Daily Driver 3RZ 4Runner Build

[UnderFire]

Winter time means I'm probably gonna get more stuff done on my projects, finally knocking this one out. One spindle gusset welded on, the other one ready to go. Gonna get fresh bearings put in and install these along with the Total Chaos UCA's I bought a few months ago within the next few weeks.

 

[UnderFire]

Update:

O2 sensor fit the provided bung, that's a win.
Figured out what fittings I need for all of my gauges and found them, another win.
Found a matching exhaust flange and everything I need to make a semi janky DIY exhaust. still winning.
Everything I need is sitting in an ebay cart waiting for my order.

Waiting to hear back on how the vacuum is supposed to be. Because I honestly have no clue.

Also, dropping the spindles off tomorrow to get fresh bearings.

 

[Mc1337sauce]

Update:

O2 sensor fit the provided bung, that's a win.
Figured out what fittings I need for all of my gauges and found them, another win.
Found a matching exhaust flange and everything I need to make a semi janky DIY exhaust. still winning.
Everything I need is sitting in an ebay cart waiting for my order.

Waiting to hear back on how the vacuum is supposed to be. Because I honestly have no clue.

Also, dropping the spindles off tomorrow to get fresh bearings.

Making good progress man! :thumb:

I just whipped these up in Photoshop, hopefully they help clarify the vacuum routing. It's pretty straightforward for this engine, but I definitely know that it can be overwhelming trying to figure everything out at once. If you don't have bulk line in stock, I recommend picking up an assortment (SiliconeIntakes is a good source), as these lines are at least three different sizes (can't remember exactly how many different types there are).





I believe that covers vacuum for the turbo conversion, but it's been a couple years since I did mine so I might be missing something. If you need any clarification just let me know.

 

[UnderFire]

Making good progress man! :thumb:

I just whipped these up in Photoshop, hopefully they help clarify the vacuum routing. It's pretty straightforward for this engine, but I definitely know that it can be overwhelming trying to figure everything out at once. If you don't have bulk line in stock, I recommend picking up an assortment (SiliconeIntakes is a good source), as these lines are at least three different sizes (can't remember exactly how many different types there are).





I believe that covers vacuum for the turbo conversion, but it's been a couple years since I did mine so I might be missing something. If you need any clarification just let me know.

I've got this stuff figured out:

Bov is 100% plumbed, directly to front of intake so it gets vacuum at idle.

Factory stuff is good, PCV and Booster left alone. The EVAP vent goes to the pre turbo intake port by the bov recirculation port.

I know the FPR needs to see boost but not vacuum.

I'll get that front crackcase vent hooked up easily.

Really my main problem is I have a line from the fitting on the compressor housing, it comes to a tee with one port plugged, the other had a line, I don't know what to. I know this connects to one of the wastegate ports.

And, the wastegate is a huge one, I don't know anything about the vacuum function of it, and my tial 38mm has 4 separate ports, I know what none of these do.




Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

 

[Mc1337sauce]

I've got this stuff figured out:

Bov is 100% plumbed, directly to front of intake so it gets vacuum at idle.

Factory stuff is good, PCV and Booster left alone. The EVAP vent goes to the pre turbo intake port by the bov recirculation port.

I know the FPR needs to see boost but not vacuum.

I'll get that front crackcase vent hooked up easily.

Really my main problem is I have a line from the fitting on the compressor housing, it comes to a tee with one port plugged, the other had a line, I don't know what to. I know this connects to one of the wastegate ports.

And, the wastegate is a huge one, I don't know anything about the vacuum function of it, and my tial 38mm has 4 separate ports, I know what none of these do.




Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

I'd venture to guess that the tee with the port plugged originally ran to the wastegate, with the other port that is now plugged running to a boost gauge. I have my boost gauge referencing the brake booster hose since it was best for routing in my case.

For the wastegate itself, if you are running it on spring pressure only (i.e. no boost controller), take a look at this diagram from TiAL. You should be leaving the top air ports open, and plugging two of the three bottom air ports. Then, run a vacuum line from the compressor housing nipple to the last open bottom air port. You should have a banjo fitting/nipple to facilitate connection to that air port, as well as thread-in plugs to plug those remaining two bottom air ports. There are also water ports if your wastegate is a v-band MV-S (not sure about the old flanged 38mm), so make sure to pay close attention when plugging ports. The water ports can be left open if not water cooling, as they bear no weight on boost control at all. Hopefully that helps. Also, don't forget to make sure the correct wastegate spring for your application is installed in the wastegate before bolting it up in the truck, as its a royal PITA to change the spring afterward without pulling the wastegate again.

 

[UnderFire]

I'd venture to guess that the tee with the port plugged originally ran to the wastegate, with the other port that is now plugged running to a boost gauge. I have my boost gauge referencing the brake booster hose since it was best for routing in my case.

For the wastegate itself, if you are running it on spring pressure only (i.e. no boost controller), take a look at this diagram from TiAL. You should be leaving the top air ports open, and plugging two of the three bottom air ports. Then, run a vacuum line from the compressor housing nipple to the last open bottom air port. You should have a banjo fitting/nipple to facilitate connection to that air port, as well as thread-in plugs to plug those remaining two bottom air ports. There are also water ports if your wastegate is a v-band MV-S (not sure about the old flanged 38mm), so make sure to pay close attention when plugging ports. The water ports can be left open if not water cooling, as they bear no weight on boost control at all. Hopefully that helps. Also, don't forget to make sure the correct wastegate spring for your application is installed in the wastegate before bolting it up in the truck, as its a royal PITA to change the spring afterward without pulling the wastegate again.

That's mine the V-band MVS. Sounds simple enough, from that I'm getting that I just need the line from the turbo ran into any of the lower ports, plug the other 2 and the rest is all irrelevant to me. Nice, I was hoping it would be that easy.

Just ordered up the rest of the stuff, so this should all fall right into place from here.

Where does your oil feed line hook up by the way? I thought it was to the filter housing, but the supplied fitting is slightly too small.

 

[Mc1337sauce]

That's mine the V-band MVS. Sounds simple enough, from that I'm getting that I just need the line from the turbo ran into any of the lower ports, plug the other 2 and the rest is all irrelevant to me. Nice, I was hoping it would be that easy.

Just ordered up the rest of the stuff, so this should all fall right into place from here.

Where does your oil feed line hook up by the way? I thought it was to the filter housing, but the supplied fitting is slightly too small.

Oil feed does come from the filter housing, but the housing is different on 2RZ engines from the 3RZ. If your kit came from a 2RZ truck, you'll need to find the correct fitting. KO supplies both with their kits, but yours may not have it. I believe the oil line is -3 AN, but I can't remember what the filter housing is - many Toyota filter housings are threaded for 1/4 BPST, but I would ask Kris at KO to confirm unless the exact fitting needed is detailed on a forum.

LCE's turbo kit install instructions say 1/4 NPT, which will work, but 1/4 BPST is *technically* the correct fitting if it is indeed in that size range.

Here's the LCE instruction PDF if you want to reference it: http://www.lcengineering.com/LCInst...1017_ 1071030_ 1071031_ 2RZ-3RZ Turbo Kit.pdf

 

[UnderFire]

Oil feed does come from the filter housing, but the housing is different on 2RZ engines from the 3RZ. If your kit came from a 2RZ truck, you'll need to find the correct fitting. KO supplies both with their kits, but yours may not have it. I believe the oil line is -3 AN, but I can't remember what the filter housing is - many Toyota filter housings are threaded for 1/4 BPST, but I would ask Kris at KO to confirm unless the exact fitting needed is detailed on a forum.

LCE's turbo kit install instructions say 1/4 NPT, which will work, but 1/4 BPST is *technically* the correct fitting if it is indeed in that size range.

Here's the LCE instruction PDF if you want to reference it: http://www.lcengineering.com/LCInst...1017_ 1071030_ 1071031_ 2RZ-3RZ Turbo Kit.pdf

It's way bigger than 1/4" that I'm certain of. I'm thinking I have an m14 size adapter from a 2RZ, and I need one that's M16x1.5 to fit mine. I'm really hoping the differences don't carry over to the downpipe, not having to modify it will save a lot of headache.

One last question, where is your return line bung welded in your oil pan?

 

[Mc1337sauce]

It's way bigger than 1/4" that I'm certain of. I'm thinking I have an m14 size adapter from a 2RZ, and I need one that's M16x1.5 to fit mine. I'm really hoping the differences don't carry over to the downpipe, not having to modify it will save a lot of headache.

One last question, where is your return line bung welded in your oil pan?

1/4 pipe thread doesn't mean a 1/4 inch nominal diameter; the drill size for a 1/4 NPT tap is 7/16, so basically half an inch. I think one of the ports on the filter housing is 1/4 BPST, while there is another one that is M16, but I would definitely ask Kris at KO to be sure so you don't end up buying anything you don't need. I know one port on the housing is pre-filter (dirty), and the other is post (clean), but I'm not sure which is which. I wish I had my truck with me at the moment because I could just go take a look to confirm for you myself.

As for the oil return bung, take a look at 7:18 in this portion of my turbo install series; it shows the bung on the pan after being welded while the pan is still off the truck.

 

[UnderFire]

1/4 pipe thread doesn't mean a 1/4 inch nominal diameter; the drill size for a 1/4 NPT tap is 7/16, so basically half an inch. I think one of the ports on the filter housing is 1/4 BPST, while there is another one that is M16, but I would definitely ask Kris at KO to be sure so you don't end up buying anything you don't need. I know one port on the housing is pre-filter (dirty), and the other is post (clean), but I'm not sure which is which. I wish I had my truck with me at the moment because I could just go take a look to confirm for you myself.

As for the oil return bung, take a look at 7:18 in this portion of my turbo install series; it shows the bung on the pan after being welded while the pan is still off the truck.

They're both the same size on mine, I went ahead and ordered an M16 to 1/4 NPT adapter, I'm pretty sure that's what I need, but the metric fittings are the only ones I don't have laying around here. None of the standard sized ones seemed to be even close. I didn't know that one side was unfiltered so I'll definitely need to figure that out.

Thanks for all the help man, it's really invaluable having someone's input who's already been there and done that.

 

[Mc1337sauce]

They're both the same size on mine, I went ahead and ordered an M16 to 1/4 NPT adapter, I'm pretty sure that's what I need, but the metric fittings are the only ones I don't have laying around here. None of the standard sized ones seemed to be even close. I didn't know that one side was unfiltered so I'll definitely need to figure that out.

Thanks for all the help man, it's really invaluable having someone's input who's already been there and done that.

Of course, I'm happy to help. I will take a look at my truck when I get a chance to see which exact port the oil feed comes from on the housing. I believe I made sure to use the clean side, and it's been working rock solid for 20k miles, so I think it would be safe to say it's a good spot for a feed.

 

[99SR5rva]

How does your truck do at highway speeds? Are the 35s hard on the 3vz?

 

[UnderFire]

How does your truck do at highway speeds? Are the 35s hard on the 3vz?

3rz, lol. Don't confuse me with a 3.0 V6 please.

Define "highway", 55-65, no problem, all day, 75 is working it pretty hard, but I get great mileage on the freeway (averaged 18.5 going about 75 for a full tank vs. 14ish normally)

Gearing is the key, the 4.88's put it back in the regular range it's in with the 3.73's and 27" tires, so the only difference is the amount of weight it has to get going and keep moving.

She gets up and goes pretty good for what it's worth, much faster than any 22re powered truck or runner I've driven. You just gotta rev it out, the real power is at 3500+.

 

[UnderFire]

Small turbo update, the oil filter housing fitting is not M16, M16 is exactly what I had already. Going to try to source the right fitting locally tomorrow, or at least figure out the right size.

The exhaust flange got here and works great, had to massage the holes a bit to get M12 bolts through instead of standard sized ones, but it's a great match. Hopefully the rest of the exhaust shows up tomorrow.

I'm hoping to have everything in order by sunday, if I do, turbo install will start then.

 

[Kbuch1]

Sick build!!

 

[UnderFire]

Sick build!!

Thanks man!

First ever exhaust build today, welding aluminized is definitely a little weird. I think I got the welds looking pretty decent though. Went with a simple straight setup, put the bullet muffler right where the cat goes, if I ever get tired of it being too loud, I can always put a single chamber magnaflow or larger canister back further and go out over the axle again.

 

[UnderFire]

Picked up my spindles today, fresh Koyo bearings and seals installed. Cleaned up the mounting surfaces and pulled some fresh studs in. All ready to go. Just gotta call up Total Chaos and order some washers for my UCA's.

This poor little lugnut had to pull all the studs in lol. Didn't ever see it coming.

I also picked up a fresh set of rotors. Figured I might as well do it while I'm there. My current ones are pretty spanked from hard driving anyways.

 

[Chuckles89]

opcorn: :bluejump: looks great!

 

[UnderFire]

Picked up the last fitting today. Turbo install starts sunday unless something comes up.
[MENTION=86041]Mc1337sauce[/MENTION] Quick question, are you running stock plugs or did you go with a colder plug?

 

[Mc1337sauce]

I'm running NGK BKR5EIX plugs, so stock heat range. I would definitely look into a colder plug (BKR6EIX) if you're going to run as much or more boost than I am; the only reason I left mine alone was because my plugs were only a few thousand miles old when I turbocharged my truck. I haven't had any big issues, but I do have minor knock and timing pulled when intake air temps start getting high on 115+ degree days here in AZ.

Picked up the last fitting today. Turbo install starts sunday unless something comes up.
[MENTION=86041]Mc1337sauce[/MENTION] Quick question, are you running stock plugs or did you go with a colder plug?