Crazydubman's 97 limited runner build

You can see in this picture that there is no way with the Camburg UCA's to even get a 1/2" of turn on the wrench with the suspension fully drooped out. I tried to jack up the hub enough to get a wrench in there but it puts too much preload on the spring and I can't turn it.

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I may have been ok with stock upper control arms but There is no way I can get in there with the Camburgs. Thats why I was thinking of swapping to a 14 inch spring to get a little more accessability. Hell if i went with installing a new spring I could always look into a 16" and back the collar off all the way so that it would have about 1.5" of preload on it from the start.

I figure un bolting the UCA is the easiest option. Only takes a few minutes with a box end and ratchet. you don't have to press out the bolt like you do the ball joint on the stock arms so its way easier.

Oh and the easiest adjustment mark that is already on there is the allen set screw. ;)
 
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Yea, I see what you mean..

Here's the measurements. Just keep in mind I have a bit more weight up front than you do.

Driver
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Passenger
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Damn that's a lot of preload. I thought mine was more, but it looks like I have a good amount less than you guys. This seems about right since I have a stock bumper and no winch. Hopefully my Elite won't drop me down too much.

Passenger
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Driver
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Great rig Dubman. Eventually I want to go this route.

Hey question: Do you know if there is such a thing as a half inch rear spring spacer? I checked Daystar's site and they don't have anything less than 1.5". I'd like to clean my stance up a bit just for appearances sake. I usually carry a load in the rear and can't stand that rear sag, even after putting on brand new '99 "tall" OEM coils.
 
Yea, I see what you mean..

Here's the measurements. Just keep in mind I have a bit more weight up front than you do.

Driver
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Passenger
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Guess I should have attached the right picture. oops haha.

I edited the last post with the correct picture.

I just measured again and it looks like I have 1.75" on each side.

ARKRWLR -
It looks like you only have about 1/2" more preload on your setup. Your current setup sits at about a 3" lift over stock? how much shaft is showing on the coilover? That should give a better idea of how much it is lifted over mine. You have the extended travel 2.5" as well correct?

As far as weight, you have me on the bumper by 40+ lbs. Think the addicted offroad is about 65lbs. Do you have a winch? If not then our fronts are probably pretty similar with my 9000lb and synthetic line.

I should have Skids on soon so that will add some more weight to that front end to settle it down.
 
Damn that's a lot of preload. I thought mine was more, but it looks like I have a good amount less than you guys. This seems about right since I have a stock bumper and no winch. Hopefully my Elite won't drop me down too much.

Your current Preload is where mine is at now. You may be running a longer spring than SAW uses so that may change things.

I may dial mine to 2.25 and see where that settles me. I don't want it to be too stiff so I only want to throw in enough to make it work.
 
Your current Preload is where mine is at now. You may be running a longer spring than SAW uses so that may change things.

I may dial mine to 2.25 and see where that settles me. I don't want it to be too stiff so I only want to throw in enough to make it work.

No, the Donahoe's use a 13" coil as well. I'm almost at 3" and less weight than you so it makes sense. I'd go at lease 2.25".
 
Great rig Dubman. Eventually I want to go this route.

Hey question: Do you know if there is such a thing as a half inch rear spring spacer? I checked Daystar's site and they don't have anything less than 1.5". I'd like to clean my stance up a bit just for appearances sake. I usually carry a load in the rear and can't stand that rear sag, even after putting on brand new '99 "tall" OEM coils.

Hey thanks for the compliments.

The options I know if for rear spacers would be either the 10mm trim packers from Toytec

Rear Coil spring spacers 10MM - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits

Or the Daystar 1.5's

You can probably cut down a set of Daystars though. What thickness are you looking for? I hav emy old setup that I may be willing to part with.
 
No, the Donahoe's use a 13" coil as well. I'm almost at 3" and less weight than you so it makes sense. I'd go at lease 2.25".

I think I will go with 2.25 to start. Only take about 10-15 minutes per side to put back together and pull apart if I need to adjust a little more in. I may just need to get more weight in the back of the runner to keep the rake down.

My main focus is to keep the CV boots alive and not preload so much that it won't stuff easily when wheelin.
 
It looks like you only have about 1/2" more preload on your setup. Your current setup sits at about a 3" lift over stock? Pretty close, it's within a .25"

How much shaft is showing on the coilover? Will measure later. That should give a better idea of how much it is lifted over mine. You have the extended travel 2.5" as well correct? Yes.

As far as weight, you have me on the bumper by 40+ lbs. Think the addicted offroad is about 65lbs. Do you have a winch? No. If not then our fronts are probably pretty similar with my 9000lb and synthetic line.

I should have Skids on soon so that will add some more weight to that front end to settle it down.

They probably are. The bumpers are probably close to the same weight as well. I think the ARB might be a little more cus of tubing, but not much. I also have the Skid-Row skid which is awkwardly heavy. The BAMF front LCA skids are going on this weekend. So it all adds up. When I get a winch I'll have to adjust some more.
 
ok cool. Looks like 2.25" threads showing will be a good place to start and should yeild another 1.5-2" with my current setup.

I will also measure the shaft showing on mine when I get home today. Will be good for comparison at least.
 
Did you ever get the E-locker fixed? If not I would try engaging it then make sharp right and left hand turns. If it engages with that keep re-engaging it over and over to lube it up. Mine was stuck too I used this method to get it working again.

Ive heard also you can take it off clean it up and it will work again as long as its not fully seized.
 
Hey there diesel.

I guess I never posted pictures but I pulled the E-locker motor apart and it looked brand new.

I can jump it with a battery and direct contacts to the plug on the motor.

When I press the button on the dash, the light on the dash flashes showing that the locked position is waiting for a signal, and you can hear a relay click under the dash. The problem is that the motor is not activating at all when I press the button.

I need to get under the dash and see whether I something is unplugged or loose. Maybe the harness got chaffed under the runner but I have not been able to locate anything thus far.

Still looking in to it but have been continuing to address other items for the time being.
 
Well this weekend was productive. I finally got the front suspension spun down.

I took it to 2.5" of threads. That puts it at .25" more than ARKRWLR.

Measurements are about 1.5" difference front to back now and I think it sits perfect. There is no more tire rubbing on full lock, or on the firewall. Can't wait to get it in the rocks and see whether there is rubbing under full compression.

Here are some pictures of how it sits now. There is still the 4 beadlocks (400lbs) in the back extra and the spare underneath.

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Ride is still comfortable and feels like it soaks up the bumps fairly well. It will be good to see how it does in the rocks in a couple weeks.

Now I just need to get the rear bumps extended and I should be ready to head out again.

I'm hoping to order the adapters for the beadlocks next week so I can finally swap the tires over and start running those.
 
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Oh and I guess I should also mention that the caster is about 2 degrees now so that is probably whats helping with the firewall rubbing. Now to get it flexed out to see if I still have room for the adapters without the need for extensive firewall work. :hat:
 
Thanks a lot. :cheers:

It helped a ton that I was able to sell a bunch of parts after reconsidering the end goal. With selling the trailer, 1 ton axles, and 38's, that basically paid for the whole suspension, roof rack, getting the beadlocks mounted (Adapters being ordered next week) and the brake upgrades. Its coming together faster than expected but then again, It took about 2 years to compile the other items so I guess it hasn't been that fast with all things considered. ;):

With getting married in August, its like a mad dash to get all the large items done with prior. I'm hoping I can get the rear tire carrier sorted out before then but most likely will have to wait till after. Only other items that I would like to get done, but can wait till after wedding will be 4.88's, front locker, 35's and some beefed up CV's like the Lotus development ones. The internal cage sadly is still a ways off still too.
 
Any7offroad... finally finished up the prototype gas tank skid that they are ready to put into production.

It's all 3/16". All mounting tabs and brackets are welded up for easy install.

there are drain holes along the side and a notch out of the inside edge to clear my drive shaft which already hits the tank without the skit on full articulated stuff.

The large section on the inner edge is because that is another place my drive shaft makes contact.

... They should be able to start making them to order here soon. They are making a couple small revisions but should be ready to roll here pretty quick.

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do you know whether Any7offroad is offering those for sale yet?
 

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