Deck plate mod question

Weetabix

New member
So, I've decided that my first mod will be a simple one: the infamous deck plate mod.

I got the deck plate, and as I was looking at the box to figure out where best to put it, a question occurred to me. Why not just leave the top of the box flipped open? The filter retainer seems to hold the filter in place with the cover flipped open. The hood closes.

Since I've got the deck plate already, I'm going to put it in because... mod!

But would leaving the cover open accomplish the same thing?
 
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Until you hit a bump/bumps and it dislodges your air filter and you start pulling dirt into your engine, thus ruining it. Just do the deck plate on the front of the air box.
 
Yep...what he said...then do some real world testing with timed performance readings...and give us a full report please. Should be several trips down a track even 1/8 mile with timing slips....put this mod on a pedestal or to rest.

I searched and could not find one. Everything has been just opinions....some claim HP gain...some say no HP gain.
 
heres some overly scientific dyno runs for air intake options.

Dyno

So it appears this shows that the air filter mods on these trucks make a negligible difference, even on a supercharged motor (which might be able to use additional airflow that a stock motor can't). And his dyno runs were done (as most are) with the hood open. Close the hood and engine heat blowing off the radiator into the open airbox will probably cost horsepower (as the ECU pulls timing due to increased intake air temps). It's all just lipstick on a pig - the only thing that helps these trucks is a supercharger (and a little bit from better exhaust), and they still won't keep up with my wife's 2010 2.5L 4 cylinder RAV4.
 
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I just cut a huge hole in the front of mine for free. Combined with the ISR mod, there is much better acceleration with the 5 speed.

Since I did the intake mods and new exhaust, my truck is soooooooo much faster. (no it's not in my head- proof: I don't get passed by at least four cars at a traffic light now)
 
What dyno's don't reflect is throttle response. By breathing better, the engine responds to throttle quicker. Doesn't help the top end a whole lot but does at the beginning. If your engine is starved for air it takes a bit to get it going.

But hey, 10 HP is 10 HP. For $20 it's not bad.
 
It's hard to "feel" an HP gain that small so it just becomes speculation.

However, after one does several of these small HP gains (deckplate, headers, exhaust, etc.) they really start to add up!
 
What dyno's don't reflect is throttle response. By breathing better, the engine responds to throttle quicker. Doesn't help the top end a whole lot but does at the beginning. If your engine is starved for air it takes a bit to get it going.

But hey, 10 HP is 10 HP. For $20 it's not bad.

First, I seriously doubt that anybody is going to gain 10HP on a non-supercharged engine from the deck plate mod, and with the hood closed on a hot day it may cost you 10HP since the ECU will probably pull timing to prevent detonation due to higher intake air temps from pulling hot air from the engine bay instead of cool air through the fenderwell inlet (Toyota's own 'cold air kit'). And this is likely to occur at tip-in (part throttle - where you feel that 'throttle response') instead of just at WOT. The Toyota engineers know how much air these engines need. They use the same intake system on the supercharged 3.4s, and they need about 40% more air than a N/A 3.4, so the stock intake system has at least 40% more airflow than the N/A 3.4 NEEDS. You could put a 50 gallon barrel intake on the 3.4 and it won't help if the engine only 'needs' a given amount of airflow to make maximum power (and the amount of airflow an engine needs is determine primarily by displacement, heads, and cams - something the deck plate mod isn't going to change). An intake system only becomes a 'restriction' when the engine REQUIRES more airflow than the intake system can supply. And there is no way a N/A 3.4 engine is going to require more airflow than the stock intake system can supply.

Second, throttle response is a completely subjective thing. Technically, the 'throttle response' might be increased by a less restrictive air intake. But the only time the engine needs any extra air (more than the stock intake could supply, and only then if other engine mods made it REQUIRE more air than the stock intake can supply - the only one being a supercharger or turbocharger) is at wide open throttle. Even if (in theory) the stock air intake restricted maximum airflow in some way, it would still have plenty of airflow at 20%, 50%, 80% load, which is where 'throttle response' is 'noticed'. In other words if you are traveling at 30 MPH and you downshift and gun it (and the RPM goes to 3500) the stock intake can still supply more than enough air at 3500 RPM for all the 'throttle response' you need (probably 2 or 3 times the airflow you need at that RPM and load).

Third, you would probably need to increase power by at least 20HP on these motors in these trucks to 'feel' anything by seat of the pants, and the deckplate mod, even with headers and better exhaust isn't likely to get you that. My wife had an 06 Mustang GT and we put a cold air kit with a tune that gained about 30HP (10%, system was dyno tested in a magazine article) and you could feel that difference, but just barely. Since it was an open intake, you could 'hear' the difference in power, so it obviously made it faster :naughty:. And in the old days (and I was building engines in the 'old days' - I'm an old guy), you could add headers and get 30HP (on a big-block Chevy), change out the intake manifold (not the air intake tube) and get another 20, and they would 'add' up to close to 50HP. But with fuel injected, ECU-controlled engines, those things don't 'add' like that, since it is a tuned 'system'. Two mods that might each gain 10HP might only result in 12HP when done together. If you want some noticeable gains (in both power and mileage) I'd work on the exhaust end of things. That's where you're likely to gain 10HP, but even exhaust is a 'science' - it's not as simple as putting on a fart can muffler and heading to the race track. But again, other than a supercharger, it's all just lipstick on a pig.
 
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98OzarksRunner,

Hmm.. I know that old guys know stuff, but did you really just call my truck a pig? :)

I have to admit that I mainly wanted to do the for fun, but the fact that they use the same intake as a supercharged 3.4 has me rethinking the bother.
 
Those are some good points. I'm coming from the 3VZ-E crowd, which our engine is... under developed, to say the least. It it very starved for air. First thing I did was put a more free flowing exhaust and then mod the intake. Both made a considerable change, with the exhaust being the largest improvement. Obviously the 3VZ-E and the 5VZ-FE are not power plants and never will be. But when one struggles to even keep up with traffic then it gets a bit annoying.

I'm coming from the perspective of an forced induction 5VZ-FE, which is what the dyno runs refer to. I never dyno'd my 3VZ-E since it would be a complete waste of time and money, but since I drove it every day for 4 years, the changes I did make were noticeable since I know that truck inside and out.

I agree that a stock setup is adequate for the intake, but could most definitely benefit from an exhaust upgrade. Would at least net better MPG's, if not a small HP boost.

For a S/C rig it changes. I am currently saving for an upgraded exhaust, which will help considerably. My father is an "old guy" as well, he used to work on Fords and did several changes to his engine and exhaust with much success (he even put a dual exhaust setup on his). I plan on soon running a smaller pulley and fuel mods to compensate for the increased air charge. I will also be doing the deckplate mod.

For the OP, putting on a new cat-back system with a free-flowing muffler and increasing the exhaust size by 1/4" will further increase any gains. The intake can only flow as fast as the air coming out and visa versa. A restriction on one end will limit the effectiveness of the other. Any exhaust shop will tell you that's the setup to shoot for on older vehicles if you want to change it. If you really want to start modding your engine though, a supercharger will increase any gains exponentially.
 
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Now you guys have me thinking.

What mods make sense if you want to increase MPG while either helping or not hurting power? I'd like to play with modifying it just for the fun, but my primary goals in order would be to:

1. Increase mpg's inexpensively,
2. Increase durability/reliability inexpensively,
3. Increase (or not decrease) power inexpensively (sensing a pattern?)

It will never be a rock crawler. I'd like to be able to tackle logging roads or iffy roads to explore places most regular people don't find to camp. I'd like to be able to pull a camper occasionally (within rated load limits).

I don't want to change the look too radically. I like the way it looks.

I'm guessing an exhaust mod might not be very inexpensive, but the cost of exhaust doesn't put me off.

For reference, this is my first 4Runner. I bought a 3rd Gen on purpose. I got it about a year and a half ago, and I'm just getting a bit of time available to start playing with it. I can't afford the time or money for a radical overhaul, so bite-size, affordable modifications are the order of the day.

I'm thinking of it as a very tame hobby as an alternative to a midlife crisis. ;-)

Maybe I should actually start this as a new, newbie thread?

Edited to add: It's my daily driver. And what does "S/C" mean?
 
Now you guys have me thinking.

What mods make sense if you want to increase MPG while either helping or not hurting power? I'd like to play with modifying it just for the fun, but my primary goals in order would be to:

1. Increase mpg's inexpensively,
2. Increase durability/reliability inexpensively,
3. Increase (or not decrease) power inexpensively (sensing a pattern?)

It will never be a rock crawler. I'd like to be able to tackle logging roads or iffy roads to explore places most regular people don't find to camp. I'd like to be able to pull a camper occasionally (within rated load limits).

I don't want to change the look too radically. I like the way it looks.

I'm guessing an exhaust mod might not be very inexpensive, but the cost of exhaust doesn't put me off.

For reference, this is my first 4Runner. I bought a 3rd Gen on purpose. I got it about a year and a half ago, and I'm just getting a bit of time available to start playing with it. I can't afford the time or money for a radical overhaul, so bite-size, affordable modifications are the order of the day.

I'm thinking of it as a very tame hobby as an alternative to a midlife crisis. ;-)

Maybe I should actually start this as a new, newbie thread?

Edited to add: It's my daily driver. And what does "S/C" mean?

Caution: once you start modding it never stops. I just spend the last two evenings ripping apart my trim and headliner to re-wire my dome and map lights to function how I want them. Would that be a big deal to others? No. Did I want to do it for the satisfaction and challenge of it? You bet.

Modding isn't really a "newbie" thing, you need a good understanding of your engine and truck to do any sort of mods. Anyone can have a 4x4 shop slap on a winch and bumper, but that doesn't mean they know how to use it or compensate for extra weight.

Ozarks might has some suggestions that I'm missing but here's the ones that are worth your time and/or money (assuming you are up to date on maintenance such as MAF cleaning, spark plugs, wires, etc.):

1. Basic performance mods involve the three components for combustion: fuel, air and spark. Spark, as far as I know, makes no difference on our trucks and is fairly expensive.

A. New cat-back exhaust system. This involves removing everything downstream of the last cat and replacing the piping and muffler. This is proven to improve HP and MPG's on almost any car/truck, with the exception of new models in say, the last 10 years or so. Basically, they've made mufflers less restrictive like in the past. Increasing the size of the piping 1/4" improves flow without having potential back pressure issues. Borla and TRD make the best mufflers for us.

I'd search for others who have done the same to get a feel for how much this will do. On my last truck I did it on, I gained ~3 MPG for a cost of $275. I drive about 8000 miles a year and if you crunch the numbers, the gas savings paid off the mod in just under two years. I've saved roughly $300 in gas since then.

B. You could try running synthetic oil. Some claim better MPG's and better engine protection since the oil has a lower viscosity at start up but doesn't thin out too much like conventional oil. I will be running AMSOIL in the very near future so I'll have more experience on this one soon. We noticed no difference running synthetic in my wife's Nissan Altima though, then again it already gets 33 MPG.

C. For us with turbos or superchargers, adding more fuel helps immensely. For a stock 4Runner though, it won't do anything for you. Focusing on the air side, both intake and exhaust, will net you the most MPG/HP gains.

2. A. As far as durability goes, you can't really improve the 5VZ-FE. It's a well engineered engine that will last you a long time. Keep on on maintenance and it will be good to you. So basically, this is a freebie!

B. For the suspension/steering, you can look into replacing the sway bar and steering rack bushings. They wear down over time and you will start to lose steering control and have excess body movement. Replacing these will make your truck handle better. Just did mine a while back and for $40 it's much better, I used parts from energysuspension.com, but even cheap parts of Rock Auto would help. Lower ball joints should also be replaced roughly every 150k miles, they are know to fail catastrophically.

3. A. For power, see the cat-back exhaust. Seeing a trend here?

B. Another inexpensive "mod" you can do is to eliminate the sound baffles and passageways on the stock intake. Some buy $180 air-aid intakes which is overkill. Search "Intake Silencer Mod" and you'll get all sorts of stuff. Once again though, it's not going to do a whole lot for a N/A (naturally aspirated) engine compared to a S/C (supercharged) engine but some are happy with the results.

Other than that, there's not a whole lot that will be inexpensive. After that you get ideas of overboring the throttle body, porting the intake, etc. but that is very expensive for an engine that will see little to no performance gains. Headers are also expensive and can be very difficult to install.
 
This is great, these airbox mods go far back. I did something similar on my 93 Mustang 5.0. With that engine you could def. feel a difference. If I remember you had to drive a few hundred miles on the Mustang to allow the ECU to do it's thing and get up to speed from the extra air into the engine. Adjusting O2's and that sort of thing. Can't speak for our 4runners.
 
Caution: once you start modding it never stops........

I'd search for others who have done the same to get a feel for how much this will do. On my last truck I did it on, I gained ~3 MPG for a cost of $275. I drive about 8000 miles a year and if you crunch the numbers, the gas savings paid off the mod in just under two years. I've saved roughly $300 in gas since then.
l.

do you have a break down of how you spent 275 and picked up 3mpg

id be interested.....
 
1. Increase mpg's inexpensively,
2. Increase durability/reliability inexpensively,
3. Increase (or not decrease) power inexpensively (sensing a pattern?)

If any of those were possible the Toyota engineers would have done it. There's just no reason a competent engineering team would be leaving cheap HP or mileage on the table. People will chime in about NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness) but that's nonsense. None of those were significant design goals when these trucks were in the R&D phase. They damn sure weren't giving up 10Hp for a couple of decibels of cabin noise. The best thing you can do is keep up with your scheduled maintenance (plugs, filters, oil, etc.) and keep it running like it was designed to run.
 
do you have a break down of how you spent 275 and picked up 3mpg

id be interested.....

I should have added, my last truck had the 3VZ-E engine and was not Toyota's best, by any means. There was simple ways to improve it because it had some major flaws in the intake and exhaust. For example, they put an airflow meter from a 4 cylinder engine on the V-6, except that it restricted flow because a 3.0L engine needs more air that a 1.8L engine... stuff like that.

I'm yet to see any MPG gains on the 4Runner of any significance. Getting about 19 MPG highway, 15 city, pretty much the same as anyone else with a well-maintained 5VZ-FE engine. Still have a few things left to try but so far it's pretty much the same.
 
The deckplate and ISR mods, along with my exhaust, have totally changed the way my truck drives. It is really fast now! I also get 18-19 MPG city/hwy mix with 32" tires and a heavy right foot.
 

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