Deckplate mod

hose II

Well, you have the 98' so i'm not quite sure. Just make sure your FPR line is getting some vacuum air....intake manifold or something. I think when you WOT (wide open throttle) to 5000 rpm's like you said and then release, its the air ratio that is messing up if you have it connected wrong, therefore stalling the engine. Because, I'm assuming you can start it right back up right?
 
well i have to wait a minute before i start it back up, im thinking its because i didnt re-connect that hose, i just closed all 3 silencers off.
 
broncosi said:
ok so after running the ISR and deckplate mod for about a day and a half, whenever i rev my engine at stand still about 5000 RPMs, when the RPMs come down they go all the way down and the 4runner shuts off, i just dont want to be driving on the highway and this happen. Anyone?

you have a 98 as do I. the FPR hose goes into the right side of the largest silencer (looking from the front of the car). Do you have the tee set up into the plentum's nipple and all that? (plentum=grey/silver thing on top, nipple is front and center and had a rubber cap on it before)
 
air

That is my most logical guess. It has to do with that air ration thing. Go ahead and re-connect somewhere and give it a try. Post the results.
 
when I get home today in about 5 or so hours I will take some close up pictures of my stock silencer set up and label stuff. does that sound good or does everyone already know what's going where?
 
mike1305 said:
when I get home today in about 5 or so hours I will take some close up pictures of my stock silencer set up and label stuff. does that sound good or does everyone already know what's going where?

would anyone be interested in me taking the pictures or should I just save my time?
 
Re: air

jev2022 said:
That is my most logical guess. It has to do with that air ration thing. Go ahead and re-connect somewhere and give it a try. Post the results.

ok well the tube is now getting some air but sometimes it has trouble starting, it will start then just shut off, unless i tap the gas right when i start it to get the RPMs up, then they stay regular. Also where are my RPMs normally suppose to be?

at idle in drive they hover around 800 or so and in neutral around 1000 is that low or normal?
 
broncosi said:
i think the pictures on yotatech and burtman do plenty justice

allright; it seemsed as if people didnt know what went where, as in bronco with using the nipple on the plenum.


BRONCO: did you make sure to reset the EFI? pull the 15A fuse in the fusebox and leave it out for a while, 10 or so minutes.
 
mike1305 said:
allright; it seemsed as if people didnt know what went where, as in bronco with using the nipple on the plenum.


BRONCO: did you make sure to reset the EFI? pull the 15A fuse in the fusebox and leave it out for a while, 10 or so minutes.

haha yea i read and knew where everything went i just didnt want to do all of that and figured it be alot easier just to tape off the smaller silencers and and with the larger one, do the same but put a few holes in it to let air in for the tube.

yes the whole time i did the deckplate mod my EFI fuse was out but i messed around with everything(silencers) after the fuse was back in so ill go out now and take it out and just put it back in.
 
There's a lot of controversy over that "EFI" fuse, as to whether pulling it out and letting the computer reset. I personally did it after the deckplate mod, but noticed no difference in driving patterns (ie. shift points, operating temperature). If you're having problems keeping your truck running, I doubt that pulling the fuse will be the solution. You should double check that all the hoses are routed properly, and not capped off.

I did the silencer removal, and had to reconnect two vacuum hoses, as my truck is a 97. I've not had one problem since, and it's been at least 1000kms.

Good luck man!
 
Well, this morning I finally got around to the deckplate mod.......
Went to a local boat store for the deckplate and wouldn't ya know it, they had a hole saw. Actually, it turns out they have helped several Yota people!
So, they let me use their tools to do the job, they even let me use some really good boating silicon and stainless screws.......awesome people.
If you live in Colorado Springs and are looking to do this contact Al West Boat Shop.......they'll treat you right!

Next on the list is the ISR mod.........I'm going to check around for hard plumbing and possible have them weld a custom nipple for the vacum line.

-J
 
Jtwo:

don't you love getting good service like that?? Sounds like you had it good so far. I was just wondering what year your truck is? Do you have the setup with three silencers, or just one large one?

For the record, I used a soldering iron to cut the hole out of the box. Worked really good, and I didn't have to worry about plastic shavings!!
 
I have a 98 with the triple box setup and I really wanted to go the fancy route with the custom metal pipe and get intake boots from a 99-02, etc.... but it seems like a hard thing to reverse. I think I am just going to use the caps for now as a quick job to see if I like the louder sound. It seems like the ISR makes the car really noisy, but I want to hear first hand whether it is a muscle roar or a ricey one, or whether it is just too loud, or how it sounds with the deckplate on instead of off. I plan on doing it all tomorrow, I'll let everyone know how it works out, sounds, etc.

wish me luck! ;):
 
I've done the ISR with the caps, and I'm completely happy with it. I got quoted more than $100 for the intake boots at the local Toyota Dealership, plus I'd have to get the metal pipe. I dont think it looks bad either, especially if you spend the time to make it look good, and dont rush. It was hard for me to justify spending the cash, when using caps would basically have the same effect. I'd say the difference in sound, just makes it sound more like a truck. It's not ricey, just more powerful, more deep. I'm sure you'll like it, and wont consider reversing it in the future.

But ya, good luck
 
duzuck said:
I've done the ISR with the caps, and I'm completely happy with it. I got quoted more than $100 for the intake boots at the local Toyota Dealership, plus I'd have to get the metal pipe. I dont think it looks bad either, especially if you spend the time to make it look good, and dont rush. It was hard for me to justify spending the cash, when using caps would basically have the same effect. I'd say the difference in sound, just makes it sound more like a truck. It's not ricey, just more powerful, more deep. I'm sure you'll like it, and wont consider reversing it in the future.

But ya, good luck

awesome! thanks for the info. :bigok:
 
duzuck said:
Jtwo:

don't you love getting good service like that?? Sounds like you had it good so far. I was just wondering what year your truck is? Do you have the setup with three silencers, or just one large one?

For the record, I used a soldering iron to cut the hole out of the box. Worked really good, and I didn't have to worry about plastic shavings!!

I've got a 99, I have only the one big silencer....so I was thinking that I could get rid of that and the plumbing if I can find the hard piping?
 
I have a question: where did you all find the correct end caps? I went to Home Depot, and not only does the service suck, they have only 1", 1.5", 2", and 3" caps, that's it. I went ahead and bought a 3/4" plug (1" around for some reason) and I think that the plug would work better. here is a picture of what I bought:

photo00626hu.jpg


it will fit for the back, smaller silencer hole.

if i could find a plug in each size needed, it would work better imo.

2-5/16" and 1-11/16" are odd sizes. where did you guys find them?
 
That's funny about the service sucking at Home Depot. I had the manager of the plumbing department helping me out, as well as another guy. They wanted to see pictures. They even got to know my name.

I work there. :D That might have had a bearing on the assistance I got.

I basically got a bunch of end caps that I thought would fit. Some were copper, some were ABS, and some were PVC. In Canada here, we dont use PVC like you do in the states for drains, so you'll be looking at a different stock than I was.

One piece I had to hit into the intake with a hammer, one was too loose. On the one that was too loose, I wrapped adhesive weather stripping around the cap, and made sure that I clamped it in there nice. It seems to have worked like a charm. I check them every now and again to make sure that the tape hasn't fallen off (or god forbid, get into the intake).

I guess it sounds ghetto, but that's why they call it a mod. If I wanted it to look supreme, I'd pay more and get a real cold air, but I'm cheap. Just keep using trial and error, and hopefully you can make something work.
 
Jtwo:

You've got the nicer setup with only one silencer box then. If it were me, I might do what you were thinking of earlier, if I understood you correctly. I would try to weld a bung onto the pipe (or two, depending on how many hoses are connected into your silencer currently), and thread a barbed fitting into the bung. After the bung was welded on, I'd probably just do a nice paint job, maybe flat black, and assemble that together. I think powder coating would be real nice, but that's pricey I'm sure, and if you wanted to spend that much, why not just buy a real cold air intake? A couple coats of tremclad would look fine IMO.
 

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