Check Engine error code

H

heinz57

New member
Have a 'check engine' light showing on my '99 V-6 auto. The mechanic found error code P0125B 'insufficient coolant temp for closed loop'.

Changing the thermostat didn't help.

Also shows code P1135.

Sound familiar - any ideas?
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
According to the Service Manual for a 2000 5VZ-FE (same engine, I think), the P0125 code actually has nothing to do with the coolant temp, even though that's the name of the code!
Possible causes for P0125 include a problem with air flow sensor Bank 1, Sensor 1 (that's a heated oxygen sensor, I believe), fuel pressure, or an injector.
P1135 is a malfunction in the heater for the air flow sensor Bank 1, Sensor 1, indicating that either the sensor's heater is bad or the circuit supplying power to the heater has a problem.
Together, it sounds like the sensor.
 
Thanks, Toto,

Sorry to sound dense, cause I'm in way over my head, but when you say, "sounds like the sensor", you mean it's the "heated oxygen sensor"?

The SUV has 115K miles on it and I had to replace the mass air sensor ($150) last year. Should I expect a string of sensor driven check engine lights, or am I just in a bad place? It's been such a GREAT vehicle, I'm going to hate to part with it...
 
Yes, I do mean that oxygen sensor.

These emission sensors are wear items. The MAF sensor is a hassle on all Toyotas, and the oxygen sensors are constantly exposed to heat.
 
Wow, Toto - you the man!

That does everything except change it for me. It even has links to order the part.

Thanks again,

Steve
 
The plot thickens -

Shopping for the part, the Toyota dealer says that based on VIN, I'm equipped for California Emissions Standards, even though I bought it in and live in Maine.

The Cal version is double in price - about $200 versus less than $100.

Can I use the cheaper part?

Steve
 
I would bet that you'd have to use the California part, or else the computer might be confused and keep the check engine light on.
Don't know for sure, though.
 
To close this one out, tried to buy the sensor off the Internet, and kept getting conflicting info as to which part it was. Not wanting to be mistaken and stuck with a $180+ wrong part, ended up taking it to the dealer. The nomenclature was air/fuel sensor (the Calif emissions thing) and it was $208 + $7 for the gasket - ugh...

1.3hrs of labor largely to get off what I already knew were very rusted nuts - the total came to $330+.

Thanks god this vehicle hardly ever breaks.
 
Don't mean to bring back an old thread but I have the same problem now on my 4Runner. I just had the codes pulled and we found a P1135. I researched in my factory Toyota repair manuals and found that its the A/F sensor. I am now trying to get off the wiring harness connector on the exhaust pipe to check the resistance that the book says it should be but that connector is kicking my butt.

Any tips to getting these bastages off?

I'm also worried now about getting the nuts off of the sensor, if I have to pull it off because they are rusted on almost permanantly!!:mad:
 
The Toyota tech said that he used a torch to apply heat, but that you have to be careful or you'll mess up the catalytic converter.
 
Over the course of a couple days just keep soaking the bolts in Liquid Wrench or WD-40. By the time your ready to pull them off they should be ok. Use the torch as the last resort!
 
qballjr13 said:
Over the course of a couple days just keep soaking the bolts in Liquid Wrench or WD-40. By the time your ready to pull them off they should be ok. Use the torch as the last resort!
Click to expand...

Use PB blaster a penetrating oil...WD-40 will not work


Mike
 
I was thinking PB blaster myself. Does anyone know where to get these o2 sensors cheaper? I saw a guy post a reply on here that he got one for about $90. My Toyota Dealership here in CIncinnati is cheaper than Auto Zone and Advanced auto?? But its still $258:awais:
 
I have struggled with O2 sensors before. Now I use a kit of sockets ( $20 from autozone) that simplifies the task. They are chunky and will not distort as you smack them with a mallet. Try to only use a
 
Nice.............. I'll see if they come off with just regular muscle. But if they don't I'll check into this kit at Auto Zone. What is it called?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 379 (members: 3, guests: 376)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,304
Messages
3,554,041
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top