Compiled: FJ Springs Lift Info for 4th gen

So i just got my 4runner and want to do a little something to it. i stumbled across this forum and then this thread I have read pretty much all the post and like what I see. the one question I have is... Is there a big difference to the OEM FJ struts and say the after market struts like the Monroe ones. If so assuming i can track down some used FJ coils I can just mount those on my stock runner shocks (for the front) to get a litte stiffer ride and a little lift. Then using spring spacers to fine to the ride height aka level as I see fit to my liking.
 
So if I pursue this option (which is quite probable) I get the rear springs and front ones as well, but can I also get the stock FJ shocks to go with 'em? That's my plan. And currently, I have the Daystar Budget Boost on there. Should I leave that, or will I have a higher front end? Also, is this lean mentioned from front to back or from side to side?

Thanks
 
Upgraded to Bilstein 5100s all around with 2012 FJ springs up front. Set the 5100s at the highest setting (2.5) and gained a total of 3". Went with Toytec Superflex rear coils and gained 2" exactly (after a week of settling down). Also added LR UCAs to avoid alignment problems. Got the FJ springs for $50 + shipping from FJ Forum, with only 500 miles on them.
 
New To This

I got a full spring/shock set from a '10 TT and I'm looking to get these bad boys on now, but I've got some apprehension and questions.

I've seen the link to the FJ community that talks about getting them to work on an older FJ and I've seen the comments from X6RUNNER about grinding the strut mounts and chassis mounts on the 4runner to make them fit.

What I'm after is a more detailed explanation of what's need to do this for the runner. There've been many people that have asked and nobody's responded.

How do you grind the strut assembly? How much do you grind? 1mm on each side? Strut mount itself and the bushing inside too? What if I grind too much? Do I need to take everything apart, then grind little by little trying to fit it in after each grind attempt to make sure I don't over do it? That seems like a ton of extra work manuevering the coils in and out of place to check.

For the chassis mounts in back, what size bit are we talking? What size hole do I need?

I LOVE THIS FORUM, and I'm sure there's people who have these answers and could post them for others to reference.

THANKS GUYS!!!!
 
Over A Week Later

Ok folks, I wanted to throw out an update for you.

First, I hope I didn't sound like a DB in my previous post. That was not the intention. I know my post count is extremely low, but I've been lurking this forum for a long time and you're all the reason I bought the runner. Kudos for that!

Second, I've been kicking this upgrade around in my head. Grinding the mounts on a perfectly good set of struts.....ok.....yeah, I can see that working as long as I'm careful. Making the mounting hole larger in the rear of the 4runner, that's a little more concerning, but still not a huge problem. I think I'll manage.

For upgrading later, I'll just have to go with a rear strut setup meant for an FJ. No biggie there. It's probably going to be a while before I can afford my desired suspension swap anyway.

Point of all this, I think I'm going to do this 2010 FJ TT swap and make a write up with pics. I'd like to contribute some solid info here and it might as well be something semi popular.

If you've got any pointers for me, drop em in here. Otherwise, keep an eye out for an update from me after it's done.
 
Here's my 2005 V8 at 0.85. Bilsteins and FJ coils all around. Measures 35" up front and 36" in back so still 1" of rake. Visually looks level. Pleased with everything.
61ddb4561de302e3a9ba2923763bd048_zps92ca80a5.jpg~original
 
I just finished putting in front FJ coils/springs on my 07 v6 4x4 along with the toytec 1/2" spacer. I was expecting close to 2" front but netted around 1.25" on both sides. 34" driver front, 34.5" passenger. Looks a lot better but now I'm wondering if I should put the rear fj coils in? It's coming apart anyway to install air bags but I don't want any more rake than I have now. I wish the front would've got me closer to 2". Lesson learned its easier to match the rear with spacers based on what the front does, I went too conservative.
In case anyone is wondering how difficult it is, I did the no spring compressor method with no air tools, and I installed new rotors/pads at the same time, 3.5 hours. I did not touch the lower control arm bolts, and alignment was still in spec.
 
Good info. ktom3001. I am having mine installed at the stealership tomorrow. I have talked to other shops, most quoted around $500. The stealer wanted $600 so given that I have 2 slipped discs in my back and can't do it, I only trust them to mess around with the Xreas and my baby. I am doing FJ springs (07-09) all around with ZERO miles on them, and 2.5 setting on Bilsteins up front, and a Daystar 1.5 in the back, I will post up before and after measurements when I get it back tomorrow, or soon there after. Hopefully Ark will add them to the thread as people are still doing this swap.
 
Yeah in hindsight I probably should've put 5100's on there at the same time. Then at least I'd have some options with adjusting the front.
I just didn't want to spend more money when I thought I would already get the 2" I was seeking.
 
Bilstein 5100s all around, FJ springs all around Daystar rear

For anybody that has my set up, and considering this lift, here is all the info, I had to piece it all together from about 2 weeks of research to decide, hope this helps somebody.
The lift: FJ springs from an 07 (Zero miles on them, not even a scratch), Bilstein 5100’s front and rear, set to 2.5 max setting front, Daystar 1.5 back, stock 265/65/17’s, first number is before, second is after, keep in mind I have only driven it 3-4 miles since install:

• Front Driver: 33…36.25
• FD Hub up: 19…22.25
• FD Running Brd: 12.75…16
• RD Running Brd: 13.5…15 7/8
• Rear Driver: 34 7/8…37 3/8
• RD Hub up: 21…23
• Front Pass.: 33 1/8…36.25
• FP Hub up: 19…22.5
• FP Running Brd: 12.75…16
• RP Running Brd: 13.5…16
• Rear Pass: 35.25…37 3/8
• RP Hub up: 21…23.25

My Runner is a Limited 4x4 V8

Before:
jconusn-albums-before+lift-picture19528-stock1.jpg



After:
jconusn-albums-after+lift-picture19689-lift-wheels-tires.jpg


__________________
2005 Limited V8 4x4|XREAS|Gibson Exhaust|126k|5100's at 2.5, 1.5 Daystar back, Brand New '07 FJ Springs,|
Coming soon: 265/70/17 Dynapro ATM RF10, 1.5" Pathfinder Outdoors spacers, Hot metallic gun metal grey plasi dipped wheels.
 
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I just finished putting in front FJ coils/springs on my 07 v6 4x4 along with the toytec 1/2" spacer. I was expecting close to 2" front but netted around 1.25" on both sides. 34" driver front, 34.5" passenger. Looks a lot better but now I'm wondering if I should put the rear fj coils in? It's coming apart anyway to install air bags but I don't want any more rake than I have now. I wish the front would've got me closer to 2". Lesson learned its easier to match the rear with spacers based on what the front does, I went too conservative.
In case anyone is wondering how difficult it is, I did the no spring compressor method with no air tools, and I installed new rotors/pads at the same time, 3.5 hours. I did not touch the lower control arm bolts, and alignment was still in spec.


Quick update here and a bit of a warning. As mentioned above I did the no spring compressor method and used a pry bar to get the LCA's down far enough as I'd seen in another thread. This was difficult but it worked, sort of.
Upon inspection today it appears I pinched both of by lower ball joint boots and they are leaking grease now. Now I will have to replace the boots ASAP which I'm not looking forward to.
If I had it to do over again I would just loosen the LCA bolts after marking the alignment cam positions. This lets the arm drop very easily and you have to get an alignment anyway so why fight with it.
 
[MENTION=95647]jconusn[/MENTION] - Did you have any alignment issues after the install? Caster seems to be an issue sometimes with this particular setup if you're not using aftermarket UCA's. Thanks in advance.
 
[MENTION=95647]jconusn[/MENTION] - Did you have any alignment issues after the install? Caster seems to be an issue sometimes with this particular setup if you're not using aftermarket UCA's. Thanks in advance.

I will let you know when I install the new tires and spacers and get it aligned. It seems fine now actually. No pull and no floating
 
I will let you know when I install the new tires and spacers and get it aligned. It seems fine now actually. No pull and no floating

Scratch that, tires didn't come in time to get it done today, but I got 'em so I will hopefully update tomorrow
 
Finally lifted

XREAS Delete, 5100's set max, 2010 FJ TT Springs and Daystar 1.5" rear spacers...before and after
photo2_zpsaabcb17d.jpg~original


photo1_zps442c114a.jpg~original


I'm very pleased with the results and I'm glad I didn't have to grind or drill anything to make it all fit.

What do u think I should do next? Tires? Spacers? LED's/HID's? Hmmm...
 
XREAS Delete, 5100's set max, 2010 FJ TT Springs and Daystar 1.5" rear spacers...before and after
photo2_zpsaabcb17d.jpg~original


photo1_zps442c114a.jpg~original


I'm very pleased with the results and I'm glad I didn't have to grind or drill anything to make it all fit.

What do u think I should do next? Tires? Spacers? LED's/HID's? Hmmm...
Looking good my man! I think I would go with Tires next, but you might have to do some trimming of the mud flap, I did and I only went to 265/70/17
 
Can you post a pic of that truck on a level ground? Im about to install the same exact setup, keep debating putting the spacer in and maxing out the front or leaving the spacer out and bringing it down a notch.

See any need for uca's with your setup?
 
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are people using the fj coils cause they are just cheaper than lets say some OME coils or does it ride more like stock
 

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