mytyeerinpie
New member
Someone post a link to this "deckplate mod"? Please for me teh N00b?
Deck Plate Mod
- Thread starter billith88
- Start date
I would defiantly stay away from anything that is oiled!!!!!!!!! also go with a sealed box. That being said if you want to save some money and still want some performance and can sacrifice some looks then do this. keep your stock air filter box- get a dry flow filter from AFE part #
( 80295931028 ) for 46.76. this filter is a direct replacement for the factory drop in paper filter then do the deck plate mod and air elbow mod. deck plate mod 12.00 dollars give or take. then get rid of the intake silencer and either buy or make a tube to connect filter box to throttle body. if you choose to buy look at Airaid JR. usually about 100.00 bucks. 158.76 total. Or you could buy the volant and just replace there oiled filter with there power core filter (dry flow and probably the best filter money can buy) this would cost a lot more probably 300 give or take. but would look great! don't know if it would produce more or less power than all the mods listed above combined. The cheapest would be to buy one of the 40.00 dollar cold air intake kits off e-bay and put a power core filter on it. this would be around 80.00 dollars give or take. problems with this is no brand name except filter and its a open filter. and quality of kit could be questionable the last thing you would want is a piece of chrome or paint to flake off and get sucked into your engine. these are the best options I have come up with. oh and get the TRD TB gasket add 3 dollars.
enjoy 410TOY
( 80295931028 ) for 46.76. this filter is a direct replacement for the factory drop in paper filter then do the deck plate mod and air elbow mod. deck plate mod 12.00 dollars give or take. then get rid of the intake silencer and either buy or make a tube to connect filter box to throttle body. if you choose to buy look at Airaid JR. usually about 100.00 bucks. 158.76 total. Or you could buy the volant and just replace there oiled filter with there power core filter (dry flow and probably the best filter money can buy) this would cost a lot more probably 300 give or take. but would look great! don't know if it would produce more or less power than all the mods listed above combined. The cheapest would be to buy one of the 40.00 dollar cold air intake kits off e-bay and put a power core filter on it. this would be around 80.00 dollars give or take. problems with this is no brand name except filter and its a open filter. and quality of kit could be questionable the last thing you would want is a piece of chrome or paint to flake off and get sucked into your engine. these are the best options I have come up with. oh and get the TRD TB gasket add 3 dollars.
enjoy 410TOY
Last edited:
J.A.
Senior Member
mytyeerinpie
New member
J.A. said:
Thanks man, where'd you get the deckplate are they availible online?
mytyeerinpie
New member
Thanks bud, I am going to try to hook this up pretty quick I am on 3 weeks leave with nothing to do so I am trying to do some cheap easy mods like this whie I am on leave
THEREALTOR1
New member
Just got down modding my airbox. Essentially it's just an "elbow removal", but I adapted slightly for a more finished look. Didn't do the deckplate mod yet, wasn't sure if I wanted to do something where I couldn't go back to stock if I needed to.
Started by picking up one of these from Lowes:
NDS 4" round grate/black - #52063 40011
and I had some of this laying around so I ended up using it as well:
Started by removing the airbox which consists of (3) 12mm bolts at the top/bottom/rear. You'll need a long extension to reach the one at the bottom. Disconnect the vacuum hose coming in to the side of the airbox from engine compartment side, and disconnect the electrical clip at the MAS. Remove the (2) 10mm bolts that secured the airbox to the inner fender well (where it connects to the elbow. Finally loosen the clamp that attaches the airflow hose to the MAS, and pull up and out on the airbox while using a twisting motion (its hard to describe but when your doing it you'll figure it out).
Next, I pulled off the passenger side wheel cover, and pulled back the black inner wheel well cover. I HATE THOSE LITTLE BLACK RETAINING CLIPS THEY USE TO SECURE THIS!!! I broke 2 in the process, but fortunately I had a few left over from when I was playing around with the driver side mocking up my mudflaps. Once my flaps go on I won't need a few of these anyway so I was able to swap these out. You also have to remove the 3 10mm screws that secure the wheel flare to the the underside of the fender. Once you get the cover pulled back, you can essentially reach up in there and wiggle out the elbow assembly. It consists of (2) pieces, the "back" piece which you pull out from the wheel well, and the "front" piece which is the part that attaches to the airbox, you pull out from the engine compartment side.
The inside diameter of the 4" plastic grate is approx. 3 5/8" while the outside diameter of the airbow where it connected to the elbow is only approx 3 1/2", this is where the stretch and seal tape comes into play. I cleaned the airbox with rubbing alcohol to remove any dirt/debris and wrapped the tape around the airbox opening, making several passes to build up the O.D. to 3 5/8". (This tape is approx. 1/16" thick, so it doesn't take to many layers to accomplish this). Once I measured/aligned everything up, I simply pushed it on the airbox opening, and made sure it was a snug fit.
That's essentially it, once your done with that just re-assemble, and take pics. It fits in there pretty snug, and I like that it still looks somewhat stock, and I could always just disassemble it quite easily if need be (which I might do when I do the deckplate mod so I get direct intake from only one location not from the front and the side.
When I do the ISR i'll probably mill the openings on the grate slightly just to maximize the air flow, however I feel more comfortable having some sort blocking in place in case it pulls in any sort of debris (ie a leaf, piece of paper, or plastic, etc...)
Well thats it, heres some pics.
Started by picking up one of these from Lowes:
NDS 4" round grate/black - #52063 40011
and I had some of this laying around so I ended up using it as well:
Started by removing the airbox which consists of (3) 12mm bolts at the top/bottom/rear. You'll need a long extension to reach the one at the bottom. Disconnect the vacuum hose coming in to the side of the airbox from engine compartment side, and disconnect the electrical clip at the MAS. Remove the (2) 10mm bolts that secured the airbox to the inner fender well (where it connects to the elbow. Finally loosen the clamp that attaches the airflow hose to the MAS, and pull up and out on the airbox while using a twisting motion (its hard to describe but when your doing it you'll figure it out).
Next, I pulled off the passenger side wheel cover, and pulled back the black inner wheel well cover. I HATE THOSE LITTLE BLACK RETAINING CLIPS THEY USE TO SECURE THIS!!! I broke 2 in the process, but fortunately I had a few left over from when I was playing around with the driver side mocking up my mudflaps. Once my flaps go on I won't need a few of these anyway so I was able to swap these out. You also have to remove the 3 10mm screws that secure the wheel flare to the the underside of the fender. Once you get the cover pulled back, you can essentially reach up in there and wiggle out the elbow assembly. It consists of (2) pieces, the "back" piece which you pull out from the wheel well, and the "front" piece which is the part that attaches to the airbox, you pull out from the engine compartment side.
The inside diameter of the 4" plastic grate is approx. 3 5/8" while the outside diameter of the airbow where it connected to the elbow is only approx 3 1/2", this is where the stretch and seal tape comes into play. I cleaned the airbox with rubbing alcohol to remove any dirt/debris and wrapped the tape around the airbox opening, making several passes to build up the O.D. to 3 5/8". (This tape is approx. 1/16" thick, so it doesn't take to many layers to accomplish this). Once I measured/aligned everything up, I simply pushed it on the airbox opening, and made sure it was a snug fit.
That's essentially it, once your done with that just re-assemble, and take pics. It fits in there pretty snug, and I like that it still looks somewhat stock, and I could always just disassemble it quite easily if need be (which I might do when I do the deckplate mod so I get direct intake from only one location not from the front and the side.
When I do the ISR i'll probably mill the openings on the grate slightly just to maximize the air flow, however I feel more comfortable having some sort blocking in place in case it pulls in any sort of debris (ie a leaf, piece of paper, or plastic, etc...)
Well thats it, heres some pics.
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Duhockey
Senior Member
Not to downplay what you have done, but it really doesnt seem like you have gained much air flow there...
the deckplate mod is a hole the size of your "grate" that is wide open in front of the airbox to suck in as much air as possible.
all you did was replace your elbow with a grate.
did you notice any difference in power at all?
the deckplate mod is a hole the size of your "grate" that is wide open in front of the airbox to suck in as much air as possible.
all you did was replace your elbow with a grate.
did you notice any difference in power at all?
THEREALTOR1
New member
Don't know, haven't driven it yet. I can hear it pulling air while playing around with the throttle cable, but I'm not sure if there's any difference in actual performance. I would think its geting more air than the stock elbow simply because i've eliminated "length" in the setup, and because it now pulls from a chamber of air (ie the entire inner fender well). Fortunately it should be quite simple to pull that piece off and mill the slots so that I can increase airflow.
Do a search on deckplate mod results as someone really cool here has posted up dyno results for deckplate mod / stock / elbow removal + OEM air filter / Amsoil upgrade.
Best bang for the buck is elbow removal and Amsoil air filter, which I believe led to 6 or 8 HP gain and ~12lb/ft gain. Cutting the airbox for the deckplate added a tiny bit more (+/- 1hp/tq) as I recall.
Don't forget to mesh-screen any openings if you remove or cut - I find bugs that have been force-injected in mine once is a while... haha Also, don't forget to clean the MAF and throttle body while in there. I do this every ~45k and have been surprised with how dirty it all gets even though the 4R is my wife's on-road DD.
Personally, I just went with elbow removal and Amsoil filter (oiled). I got almost all of the gain, it sounds pretty cool under full throttle and throttle response increased a bit (I think partly just because the induction path is a bit shorter and you get more total air). :keyboard:
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
I did the deckplate and isr mods months ago, and honestly I dont notice any difference. Other than noise. But i like to be the skeptic
J-money$$$
New member
I removed the air intake elbow over a year ago, and it makes a VERY small difference. I put it back in, and noticed a slight loss of power, but I am also running a k&n filter
J-money$$$
New member
I checked you link, I dont understand why its bad. Please fill me in
Removing elbow brought 9hp gain (it's a dyno so that's measured at the wheels, not crank). Putting the elbow back on just robbed you of that.
Stock airbox configuration (elbow off) yielded more power than K&N FPK (if that's the product you have).
So, my simple (read: could be wrong of course) sum is that if stock configuration yields more power than with K&N you're down power in the first place. Keeping the elbow intact robs you of additional power on top of that.
J-money$$$
New member
Ohhh i get it. Yeah your right. I thought yo meant with the elbow off and a k&n there was an issue. The k&n is just nice because i can clean it. Living in a desert kills air filters.
No joke, was just down your way in Lucerne visiting the grands and always forget how dusty the high desert is. I checked Amsoil product guide for you to see if you can still get their oiled air filters (they were the ticket) and it looks like they've been discontinued. Bummer.
THEREALTOR1
New member
Did a little bit of minor grinding on the slot openings tonight when I got home from work, not very pretty, but effective. I may pick up another one or two from Lowes and maybe try to do a "cleaner" version. Drove around a little bit today, didn't really notice any sort of super HP gain, but the truck did feel slightly more responsive, almost smoother thru the rpm bands. Then again this could have been more to do with the milder temps around the area today vs any increased airflow.
Again, I didn't really expect anything major out of this, but from a responsive pov it does feel like I achieved getting it access to a less restrictive air source and as makakio indicated as well, shortened up the distance of travel from point of entry to TB. I really would expect to get more of a result by doing the ISR and really streamlining the airflow.
IIRC the OD size you're looking for to do the IRS is approx. 2.75"., but I wonder what would happen if you reduced the size of the pipe abruptly down to approx. 1.50" just before the TB? I know you can use this concept of achieving pressure through resistance with H2O, I wander if you could accomplish the same with forced air?
Again, I didn't really expect anything major out of this, but from a responsive pov it does feel like I achieved getting it access to a less restrictive air source and as makakio indicated as well, shortened up the distance of travel from point of entry to TB. I really would expect to get more of a result by doing the ISR and really streamlining the airflow.
IIRC the OD size you're looking for to do the IRS is approx. 2.75"., but I wonder what would happen if you reduced the size of the pipe abruptly down to approx. 1.50" just before the TB? I know you can use this concept of achieving pressure through resistance with H2O, I wander if you could accomplish the same with forced air?
Deceptiwave
New member
I ran my deck plated modded air box with a true flow for a year and yeah it was cool, but always cleaning the MAF.
Then I switched to a wix and i am getting same mpgs and no loss of power. And I havent cleaned the MAF in a while.
Then I switched to a wix and i am getting same mpgs and no loss of power. And I havent cleaned the MAF in a while.