cheap hitch security

[flyinbrick]

I don't know if this is common knowledge in the towing world, but I thought it might be helpful ...
was looking for a locking hitch bolt for my new bike rack, but I didn't like that idea since that means yet another key to keep track of. They also are not cheap and seemed like a cost overkill for a $200 bike rack. The rack came with a 5/8-11 bolt that any crescent wrench can remove, so I simply replaced it with a socket cap screw. It was like $2 from McMaster and I needed some other stuff from there anyway. Now, you would need a 1/2" hex socket to remove it.

 

[NoDak]

lol the only problem. all the other nuts are crescent wrenchable, like the 4 I see in the picture glaring at me

 

[KidVermicious]

These are the bomb, and not at all expensive: Amazon.com: Trimax TAR300 Anti-Rattle 5/8" Keyed Receiver Locking Pin System: Automotive

The anti-rattle feature works well, and I just leave the key in the glove box of whichever vehicle the hitch happens to be on.

 

[txclimber]

Don't lull yourselves into a false sense of security. These options only keep honest people honest. I lost the key to one of mine and found it to be scary how easily I popped it off.

All it took was an 18" piece of pipe slipped over the lock and a couple of rocks back and forth----snap! These things are made to be hard to cut through which makes them extra brittle.

 

[flyinbrick]

lol the only problem. all the other nuts are crescent wrenchable, like the 4 I see in the picture glaring at me

Doh! :ybrick:
OK, you're right, but, here's how I see it. First, you have to undo four bolts. Even then, you won't get the piece that goes into the hitch. The purpose is not to secure the bikes - just the hitch. I would think that if you can't steal the whole thing, it's not worth stealing. I suppose I can change all the others to hex caps too, but at this point, it's not worth doing.

 

[NoDak]

no one steals hitches, they steal what is attached to it

4 bolts is nothing when the item attached to it is a $400+ bike.

 

[he's gone]

I just carry the extra key with one of those circular locks.

 

[nevada]

These are the bomb, and not at all expensive: Amazon.com: Trimax TAR300 Anti-Rattle 5/8" Keyed Receiver Locking Pin System: Automotive

The anti-rattle feature works well, and I just leave the key in the glove box of whichever vehicle the hitch happens to be on.

I have seen too many of the keyed style get rusted and froze up. then you cant remove it without cutting. no thanks.

I prefer a bolted hitch pin, similar to the OP's. though, mine is a standard hex, but its a large hex and put on very tight. nobody will be unbolting it with a standard/small crescent wrench.
also, I love have a hitch or accessory that doesn't move, rattle or vibrate. its really the only way to go.

no one steals hitches, they steal what is attached to it

4 bolts is nothing when the item attached to it is a $400+ bike.

maybe its regional? I know a lot of people get their drop hitches stolen. they are expensive to replace. a $10 anti-rattle bolt is good insurance, and makes for a more secure load.

 

[NoDak]

only good part, when its freaking cold no one just randomly walks around to steal stuff around here.

and a 10-15 min steal job gets awfully dam cold with your trying to steal something at 0F or -20F.

I am thinking of changing out my hitch screw shackle for winter for a hitch hook for my tow/snatch strap. too much hassle when its cold and using gloves getting that screw pin out to hook up a rope.

I currently have the regular shackle pic # 1 but would pic # 2 work or is that a weakness being bolted compared to pic # 3 where its all 1 piece.

 

[nevada]

only good part, when its freaking cold no one just randomly walks around to steal stuff around here.

and a 10-15 min steal job gets awfully dam cold with your trying to steal something at 0F or -20F.

I am thinking of changing out my hitch screw shackle for winter for a hitch hook for my tow/snatch strap. too much hassle when its cold and using gloves getting that screw pin out to hook up a rope.

I currently have the regular shackle pic # 1 but would pic # 2 work or is that a weakness being bolted compared to pic # 3 where its all 1 piece.

for safety reasons, I recently switched to a shackle on my winch also. hooks are OK for a quick, and light extraction. but they can be dangerous..

 

[NoDak]

well I would only use the hook for quick/easy snow removals.

its just that the shackle has a tendency to freeze during winter where its a job in of itself to unscrew the bolt.

 

[KidVermicious]

its just that the shackle has a tendency to freeze during winter where its a job in of itself to unscrew the bolt.

Leave the shackle and pin in your glove box. :thumb:

Any of the three receiver mount recovery points you posted will work fine. The bolts in the second one are not a weakness, that hook is no different from the factory recovery points on millions of SUVs and every one of them is attached to the frame with bolts.

 

[TechWrench]

Leave the shackle and pin in your glove box. :thumb:

Any of the three receiver mount recovery points you posted will work fine. The bolts in the second one are not a weakness, that hook is no different from the factory recovery points on millions of SUVs and every one of them is attached to the frame with bolts.

:iagree: Unless you have the JBL rear speakers, use the right side storage area in the rear to keep the draw bar in until needed. I wrap mine in a mechanics rag so it doesn't rattle around too much.

 

[NoDak]

in the winter time I just leave it on all winter and break out the rope as needed.

hence the reason of going to the hook for light recovery's and the shackle for worse situations.