Daytime Running Lights
- Thread starter sharp4runr
- Start date
rando
Senior Member
No, the 3 wires connect the light sensor to the Body ECU. If you follow the two wires from your solar sensor, you'll find that they terminate at a 6 pin harness to harness connector, IG1. IG1 is behind the top right of the instrument cluster. If you look closely, you'll notice that the solar sensor only uses 2 of the pins on the female IG1 and that the male side has 5 wires. The extra 3 wires are the ones that connect to the light sensor. One is ground (green with white stripe), one is the battery (blue with yellow stripe), and the other is the sensor output (Yellow). These are the wires I tapped into (shown in my previous picture with a green arrow)
Looking into the sensor, you will see 3 pins as below. This is where the 4 pin A39 connector is supposed to go. Unfortunately, the SR5/Sport wiring harness doesn't have this connector so you'll have to manufacture one yourself. I used a computer CDROM Audio cable connector but replaced the wires with something a bit bigger.
(Sensor pin assignment)
4 3 x 1
Hook pin 4 to the yellow wire.
Hook pin 3 to the green/white wire.
Hook pin 1 to the blue/yellow wire.
If you don't want to use the taps, there is a cleaner way to do this. If you can find the correctly sized connector pins, it should be possible to simply solder up your wires, as above, and then insert the pins directly into the female IG1. And if you're really anal, you can even order some wire with the right colors and striping. I doubt anyone working on your truck would ever even notice your mod, in that case.
The Limited dimmer switch just replaces your existing dimmer. You don't need to change any wiring for this part.
That's it, it should work. I've tried to list everything correctly here but am not responsible for any errors and/or anything else that might happen to you or your truck. You make any modifications AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Good luck!
Looking into the sensor, you will see 3 pins as below. This is where the 4 pin A39 connector is supposed to go. Unfortunately, the SR5/Sport wiring harness doesn't have this connector so you'll have to manufacture one yourself. I used a computer CDROM Audio cable connector but replaced the wires with something a bit bigger.
(Sensor pin assignment)
4 3 x 1
Hook pin 4 to the yellow wire.
Hook pin 3 to the green/white wire.
Hook pin 1 to the blue/yellow wire.
If you don't want to use the taps, there is a cleaner way to do this. If you can find the correctly sized connector pins, it should be possible to simply solder up your wires, as above, and then insert the pins directly into the female IG1. And if you're really anal, you can even order some wire with the right colors and striping. I doubt anyone working on your truck would ever even notice your mod, in that case.
The Limited dimmer switch just replaces your existing dimmer. You don't need to change any wiring for this part.
That's it, it should work. I've tried to list everything correctly here but am not responsible for any errors and/or anything else that might happen to you or your truck. You make any modifications AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Good luck!
Last edited:
Vortec4800
New member
rando, maybe you could make a few wiring kits and step by step instructions and sell em on here, I have a feeling at least a few people will want to add the auto-lights to their truck and you could make a few bucks off each one.
Just my business sense kickin in...
Just my business sense kickin in...
rando
Senior Member
Vortec4800 said:
Well nobody has asked yet. More importantly, given the cost of the two oem parts needed (~$200), I don't expect too many people to want to do this. As far as the harness goes, it's really so simple it wouldn't be right to sell it. It's just 3 wires and any connector you can find that will fit into the sensor.
I guess my business sense only kicks in when I see MUCH bigger numbers than what's possible here.
As far as step by step instructions, I'm not sure I could explain it any better than I've already done right here in these forums. If anyone wants to do this, I'm happy to clarify what's required.
rando
Senior Member
j0mama said:
Ask another. They are wrong! Check out this thread. Send PM to JGage at yotatech. He can give you a copy of his repair order which gives the code for the procedure they performed.
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=28106&page=1&pp=25&highlight=drl
As far as switching the flashers, that would work for you too. If you are willing to be without your front turn indicators for a few days, I'll do the swap with you. I cannot be without mine so you'll need to send yours to me. I'll install it and mail mine back to you the same day.
PM me if you're interested.
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Mark86
Super Moderator
j0mama said:
They don't go on until you release your parking brake. If you set your parking brake, turn off the engine, and then restart it, your DRL's will be off. IMO, I think the 4th gen DRL look pretty cool. At least people can see you coming from a distance and it is easy for fellow 4th gens to recognize you!!
rando said:
Rando
I've copied all the instructions from this forum for installing the factory auto headlights. The one thing I am missing is how to get the instrument cluster out. Could you give a brief explanation of how to get started? I may still want to take this option.
BTW, I have installed the Desigh Tech auto head lights on module and it seems to be working fine. It's reasnoably priced at $50. I burned up the first unit after following the installation instructions - DO NOT connect the high beam wire to the module.
If anyone is interested here's the link.
http://www.designtech-intl.com:8080/merchant.ihtml?pid=54&lastcatid=12&step=4
Thanks!
rando
Senior Member
Do you mean the cover (i.e. the part that is the same color as your dash) or the cluster itself?
It's been a while so this may not be exact.
1) Remove the lower trim panel on the drivers side. There are two screws and then it snaps off. The keyhole trim piece will snap off as well.
2) Snap off instrument cluster trim. I don't believe there were any screws here. Start from the left side (near the door) and work your way to the right. It should come off fairly easily though you may have to position it just right to slide it out around the steering column/wheel.
3) There are a couple screws holding the instrument cluster in place. Remove those.
4) There are two screws that hold the wire harnesses on the back of the instrument cluster. Losen those screws until the harnesses come off. The screws themselves don't come out. They just cause the harnesses to pull away from the cluster.
5) The cluster should lift out now. Be careful not to scratch the cluster clear plastic. That stuff scratches easily!
You should be able to reach up into the dash to pop out the sensor blank. It's not easy and it might help to get someone with small hands. Make up your wiring and your done (assuming you've already replaced the dimmer stalk.
To replace the stalk, do step #1 above plus remove the 3 (or is it 4?) screws that hold the steering column trim in place. There is 1 (or two) on the bottom of the column, and 2 more screws located beneath the wheel. Turn the wheel to the left and to the right to expose the screws. After that, there is (maybe) 1 screw that holds the stalk in place. It just snaps in and out after that.
Good luck. If you want/need more specific instructions, feel free to ask.
It's been a while so this may not be exact.
1) Remove the lower trim panel on the drivers side. There are two screws and then it snaps off. The keyhole trim piece will snap off as well.
2) Snap off instrument cluster trim. I don't believe there were any screws here. Start from the left side (near the door) and work your way to the right. It should come off fairly easily though you may have to position it just right to slide it out around the steering column/wheel.
3) There are a couple screws holding the instrument cluster in place. Remove those.
4) There are two screws that hold the wire harnesses on the back of the instrument cluster. Losen those screws until the harnesses come off. The screws themselves don't come out. They just cause the harnesses to pull away from the cluster.
5) The cluster should lift out now. Be careful not to scratch the cluster clear plastic. That stuff scratches easily!
You should be able to reach up into the dash to pop out the sensor blank. It's not easy and it might help to get someone with small hands. Make up your wiring and your done (assuming you've already replaced the dimmer stalk.
To replace the stalk, do step #1 above plus remove the 3 (or is it 4?) screws that hold the steering column trim in place. There is 1 (or two) on the bottom of the column, and 2 more screws located beneath the wheel. Turn the wheel to the left and to the right to expose the screws. After that, there is (maybe) 1 screw that holds the stalk in place. It just snaps in and out after that.
Good luck. If you want/need more specific instructions, feel free to ask.
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toyo
Member
Ok, Here is the scoop on installing DRL from a non DRL equipped model. I just did it and it works. I have an 04 Sport.
I ordered the new flasher. You HAVE to remove the 3 inch harness from the previous flasher to make it work. It is very simple. I did not have to change out the bulbs. Dont know why, but it worked with the same bulbs. If anybody has any quistions please ask.
I ordered the new flasher. You HAVE to remove the 3 inch harness from the previous flasher to make it work. It is very simple. I did not have to change out the bulbs. Dont know why, but it worked with the same bulbs. If anybody has any quistions please ask.
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