Crazydubman's 97 limited runner build

I can swing by the shop tomorrow on my way home and ask if you want.

I will see whether they have pricing sorted out for them yet as well. :fro:
 
Just talked to Darren at the shop (One of the owners) and he said that the pricing on the skid would be $290 + ship.

They are pretty much ready at this point to start producing. He wants to make one more skid based off just the jig and Cad file to confirm fitments then they can start to make them for customers.

If you want to get a hold of them, you can call the shop at:
(510)227-6645

Or email Darren at [email protected]

They will be starting the belly skid in the next couple weeks as well for those interested in something different that whats currently out there. After that they will work there way forward with the front crossmember to steering rack skid then the IFS front skid.
 
I guess I should add the shots from when I got a chance to flex it out at the shop.

You can really see the need for the clearancing for the driveshaft with how much my swings over to the tank.

Remember that my yoke moves way more than most as it already hits the gas tank without a skid.

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With the amount of articulation that my particular setup has, there is really nothing I can do to avoid it. If I had a body lift maybe I could have raised the tank but thats about it. Most people will not rub on the skid with a basic toytec lift or bilstein 5100's as it doesn't droop as far. Seeing as Any7 built it around my setup, 99% of the people that purchase one will have no clearance issues what so ever. With the new heimed links in the rear, I think it may even pose more of a problem but won't know till I get them in there.
 
Well I finally got around to getting the wind fairing finished up and the front bumper aligned. Had to shim the crossmember a bit to tilt the bumper back.

Should be able to get the crossmember welded in now. Hoping to take care of that next week so I don't have to worry to much about winching anymore.

Here is the bumper now aligned as it should be

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And here is the front fairing for the whitson rack. I wanted to make sure it extended to the roof so that it would provide the best possible aerodynamics possible.

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Its a bit rough around the edges but not bad for a first attempt. If I want something cleaner down the road, the hard part has already been taken care of. The zipties are only there because the material is so thin that it vibrated really bad while driving
 
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haha looks good tho. :clap2:

Thanks man. Always feels good to know that at least one person besides myself likes the work put into it. :)

might you happen to have a build thread and/or template for cutting out that wind fairing?

Sorry I don't... only the paper cutout that I did is on post 118 of the whitson's Christmas sale thread.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/129748-wmw-christmas-full-length-rack-special-8.html

I just used an ABS plastic sheet measuring 24x72" and 1/16th thick. If I do it again, I would like to use 1/8" or even 3/16" to help with rigidity. I could have probably gotten away with about 20x68" in dimentions. I figured a little extra couldn't hurt. It only cost about $25 for the whole sheet from TAP Plastics.

The problem you would run into is that I had my mounting feet an extra 1/4"-1/2" longer to give a little more height. Also, I slid my rack as far back as I could unlike most that have purchased them. If you were to use my exact template, you would end up having to modify it for the differences between your setup and mine.

Example: It would be taller if you slid the rack forward, but slightly shorter than mine with the lower mounting feet. There would be too many variances seeing as the fairing is not just on the rack itself.

If you just made a wrap for the rack itself and didn't drop it down to the roof, It would be way easier to make a template. If I find that I am really not feeling the visual snug to the roof approach I may cut the fairing down to just the rack which would be pretty easy at this point and would make for a universal template.

I hope that explains what you were looking for.
 
Sorry I don't... only the paper cutout that I did is on post 118 of the whitson's Christmas sale thread.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/129748-wmw-christmas-full-length-rack-special-8.html

I just used an ABS plastic sheet measuring 24x72" and 1/16th thick. If I do it again, I would like to use 1/8" or even 3/16" to help with rigidity. I could have probably gotten away with about 20x68" in dimentions. I figured a little extra couldn't hurt. It only cost about $25 for the whole sheet from TAP Plastics.

The problem you would run into is that I had my mounting feet an extra 1/4"-1/2" longer to give a little more height. Also, I slid my rack as far back as I could unlike most that have purchased them. If you were to use my exact template, you would end up having to modify it for the differences between your setup and mine.

Example: It would be taller if you slid the rack forward, but slightly shorter than mine with the lower mounting feet. There would be too many variances seeing as the fairing is not just on the rack itself.

If you just made a wrap for the rack itself and didn't drop it down to the roof, It would be way easier to make a template. If I find that I am really not feeling the visual snug to the roof approach I may cut the fairing down to just the rack which would be pretty easy at this point and would make for a universal template.

I hope that explains what you were looking for.


yes, that helps, thanks!

I sure hope Josh made the mounting feet on my own WMW roof rack slightly (¼" - ½") longer, because I would also like to mount my roof rack the same way you did by retaining the three (3) cross bars on the roof under the rack... or was that a modification (longer mounting feet) that you did yourself after you already had the rack???
 
I had requested slightly longer feet as I wanted to make sure when I was running hard out in the desert through washboard etc, that i wouldn't have issues with a loaded rack deflecting enough to hit the roof. There is still room under mine with the crossbars so you might be ok with keeping them mounted. I would try it and see. It definitely helps keep everything more solid. You may have tight clearancing with the screw in mounts on the sides of the center supports, but hey, if you can get it to work I highly encourage it. They help stiffen the roof mounts significantly.
 
Update:

Just put my order in with Wheelers Offroad for a 10lb brushed finish Source CO2 sport series setup. I had the 20ft line swapped out with a 30ft so I shouldn't have any issues reaching the front tires without having to remove the tank.

Should ship today and be at my work Wednesday so I can get it filled and mounted before the hopefull snow wheeling trip on the 17th with Stockwell45 up in Murphy/Sonora area.

Finally getting to the end of the round 1 mod list. :)
 
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I had requested slightly longer feet as I wanted to make sure when I was running hard out in the desert through washboard etc, that i wouldn't have issues with a loaded rack deflecting enough to hit the roof. There is still room under mine with the crossbars so you might be ok with keeping them mounted. I would try it and see. It definitely helps keep everything more solid. You may have tight clearancing with the screw in mounts on the sides of the center supports, but hey, if you can get it to work I highly encourage it. They help stiffen the roof mounts significantly.

so without the additional height, the only potential issue I might encounter would be accessing and tightening the screw-in mounts/knobs on each side of the center supports?

I sure hope Josh made my own WMW roof rack with the slightly longer support legs like yours, even though I did not specifically request it, because your build and how you mounted yours with the crossbars in place on the roof itself for extra support is what actually inspired me to finally order mine...
 
If the rack is 1/4" lower, you may have clearance issues getting to the knobs but I think there was enough room to get in there. It will be tight but you may be able to make it work.
 
UPDATE:

I finally was able to get my rear bump stops installed. I should be able to get pictures with the wheel off this weekend but this will have to do for now.

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The bump stop is a Daystar progressive competition one. Its 4.5" tall and has progressive compression. I think the steel spacer is 2.5" tall as well.

It should do the trick. It should hit about 1.5" before the shock starts to compress its bump isolator on vertical compression. I think it was about 2" on the articulated stuff.

With a static articulated compression with no weight in the back of the runner, it stopped compressing with about 1/4" shaft showing on top of the shock bump stop. When its loaded up on the trail it should be perfect for what it needs to be.

Looking forward to trying it out in the sierra's next weekend with Stockwell45.

With any luck I should be getting the rear lower links installed next week before I head out.

Stay tuned. :cheers:
 
Heading up to bear valley next Friday after work. Gonna stay at a friends cabin in Arnold. Boarding Saturday then Sunday heading out to Columbia and Sonora to do some wheeling around there then head home. Should be a fun weekend for sure.:becky:
 

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