Crank Shaft & Pulley Issues during Timing Belt change

[ryankmasuda]

Hi you guys,

I'm in need to advice. I've been taking my time for the past couple of days to replace my timing belt and components and I've had some problems with my crank shaft pulley. I made the jig with a 2x4 to hold the pulley with two bolts and a center hole for the socket to go thru. So after using a breaker bar on the crank shaft bolt the pulley stood still but the cams were moving along with the timing belt.

I ended up getting an impact wrench to get the crank shaft bolt off and when I took the pulley off I realized I was up sh*t creek without a paddle. The notch on the pulley for the shim is cracked and part of the shim is broken off into the crank shaft.

My question is should I pull the gear thing on the crank shaft that hold the timing belt then remove the partial shim and replace the gear, shim, and crank shaft pulley? How do I go about removing the old gear on the crank shaft? what is the tool called to pull the gear?

I added two pictures to show you, one is a fairly good close up.

My second question is how do you remove the A/C compressor to get to the timing belt hydraulic tensioner? How many bolts are holding it down?

Thank you for any help or input. I'm getting sick and tired of finding new things to replace and I really want to just get this completed and move on.

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[yc4runner]

I just did this exact same thing with mine.

Im gonna go ahead and tell you to call toyota and order that gear its a toyota only part costs about 55 bucks because it will not come off with a puller, i had to soak it with penetrating oil and then drive a pry bar behind it to force it off and ended up breaking the little teeth off the back of it, they are very fragile BTW.

For the AC compressor there are 4 12mm bolts that hold the compressor to the bracket. Remove them, the top 2 will come all the way out but the bottom 2 will not they hit the frame just loosen all the bolts and set the compressor out of the way.

Next the AC compressor bracket bolts to the engine block with 5 14mm bolts 4 on the side and 1 on the front, loosen them and it just falls off, just set it aside.

The tensioner is held on with 2 12mm bolts, more than likely youll have to take this all the way off to get the new belt on.

The harmonic balancer(crankshaft pulley) is gonna cost about 220-260 dollars at the local parts house or you can go to URD's website and get the high performance aluminum one for around 340 i think.

Also that keyway in the crankshaft is metric and none of the parts places around me had any metric ones so I had to go to toyota for that too, $1.60 for it.

Oh and make sure that you get all your timing marks lined up before you reassemble to whole motor only top start it and discover the timing is off....

Best of luck feel free to PM me with any questions

E

Also the gear on the crankshaft is called just that, crankshaft gear surprisingly no special toyota name for it haha

 

[attitudeofgratitud]

Try to run a long bolt(3-4" long) in one of the threaded holes on the side of the gear. I can't remember the thread pitch off hand. 6 or 8 x 1.25. Put a pair of visegrips on it towards the head of the bolt. Hit the visegrips with a hammer. You may get lucky and it comes off. Otherwise you're gonna be prying. Watch the oil pump if you have to pry.

 

[ryankmasuda]

yc4runner - Thank you for the info. Knowing how many bolts I had to remove made it easier to figure out. I'll have to try and get the gear off sometime this week. I'm definitely not looking forward to this.

 

[ryankmasuda]

So by threading a bolt into one of the holes on the gear am i trying to thread the bolt all the way in then vise-grip it? I'd assume hit it in a clock-wise or CC-wise motion to break the seal on it but I think the pry bar method may be my only luck since the keyway is stuck in there?

 

[yc4runner]

well my gear had a lot of rust buildup between it and the crankshaft, its supposed to just slide on and off with ease so i doubt using a bolt vise grips and hammer are gonna work if its like mine was BUT its worth a try so you dont screw up your gear if at all possible

 

[ryankmasuda]

If one of the teeth on the timing gear was broken would it not let my engine turn over? I got both cams TDC and I got my timing gear TDC like the Haynes repair manual says and I can get the engine to maintain and idle. It boggs and then kills itself. If the small teeth on the timing gear was busted would it effect the knock sensor so my engine wont run?

 

[Singtoe]

If one of the teeth on the timing gear was broken would it not let my engine turn over? I got both cams TDC and I got my timing gear TDC like the Haynes repair manual says and I can get the engine to maintain and idle. It boggs and then kills itself. If the small teeth on the timing gear was busted would it effect the knock sensor so my engine wont run?

If it is missing a tooth, you need to go ahead and replace it.

 

[Singtoe]

Hi you guys,

I'm in need to advice. I've been taking my time for the past couple of days to replace my timing belt and components and I've had some problems with my crank shaft pulley. I made the jig with a 2x4 to hold the pulley with two bolts and a center hole for the socket to go thru. So after using a breaker bar on the crank shaft bolt the pulley stood still but the cams were moving along with the timing belt.

I ended up getting an impact wrench to get the crank shaft bolt off and when I took the pulley off I realized I was up sh*t creek without a paddle. The notch on the pulley for the shim is cracked and part of the shim is broken off into the crank shaft.

My question is should I pull the gear thing on the crank shaft that hold the timing belt then remove the partial shim and replace the gear, shim, and crank shaft pulley? How do I go about removing the old gear on the crank shaft? what is the tool called to pull the gear?

I added two pictures to show you, one is a fairly good close up.

My second question is how do you remove the A/C compressor to get to the timing belt hydraulic tensioner? How many bolts are holding it down?

Thank you for any help or input. I'm getting sick and tired of finding new things to replace and I really want to just get this completed and move on.

<a href="http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a155/ryankmasuda/Toyota%204Runner%20Build/?action=view&current=IMAG0153.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a155/ryankmasuda/Toyota%204Runner%20Build/IMAG0153.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a155/ryankmasuda/Toyota%204Runner%20Build/?action=view&current=IMAG0152.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a155/ryankmasuda/Toyota%204Runner%20Build/IMAG0152.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

It looks like you need to go ahead and replace your crank shaft seal too. - While you have everything apart.

 

[DIY77]

use PB blaster to soak woodruff key and gear should help...

[MENTION=49815]ryankmasuda[/MENTION]: thank you for insights and tips on how to pull gear off. I'm posting your reply here, hope it helps other diyers ...
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So when you have the crank shaft pulley off there should be a Woodruff Key exposed. It's what holds the crank shaft pulley and timing gear on the crank shaft. I recommend using PB Blaster and soaking the key with It. Now on a newer vehicle it should slide out easily but on an older vehicle moisture and age will make it difficult to remove. Once it has soaked for awhile use vise grips to remove the key. Once the key is removed you may need to soak the timing gear where it mates with the crank shaft. Then use a pulley puller to remove the timing gear. I recommend renting the puller or buying a nice Snap On or Matco one.