I am about to put 2010 FJ Cruiser 4x4 struts, springs and shocks on our 2003 4Runner V8 4x4. Which Toytec spacer should I use? the toytec top1-t? I just want the normal flat to slight rake. thanks Phil
Don't know. I used Bilstien 5100s which are adjustable in the front. I would suggest that you try the toytec 1/2 inch front spacers, which should give you about 1" of lift
in the front. The FJ rear springs should give you slight lift in the rear... probably less than 1" from what I understand, so with the the 1/2" spacer upfront, and the slight lift from the FJ coils in the rear, you should sit level, or still have a slight rake. That's my understanding, but I'm still pretty new at this... if there are any "experts" feel free to chime in. Also, there is a spreadsheet you can look at that shows people's experiences. I believe it is in this thread.
Does it still hold true from the original post that only 07-09 FJ springs work for this swap? Thanks dudes
No. '07 and newer springs work. If you go with 2010 or newer SHOCKS from the FJ cruiser, the lower bushing on the shocks needs to be changed to fit the 4runner.
To change the bushings it requires that you press the old bushings out, and press the new bushings in. Some people have done it using a vice. There are posts on this forum giving more specifics. Use google to search. In a regular google search box type:
site:
4th Gen T4Rs - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum fj shocks bushings
or try similar search words until you find a post that's helpful.
P.S. -- I just did the swap, having no prior experience with this.
Here's my $0.02
1 -- The method that other have posted on here about marking the position of the cams on the lower control arm, and then
loosening it to allow the shock to drop is absolutely the way to go. Read up about it... I'm not giving you the full instructions here.
I actually searched and found a youtube video showing the procedure, and it really helped me to see it in video.
2 - Removing the sway bar end links really made a huge difference. It allowed more room to work, and more movement to get parts in and out.
3 - Having a friend available to help for parts of the swap was a huge time saver. I struggled for hours alone on some parts, and then got it done in about 30 minutes
with a friend to help.
4 - Having a set of ratcheting closed end wrenches made ALL of the difference for tightening and loosening the top nut on the shocks. I did the original install
using a crescent wrench and pliers.... big mistake... it took HOURS. When I decided to lower the adjustment on the front, I went to Home Depot and bought
a gift set of metric and SAE ratcheting wrenches for $50 for the set. It took me about 1/2 hr per side to jack up the truck, drop the shock, adjust it, and put it back.
This was alone (but with jack stands and a good floor jack) and in the dark. What a difference!
Spraying with PB Blaster the day before helped to remove many of the nuts,
but I still ended up cutting off and replacing the rear sway bar end links.
I also upgraded the front and rear sway bar holders with grease-able polyurethane replacements while I was in there.
I hope that my inexperience helps other noobies who try this swap.
I found this video useful for info, tips and images:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkVLBOnAifc
and this one too:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5E6u7dC7EHg
Good luck!
Sincerely,
-Phil