Delayed shifting when cold, yes I know its normal but.....

[thegipper]

Once my truck warmed up, it drove fine.



Also, for what it's worth, I didn't have any of the other symptoms either other than the the reverse light would be dimly lit even though it was in park. And even then, that didn't happen all the time. No CEL either.

I wonder if the bad circuit thing on the cluster was a 00-02 thing. It seems like everyone that had the issue had a 00-02. At the same time though, I wonder if the same principles are at play and the cluster circuit can cause the issues I am having.

I guess at this point the only way to be certain is to pull the cluster out and inspect it. It still seems so odd that a bad circuit on the cluster would have anything to do with it being stuck in 1st gear until it warms up but anything is possible I guess.

 

[88toy4x4]

Sounds like I need to check that circuit board on the cluster than.

How hard is it to tell if there are any breaks in the solder? Or did you just swap in a new one? Also, my 97 doesn't have any indicators on the dash for what gear you are in, I'm assuming this is where you said the reverse light would be faintly on sometimes even though you were in park?

It took a little while to find the one break that I had. I just took my time and studied each solder point and found a break right beside a solder joint. I don't know why it broke because there shouldn't be any movement in that "flexible" circuit. But they made it flexible for a reason I guess.

 

[AntleredRuin]

I didn't notice anything obvious with my Rav4 ECU, and I've repaired plenty of flat screen TVs and monitor boards as well. Not an expert, but at least relatively experienced.

Seeing as you said it's not your DD, try the baking method I suggested. Stick it in an oven at 375ish for around 5-7 minutes. This is just long enough to reflow the solder, but not so long as to hurt any of the caps, resistors, etc.

I've done this with several GPUs and printer boards that were on the fritz. Works wonders. It brings a completely useless device back to life.

Just be prepared for the (relatively low) possibility that you may permanently damage your board and need a junkyard one, but hey, you're considering that option anyways.

Or, if you're so inclined, simply touch up all the solder joints on the board. I used this to fix my Auto Climate control.

 

[JayRolla]

I work on tvs, pcs, and small electronics for a living. That board looks clean. You could inspect more but that would take time and require a good reflow. Might as well buy the junkyard one.

But I'm at a loss on this one. I would maybe bring it to a reputable toyota dealer or trans shop instead of throwing parts at it.

 

[Toyotayoda]

Anyone suggest checking the TV cable adjustment. Check fluid level first, check tv cable adjustment. Have you bypassed your oil cooler thats in the radiator? that will cause your trans fluid temp to be much lower than ECT temp, and the shift logic follows trans fluid temp.

 

[thegipper]

TV cable is maybe a little tight, I could try to loosen it but the problem came out of no where with the same adjustment on the cable for many months. Fluid is new, level is perfect.

What is weird is not shifting out of 2nd gear is totally normal until it warms up a bit, mine used to do that fairly often. The crazy part is all of a sudden now, it won't shift out of first until it reaches about 125 degrees. Once warmed up, everything is 100% normal.

And I now get a random pending P0301 on my ultra gauge but the motor runs like it's new. No CEL on the dash, only on the ultra gauge.

Newish radiator, did not bypass oil cooler. Installed tranny temp gauge about 8 months ago. No leaks.

My money is still on the ECM....

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[thegipper]

I work on tvs, pcs, and small electronics for a living. That board looks clean. You could inspect more but that would take time and require a good reflow. Might as well buy the junkyard one.

But I'm at a loss on this one. I would maybe bring it to a reputable toyota dealer or trans shop instead of throwing parts at it.

I have zero faith in my local Toyota dealership, I have so many stories and not enough time to tell them all.

I don't know of any reputable tranny shops in my area either. Plus I'm sure I'll get the "you need a new transmission" BS.

I still may just go buy the ECM from the yard and stick it in there. It would be the fastest way to 100% rule out the ECM. Maybe I'll snag a TPS while I'm there to rule out that too.

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[mtbtim]

I still think you should drop your pan and check the filter connection with the valve body. You said you removed the filter, cleaned it up and then reinstalled it. Since this is the most recent thing transmission related you've done with your rig, I'm thinking the old cork gaskets on the filter aren't sealing well when the trans fluid is cold and you're sucking in air causing Torque Converter Drain Back. As the fluid heats up a bit, the gasket seals better because the gasket becomes more pliable and you're not sucking air anymore.

Drop the pan and put a new filter on, torque the filter bolts to spec and I bet your problems go away. Tell you what, if I'm wrong, I'll PayPal you half the cost of the trans filter.

Here's a link supporting my theory:
https://appauto.wordpress.com/2008/01/27/cold-automatic-transmission-issues/

 

[thegipper]

You may be on to something Tim.

I wonder if I can just buy the two cork gaskets for the filter or if you need to buy an entire new filter kit. I'll have to look into that.

Someone did mention earlier about "drain back" or something to that effect. I wonder how much "warmer" the tranny fluid could be by just sitting in park for 10 minutes. The fluid temp doesn't even register on my Glowshift gauge (less than 80 degrees) but perhaps it warms it up just enough to alleviate the issue you are suggesting. I also did not torque the filter to spec, at the time, I did not have a inch pound torque wrench. Looks like I'll be getting my hands dirty this weekend.

Maybe I'll drop the pan this weekend and investigate further. Thanks for the link also Tim.

PS. I appreciate the offer but that is not necessary.

 

[mtbtim]

You may be on to something Tim.

I wonder if I can just buy the two cork gaskets for the filter or if you need to buy an entire new filter kit. I'll have to look into that.

Someone did mention earlier about "drain back" or something to that effect. I wonder how much "warmer" the tranny fluid could be by just sitting in park for 10 minutes. The fluid temp doesn't even register on my Glowshift gauge (less than 80 degrees) but perhaps it warms it up just enough to alleviate the issue you are suggesting. I also did not torque the filter to spec, at the time, I did not have a inch pound torque wrench. Looks like I'll be getting my hands dirty this weekend.

Maybe I'll drop the pan this weekend and investigate further. Thanks for the link also Tim.

PS. I appreciate the offer but that is not necessary.

I highly doubt you can buy the cork gaskets separately because the filter comes with those cork gaskets affixed to the filter. Good luck with the repair.

 

[SnowLizard]

I know this might be a little simple... but...

Where is your Trans Fluid Level? is it full or low?

I know when a trans gets low on fluid, it stops functioning properly. Please check your fluid at COLD AND HOT.

 

[thegipper]

Looks like you can actually buy just the gaskets. I am going to check my fluid level in a little bit here since its been sitting for several hours now.

One of things mentioned in the article you posted in regards to drain back is that the level on the dipstick will often be much higher than it is supposed to be when it sits for awhile. If I remember correctly, my fluid level has been high when it was "cold".

I am starting to think more and more that you could be correct Tim. If those gaskets are shot and not sealing correctly (and the bolts aren't torqued to spec), I could be experiencing that drain back issue in the article. That would also explain the "slipping" like feeling when I let off the gas if the TC is not filled properly. After it runs for awhile, the TC fills back up with fluid and everything is normal.

I'm going to call my local Toyota dealership and see if they have the gaskets in stock or if they can get some ordered.

To be continued!

 

[thegipper]

I know this might be a little simple... but...

Where is your Trans Fluid Level? is it full or low?

I know when a trans gets low on fluid, it stops functioning properly. Please check your fluid at COLD AND HOT.

Fluid level is spot on when warmed up and it was checked properly.

But see my above post, it could be what Tim is suggesting.

I reused the old cork gaskets when I cleaned the filter a couple months ago and I did not torque the filter bolts to spec.

 

[thegipper]

Ok so I checked my fluid level after it was sitting for about 3.5 hours. Guess what, the fluid was about a half inch above the "Hot" mark!

I know for a fact that the level is damn near spot on when the tranny is warmed up (160 deg). I checked it while running and after shifting through each gear for 5 seconds.

The fluid level, after sitting for awhile, should be lower and not higher than after it is warmed up! I bet the fluid is draining back into the pan. That would explain stuck in 1st gear until warmed up (TC eventually fills back up with fluid) and the slipping feeling while it is stuck in 1st.

It is looking more and more like Tim's theory is correct. My filter is not sealing since I reused the old cork gaskets that were in pretty rough shape. I also did not torque the filter bolts to spec and probably didn't tighten them enough.

My dealership can't get the two cork gaskets for 3 or 4 days. My local parts store has a car quest brand filter in stock, I'll probably just put that in there. It also comes with a pan gasket.

I'm glad I didn't use FIPG when I had the pan off a couple months ago. I should be able to swap out the filters and button it all back up in an hour or so. I'll be sure to torque the filter bolts this time.

I'll report back when I get it fixed, hopefully that is the problem.

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[thegipper]

Changed out the filter with a new one and a new pan gasket. Refilled it up and took it for a spin (engine temp was already at 138) and it shifted perfect. Too early to tell if it's fixed, I'll let it sit for 3 or 4 hours and try again.

Fingers crossed!

Ps old vs new filter. The cork gaskets on the old filter were totally smashed down.

If this fixes it Tim, I'm flying out to Cali and buying you a beer!

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[mtbtim]

Changed out the filter with a new one and a new pan gasket. Refilled it up and took it for a spin (engine temp was already at 138) and it shifted perfect. Too early to tell if it's fixed, I'll let it sit for 3 or 4 hours and try again.

Fingers crossed!

Ps old vs new filter. The cork gaskets on the old filter were totally smashed down.

If this fixes it Tim, I'm flying out to Cali and buying you a beer!

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I hope that fixed it. If so, I like double and triple IPAs and strong Belgian beers.

 

[thegipper]

Well I took it for a spin. Engine temp was 78 degrees and it was still stuck in 1st. This time though it only lasted until it hit 100 degrees and then shifted fine.

Maybe it will improve over the next day or so?

Time will tell I guess.

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[mtbtim]

Well I took it for a spin. Engine temp was 78 degrees and it was still stuck in 1st. This time though it only lasted until it hit 100 degrees and then shifted fine.

Maybe it will improve over the next day or so?

Time will tell I guess.

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Bummer. I guess I won't be getting any beers. I was hoping your problem was fixed.

 

[thegipper]

Yeah me too

I think I may check the instrument cluster circuit board next.

How weird is this????

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[heat]

Would be nice to know transmission temps...

You might have one or more balky seals, until things get warm. There are
additives that can loosen things up. Cheap to test.