Daytime Running Lights

[rando]

Mine worked with the same bulbs.

Right. I edited my post above to avoid any confusion about what I was trying to say. I only wanted to point out that the bulbs are different. Everything appears to work regardless. I'm unaware of the reason for having different bulbs and wiring in the two systems.

 

[tkr128]

No, in fact I don't think you can. The dual filement bulb likely uses a different socket. The wiring is also different. Just use the bulbs you have. It works fine.

Okay, gotcha. I was "researching" and was wondering why there were two different housings for the turn signal lamp. Thanks for clearing it up!

 

[bryancos]

I'm guessing that one filament of the dual filament is brighter (DRLS) and the other is for turn signals only? .... hence converted DRLs may have different intensity (brighter or dimmer) from stock?

It'd be interesting to see side by side comparison of a stock DRL to a converted DRL

 

[toyo]

Yesterday when I was doing my switch I compared the new bulbs to the old bulbs and they looked exactly the same. So I called a different dealership to ask them what part# the drl bulb is. He started telling me that what I was doing was not going to work since his screen was showing a different wiring harnesss for drl equipped models. I was like I know this will work. So I put the bulbs back in and it worked. I had to call him back and gloat!

 

[rando]

I'm guessing that one filament of the dual filament is brighter (DRLS) and the other is for turn signals only? .... hence converted DRLs may have different intensity (brighter or dimmer) from stock?

It'd be interesting to see side by side comparison of a stock DRL to a converted DRL

According to the wiring diagram, the DRL equipped systems share the single filement (of the dual filement bulb) for both DRLs and the turn signals. As best I can tell, the other filement is never used. Someone with factory DRLs should be able to settle this. Look at the 3 pin connector (F5 or F6) on your front turn signal. Are there 3 wires there? There should be a white/black ground wire on pin 2 and red/black (left) or red/yellow (right) on pin 3. What's on pin 1? Where does it go? I searched the entire wiring diagram and its never referenced.

The pin 3 wires flow up into harness to harness connectors in either kick panel (pin A16 of IC4 on the left, pin 1 of IN1 on the right). From there they connect to the flasher.

The non DRL system is similar except that the F5 and F6 connectors have only 2 pins. Pin 2 is again the white/black ground wire. Pin 1 is the same as pin 3 in the DRL system, same wire colors flowing to the same harness to harness connectors in the kick panels.


It's possible that pin 1 and 3 of the factory DRL system is internally shorted in the bulb socket or at the connector (not shown in the wiring diagram though). In that case, both filaments would glow and the overall effect would be brighter. Again, someone with factory DRLs will need to clear this up.

 

[toyo]

That makes since because the parts man asked me if I had 3 wires coming from my socket or 2. I only had 2 since I did not have DRl's.

 

[rando]

From the 2003 parts list

Lens & Housing
w/DRL R 81511-35400 - $46.89
w/DRL L 81521-35390 - $46.89
w/o DRL R 81511-35410 - $46.89
w/o DRL L 81521-35400 - $46.89

Bulb, Turn Signal
Clear R/L 90084-98062 - $3.89
Yellow R/L 90981-15011 - $5.14

Socket, Bubl
w/DRL R/L 90069-81003 - $7.69
w/o DRL R/L 90075-60028 - $7.20

It looks likes the lense, housing, socket, and bulb are all different in addition to the different 2 pin versus 3 pin F5/6 connector pre-wired to your factory turn signal harness.

Despite all of this, it still works.

 

[rando]

How to disable DRLs

BTW, I just confirmed the following solution to disable DRLs.

1) Pull the relay/fuse block to gain access to the DRL flasher

2) Disconnect the 12 pin connector (D2) from the flasher.

3) Disengage the secondary locking device / terminal retainer on D2. You have to pry it up (but don't remove it) with a sharp pointed tool.

4) Release and remove the green wire with red strip (pin 12 in the corner). You need to use a sharp pointed tool to release the primary retainer clip while you're pulling gently on the wire from the back side. It comes out easily if you have the retainers properly released.

5) Tape off the wire you pulled in step 4. Reattach D2 to the flasher and test.

6) Reassemble everything. Your done! The procedure is reversible and/or you can install a switch betewen the harness and flasher pin 12 to enable/disable the automatic DRL function.


For the hard core guys that don't mind cutting their factory harness, you can simplify this procedure. Just cut the green/red wire. You're done.

I've performed and tested this modifcation and believe it to work. But still, you do it at your own risk. I take no responsibility for anything that happens to you or your truck if you try this.

Enjoy!

 

[rando]

How to convert DRLs to manual

For those of you who want to control when your DRLs are on or off all you need to do is follow the procedure in the post above and then attach a switch between pin 12 of the flasher and ground. When the switch is closed, the DRLs will come on. Otherwise, they will be off. With a 3 position switch you can select between, on, off, auto.

Common - Flasher pin 12
pos 1 (off) - No connection
pos 2 (on) - Ground
pos 3 (auto) - Body ECU (via the green/red wire that used to be on pin 12)

 

[fish]

Okay...I'm braindead (just back from vacation). My DRL flasher showed up and I'm anxious to plug it in. What do I need to do to pull the fuseblock? Do I need to remove the lower dash trim (two screws) then remove the fuseblock? help!

 

[rando]

Do I need to remove the lower dash trim (two screws) then remove the fuseblock? help!

Yes and yes.

 

[toyo]

Yes, lower the dash panel. If you look back at the earlier threads there are some good instructions.

 

[j0mama]

The way I did it is to remove the bottom cover piece, and uninstall the fuseblock (I did not remove any of the wires connected) and turned the fuseblock around to access the relay..

j0.

 

[fish]

Just found Yosmany's instructions on yodatech and nailed it! Thanks all!

Instructions are here.

 

[the_josh]

whoo hoo!!!
the ups guy came last night and delivered my drl relay,
hooked it up today in like 10 mins and it works!!!
im lovin it

 

[4runnerbeginner]

Just put mine in tonight too. Works fine as far as I can tell. But one thing is nagging me. What is the difference between having the DRL module, and simply turning on the parking lights? Both turn on the same set of lights. I am sort of wondering what the $32 + shipping really buys you.

R

 

[Mark86]

Just put mine in tonight too. Works fine as far as I can tell. But one thing is nagging me. What is the difference between having the DRL module, and simply turning on the parking lights? Both turn on the same set of lights. I am sort of wondering what the $32 + shipping really buys you.

R

On non DRL models, the yellow turn signal markers don't turn on with the parking lights. Only the little yellow light above the headlights turn on. That is only a feature with the DRL's. I don't know if that is worth $32 though!

 

[rando]

I believe that the parking lights also enables your (rear) running lights. The DRL lights are just your front turn indicators only. BTW, in CA it's illegal to drive with your parking lights on (at any time). DRLs on the other hand are legal -- even recommended.

BTW, if you have the automatic on/off head lights from the limited, then the DRLs come on whenever the headlights are off.

 

[the_josh]

it is even a insurance discount, i still havent checked with mine (21st) yet...

 

[4runnerbeginner]

Your right, my insurance I think gives a discount, though I don't know how much.

Rando, I will check out what you suggest, I didn't look at the rear lights to see if they come on with the parking lights.

But for $40 and 20 minutes, it is a mod I don't mind. Don't know much else with that bang for the buck.

R