COB's 4Runner Timeline (Pic Heavy)

I have a lockright in the rear and an aussie locker up front. No selectable BS here. It was pretty inexpensive. i think I have about $550 in my lockers together. And you can install them yourself if you still have open diffs.

Personally I would go ARB over the toy elocker in the back. You wont need a new housing and there isnt that big actuator to get damaged. But I still would go with a detroit or yukon grizzly instead of the arb. im not a fan of selectable lockers, The idea is kind of cool but I like full time lockers. And If I had endless amounts of cash I would probably have gone with an arb up front too. to save some cv's

I dont mind driving my truck with auto-lockers in it. The front doesnt do anything until the a.d.d. kicks in in 4wd. I DD my truck with the rear locker for a year or so. It was fine. I figured its worth a shot. if I hated the front I could always pull it out and sell it.


Dont you have one of those trutracks in the back? they really dont do much when you need them. You can always get some cash for those used too.

So having a front selectable doesn't affect drivability at all? Are you breaking more CV's locked, rather than open?
 
The charcoal wheels look like black from far away. IMO, I'd stick to gunmetal. It looks fantastic combined with IJM. Maybe go with a little darker gunmetal than before.
 
Looks like someone has a few projects to keep him busy for a while! :)

BTW, my 2 cents.... I like the previous wheel color more.... the new one is too close to black, IMO...

That being said, it is only my opinion... so other's may chime in and say the opposite! :)
Opinions are what I'm looking for, thanks for sharing!

I need a better camera, they are a beautiful dark gray during the day. I think we'll be painting my friend's car with it, too. Love the accent on the calipers, I don't mind it...

I like it! Dark wheels on IJM gives me wood.

thank you dylan. BTW, go paint your truck IJM already... I'll road trip out there and help :P

how do you like them ATs in the mud...? lol its ok im running ATs right now, big mistake and im already regretting it but oh well right?

Ugh... I know, I really wanted KM2's, but I really wanted better gas mileage...

I went from 13.4 avg to 15.7 avg, that's a miracle considering my lead foot haha.

But yeah, they're great everywhere that isn't muddy as hell...

I have a lockright in the rear and an aussie locker up front. No selectable BS here. It was pretty inexpensive. i think I have about $550 in my lockers together. And you can install them yourself if you still have open diffs.

Personally I would go ARB over the toy elocker in the back. You wont need a new housing and there isnt that big actuator to get damaged. But I still would go with a detroit or yukon grizzly instead of the arb. im not a fan of selectable lockers, The idea is kind of cool but I like full time lockers. And If I had endless amounts of cash I would probably have gone with an arb up front too. to save some cv's

I dont mind driving my truck with auto-lockers in it. The front doesnt do anything until the a.d.d. kicks in in 4wd. I DD my truck with the rear locker for a year or so. It was fine. I figured its worth a shot. if I hated the front I could always pull it out and sell it.


Dont you have one of those trutracks in the back? they really dont do much when you need them. You can always get some cash for those used too.

Definitely going to sell the truetrac. I like your logic, but I think I'll be sticking with selectable. Dual ARB's would be nuts, and It'd give me a reason to build up a sweet onboard air system.

I'm all for cost, but I'm too picky, haha...

No kidding though, front locker would have been a savior during that last mud trip, might have just gotten free.

Thanks for the info Jason, always a pleasure!

The charcoal wheels look like black from far away. IMO, I'd stick to gunmetal. It looks fantastic combined with IJM. Maybe go with a little darker gunmetal than before.

I was aiming for just a little darker like you mentioned, but it's kind of growing on me. It looks very good in the sunlight... a deep gunmetal with a nice satin finish.

It's not really that hard to paint wheels so I'll consider it if I get over this color.

Thanks for your thoughts!








I went to Burbank today to meet member twitchee2, who sold me a 1st gen roll bar for $40. Will get it cut, welded, and painted soon. I'm definitely in the market for a bad ass shelf setup similar to DirtCo's sweet roll bar. Also ordered a 48" Hi Lift jack (finally) with mount for the bar.
fc2029d1.jpg~original

4454a700.jpg~original


Repainted driffter mount installed today. Ordered a FireStik K-1A quick disconnect because I want to begin parking the 4Runner in the garage someday soon.
3d9e8747.jpg~original

122159fa.jpg~original


Better shots of the wheels, they really make the red calipers pop. I'm going to try this color out for a while and see how it grows on me. I still haven't repainted the centercap logos, that's why they're missing.
a54e7a4b.jpg~original

f0da560c.jpg~original
 
cant wait to see how your shelving system comes out! Sorry I couldnt hang out for to long, so much to do. driving back to chico in the am, wait till you get to see the pics of the setup.
 
So having a front selectable doesn't affect drivability at all? Are you breaking more CV's locked, rather than open?

Heck yeah I break cv's !!!. But then again. I go wheelin at least once a week. and there are not many ifs 4runners going through the hammers, and other hard trails :)
 
autozone CV has life time warranty.

look at my runner, look at all of my vehicles, do you really thing anything from autozone is going on/in my truck? not to mention my father inlaw works for a toyota dealer...


not that changing out CV is a big hard job, but i dont like doing it every time i engage my 4wd. its toyota or it better be a life and death emergency and then im gonna use snapa
 
look at my runner, look at all of my vehicles, do you really thing anything from autozone is going on/in my truck? not to mention my father inlaw works for a toyota dealer...


not that changing out CV is a big hard job, but i dont like doing it every time i engage my 4wd. its toyota or it better be a life and death emergency and then im gonna use snapa

Try CVJ for rebuilt OEM shafts, that is all they use for remans, with okay pricing
 
I'd like some new CV axles. Mine are old and have torn boots, wouldn't mind some fresh ones.


Here's a photo of the Tacoma rubber stripping for the flares:
1ed6bdb7.jpg~original


Received my K&N Drycharger today.
12485dff.jpg~original

c3366291.jpg~original

8e8ccd83.jpg~original

f2ad6ba5.jpg~original



Changed out the Wade In Channel vent visors with AVS brand.
42544fc6.jpg~original

c5d5df54.jpg~original


The Wade front ones followed the whole window frame, both sides cracked and left plastic inside of the window channel. The AVS ones stop short, which is much nicer.

Wade
122f286d.jpg~original


Compared
7630808c.jpg~original


AVS
8d493dca.jpg~original


The rear ones are just about the same:
772bfd4f.jpg~original


For those who encountered Jam protection with their in channel visors, purchase a can of Silicone Lubricant. It keeps rubber in good shape and allows the windows to glide past the visors effortlessly.
7d66cd0d.jpg~original


My black lugs have also arrived, yet to be installed.
15255264.jpg~original



In other news, back during the King of the Hammers trip, I was going pretty fast and accidentally hit a whoop pretty hard. I encountered some hard rubbing from the right wheel at full lock, against the mudflap. There was a slight pull to the right as well.

Steve Hanson, also known as Chaplain, stopped by my house a few days ago. He and I got to talking, and he pointed out that my front right lower control arm bolts had shifted. There are two metal stops on either side to prevent extreme shifting of this bolt. My bolt had shifted enough to flatten one of these metal stops. His advice was to weld a bead against the back side of these metal stops to prevent them from moving in the future.

I went over to my buddy John's place, Japanese Car Specialties, and it turns out that it's a rather common problem. We put the truck in the air and realigned the control arm a bit, which has eliminated the pull.

I'll get those metal stops welded when I can properly modify/weld the first gen roll bar, two birds with one stone.

Here is the bolt I'm talking about, after we shifted it back passed the metal stop.
ba71889e.jpg~original




Also, a special thanks to Dylan (steezemcqueen) for helping me get my 1" Toytec body lift and panhard drop bracket.

More to come!
 
look at my runner, look at all of my vehicles, do you really thing anything from autozone is going on/in my truck? not to mention my father inlaw works for a toyota dealer...


not that changing out CV is a big hard job, but i dont like doing it every time i engage my 4wd. its toyota or it better be a life and death emergency and then im gonna use snapa

im talking about the reman CVs autozone sells, its just as good as oem, and to be honest if you dont have a front locker and you break CVs you need to learn to pick better lines.
 
look at my runner, look at all of my vehicles, do you really thing anything from autozone is going on/in my truck? not to mention my father inlaw works for a toyota dealer...


not that changing out CV is a big hard job, but i dont like doing it every time i engage my 4wd. its toyota or it better be a life and death emergency and then im gonna use snapa

They all break the same for the most part. I wouldnt spend any money on oem cvs when i have had them snap just as easy as parts store ones.


COB
You must have smashed it pretty hard to bump that alignment cam. I know thats common on LT desert trucks. The alignments on these are touchy as is. I ran a center divider over at 30 mph on the way out to koh and my alignment held up so you must have really bottomed out
 
They all break the same for the most part. I wouldnt spend any money on oem cvs when i have had them snap just as easy as parts store ones.


COB
You must have smashed it pretty hard to bump that alignment cam. I know thats common on LT desert trucks. The alignments on these are touchy as is. I ran a center divider over at 30 mph on the way out to koh and my alignment held up so you must have really bottomed out

lol i hit a boulder so hard during a hill climb my front bounced up and the alignment is still good.
 
Will you be taking before and after's of the flares when you paint them?

My flares are faded too. If the SEM paint is durable and sticks well I may take that route. I keep hearing that rattle canning my flares is a terrible idea and that I should cough up and pay the body shop because spray paint will flake away on that type of plastic.
 
look at my runner, look at all of my vehicles, do you really thing anything from autozone is going on/in my truck? not to mention my father inlaw works for a toyota dealer...


not that changing out CV is a big hard job, but i dont like doing it every time i engage my 4wd. its toyota or it better be a life and death emergency and then im gonna use snapa

Japanese cars take well to Autoparts store parts, CV's i do agree that you don't want them from there, but i run almost exclusively Advance Auto's parts when i change my stuff.
 
Will you be taking before and after's of the flares when you paint them?

My flares are faded too. If the SEM paint is durable and sticks well I may take that route. I keep hearing that rattle canning my flares is a terrible idea and that I should cough up and pay the body shop because spray paint will flake away on that type of plastic.

I plasti-dipped my lower bumper valance lately, and cleared over it... looks pretty good IMO .......
 
COB
You must have smashed it pretty hard to bump that alignment cam. I know thats common on LT desert trucks. The alignments on these are touchy as is. I ran a center divider over at 30 mph on the way out to koh and my alignment held up so you must have really bottomed out

I'm not sure how fast I was going when it hit, but I hit it hard. The impact dislodged my battery and bent up both of my front fenders. Everything else seems fine... looked over the whole truck and didn't find anything else.

Will you be taking before and after's of the flares when you paint them?

My flares are faded too. If the SEM paint is durable and sticks well I may take that route. I keep hearing that rattle canning my flares is a terrible idea and that I should cough up and pay the body shop because spray paint will flake away on that type of plastic.

Oh, I'll definitely take a lot of photos. I'm confident that the SEM will work, but I can't give you any guarantees quite yet. It's very durable everywhere else I've used it.

It'd save you the hassles of plastidip and your wallet will thank you!





Installed my black lug nuts. They're short, but look good.
cbb99585.jpg~original

2e7e969a.jpg~original

b465aa00.jpg~original


The antenna quick disconnect came in the mail, but I didn't install it yet.


Picked up a new ride!!
Yesterday, my friend and I were bored. We always talk about the cool things that we would do if we had a cheap project car. A few minutes on craigslist and we found an 89 Ford Probe GT with a blown motor for sale. I bought it for $500.

Check it out here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/all-other-vehicles/118959-cobs-89-pgt.html#post1108535
 
Last edited:
CB antenna quick disconnect. I had to use a bench mounted vise to keep the spring steady as I removed the antenna. Also added a small felt strip on the antenna to prevent any more tail light scuffs/damage.
7100fcf0.jpg~original

2ae61887.jpg~original



Hi-lift mounting bracket for 1st gen roll bar:
c867e25f.jpg~original


Swapped my back seatbelts with the donor's. I'm tired of people slamming their seat belt in the back door. These appear relatively unused and retract like new.

9a9025a6.jpg~original

d4809d54.jpg~original
 
Last edited:

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,080
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top