not, since Toyota already trimmed the front fender lip when they installed the TRD package. Even if you have a slight rub, trimming the fender for fit isn't difficult. I cut mine with a boxcutter knife.
NYStateofMind85
New member
Quick question for ya...I'm thinking about running a very similar setup - same suspension lift and tire size. Did/do you experience any rubbing with the 285 tire size and if so, did you have to trim the fender or anything similar?
Thanks for this excellent write up! I just bought my first 4runner (2016 TE) and I've never tinkered with modding any car before, so some of this was over my head. I was hoping someone could clarify one thing:
I would like to put slightly bigger, more aggressive wheels and tires on - nothing bigger than 33's. I may eventually also put a small lift on, but nothing crazy; 2 or 3" max and that would probably be a bit down the road. From the write up, it sounds like I can pretty much just install the 33's without having to change anything to make them fit and work properly, is this accurate?
I didn't understand the bit about LCA/UCA (I don't know what those are), but it sounded like that may be the only problem area. I just want to make sure whatever tires and wheels I go with are installed properly so as not to over stress anything.
I would like to put slightly bigger, more aggressive wheels and tires on - nothing bigger than 33's. I may eventually also put a small lift on, but nothing crazy; 2 or 3" max and that would probably be a bit down the road. From the write up, it sounds like I can pretty much just install the 33's without having to change anything to make them fit and work properly, is this accurate?
I didn't understand the bit about LCA/UCA (I don't know what those are), but it sounded like that may be the only problem area. I just want to make sure whatever tires and wheels I go with are installed properly so as not to over stress anything.
sting555
Member
285/70/17 BFG KO2 W/ Icon Stage 2 (Tubular UCAs)
I'm running BFG KO2 285/70/17 mounted on TRD Pro 17x7 wheels with the Icon Stage 2 lift (3" front lift and 2" rear) and it's a perfect fit. Zero rubbing issues and zero trimming required. The Icon UCAs allowed for ideal alignment specs. Overall handling is much improved. It seems like my turning radius is improved with this setup as well. With the new Load Range E tires, I've been experimenting with the PSI and I can run them up to around 48 PSI maintaining comfortable ride quality. At 48 PSI I'm getting the same or better MPG than what I was getting with the stock setup.
I'm running BFG KO2 285/70/17 mounted on TRD Pro 17x7 wheels with the Icon Stage 2 lift (3" front lift and 2" rear) and it's a perfect fit. Zero rubbing issues and zero trimming required. The Icon UCAs allowed for ideal alignment specs. Overall handling is much improved. It seems like my turning radius is improved with this setup as well. With the new Load Range E tires, I've been experimenting with the PSI and I can run them up to around 48 PSI maintaining comfortable ride quality. At 48 PSI I'm getting the same or better MPG than what I was getting with the stock setup.
In addition to the lift,
1. The guide recommends installing aftermarket LCA/UCAs for 285s (33s) so you have more flexibility to get you to stay within factory alignment specs and possibility eliminate the tires from rubbing. Some have been lucky and haven't had to install aftermarket control arms as they claim not have any rubbing. Every vehicle is different, mostly because their alignment is within factory specs but its a range.
2. You may have to do the front liner mod which involves moving the front wheel well plastic liner forward and rescrewing.
LCA = Lower Control Arm
UCA = Upper Control Arm
Aftermarket control arms are usually recommended for lifts >2.5" and are designed with added caster to aid in retaining factory alignment specs when aftermarket lift kits are installed. This reduces the darting or wandering in the vehicle's steering when lift kits are installed and solves some rubbing issues for larger tires (up to a certain size of course).
Do your research into the different types of aftermarket control arms available. The ones that use uniballs give you more flexibility but can come at the sacrifice of noise and quicker wear.
The only other consideration is that any lift type modification will likely reduce the longevity of your vehicle. Notably, lifts over 2.5" puts increased stress on your CV joints as the angles are more acute. 50% of the people believe that a differential drop kit alleviates this stress, and the other 50% don't put any value on a diff drop kit
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Thanks!
In addition to the lift,
1. The guide recommends installing aftermarket LCA/UCAs for 285s (33s) so you have more flexibility to get you to stay within factory alignment specs and possibility eliminate the tires from rubbing. Some have been lucky and haven't had to install aftermarket control arms as they claim not have any rubbing. Every vehicle is different, mostly because their alignment is within factory specs but its a range.
2. You may have to do the front liner mod which involves moving the front wheel well plastic liner forward and rescrewing.
LCA = Lower Control Arm
UCA = Upper Control Arm
Aftermarket control arms are usually recommended for lifts >2.5" and are designed with added caster to aid in retaining factory alignment specs when aftermarket lift kits are installed. This reduces the darting or wandering in the vehicle's steering when lift kits are installed and solves some rubbing issues for larger tires (up to a certain size of course).
Do your research into the different types of aftermarket control arms available. The ones that use uniballs give you more flexibility but can come at the sacrifice of noise and quicker wear.
The only other consideration is that any lift type modification will likely reduce the longevity of your vehicle. Notably, lifts over 2.5" puts increased stress on your CV joints as the angles are more acute. 50% of the people believe that a differential drop kit alleviates this stress, and the other 50% don't put any value on a diff drop kit
Robzilla2016
New member
Wheel spacers?
Has anyone installed ARP extended wheel studs? Stock studs are too short on my 2016 SR5 so I can't get enough thread on my new wheels. I can't find any info on the part number I need to order so I'm hoping someone has it. Or if someone has the stock knurl and undergrad dimensions that would work too. Thanks!
Has anyone installed ARP extended wheel studs? Stock studs are too short on my 2016 SR5 so I can't get enough thread on my new wheels. I can't find any info on the part number I need to order so I'm hoping someone has it. Or if someone has the stock knurl and undergrad dimensions that would work too. Thanks!
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Animalis007
New member
Custom hanger for spare
Hey, I just bought a set of 5 MB wheels (pictured below) with the intention that the 5th would be my spare underneath. My quandary is the center 'hub' doesn't easily come out for use with the factory spare lift hanger.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to create (no welding skills) a custom hanger so I can put the spare underneath?
Hey, I just bought a set of 5 MB wheels (pictured below) with the intention that the 5th would be my spare underneath. My quandary is the center 'hub' doesn't easily come out for use with the factory spare lift hanger.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to create (no welding skills) a custom hanger so I can put the spare underneath?
