difference between full synthetic and synthetic blend
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eddiebx
New member
Is there any reason he is suggesting you switch to a synthetic blend as opposed to full synthetic? I believe so long as it's an API certified oil, a 0w20 oil is a 0w20 oil is a 0w20 oil; so technically speaking it should be "okay" since that's what the manual calls for. BUT, would it be possible for you to just bring a couple bottles of Toyota 0w20 and he put that in instead? I've read great things about the Toyota 0w20, so I'd probably put that in before anything else if I could help it.
JB.
New member
Yes, your engine will only be good for 467,000 miles instead of 470,000.
Sorry, just kidding.....sort of.
eddiebx
New member
lol, just get the Mobil 1 0w20 then. It's a pretty good oil too from what I understand. Besides you can't beat the 5 qt jug price at walmart!
Once you start digging deeper into the whole "synthetic" thing it gets way more confusing, and I think what 10000MPH is talking about is the base stock differences. Maybe [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] can enlighten us because I stopped trying to understand the differences
Been using it in all my vehicles for three decades.
Bay33saw
New member
Thanks guys- your input is much appreciated
Make sure you check your oil level BEFORE you leave the dealership, also check that the oil cap is on and tight....
huntsonora
Member
Actually, from my understanding the base stock is the difference. Depending on who you ask fully synthetic oils start out from a group III, group IV or group V base stock. Some oil snobs would only consider a fully synthetic oil to come from a PAO base stock of group IV or V. Group III is similar to Group II but has higher viscosity indexes. Nothing wrong with a oil from a group III base stock
Semi Synthetic oils are a blend of Group I, II or III base stock with some group IV or V mixed in but you never really know how much.
Semi synthetic oils are fine, hell, conventional oil is fine if you keep it changed. I have researched the hell out of oils to figure out what would be best for my 4Runner and decided to go with the Toyota branded full synthetic. I am an Amsoil loyalist but decided to go with Toyota this time
Since I am sure somebody will I will just come out and say correct me if I'm wrong
1engineer
Moderator
You are not wrong but actually knowing what it is and knowing what is best for your vehicle is best guess. For example, certain semi synthetics have additive packs that will outperform the full synthetics, in a given application. I just kept my answer simple and while in my real job I need to know this stuff when it comes to my truck I just use Mobil1 or Toyota brand and don't think twice about it. I am a nobody loyalist. If it is reliable and durable then I will buy it. You are right about conventional oil too, you just have to change it more often.
BlackWorksInc
New member
Without going in to a lot of complicated mumbo jumbo... a 0w-20 is not 0w-20 is not a 0w-20. SAE and API ratings are generally not very good in determining the specifications of a given oil. Now, Toyota and some Asian manufactuers care only about SAE and API ratings and thus to them as long as it meets that rating its good; but I was responding to your statement that all oils are created equally as long as they have matching SAE and API ratings, which in today's modern age is simply not true.
It comes down to marketing, when they started with the base stocks, Base 3 was given a lot of lenency and so many "synthetics" were actualy synthetic blends, regulation and such caught up and so all base 3 is labeled "synthetic blend." Base 4 & 6 are "true synthetics" while Base 5 is just a dump it all here category for everything that doesn't meet the other 5 bases (i.e. Nissan's mineral oil stuff.)
Trying to not go into too much detail, 1Engineer is right, you can have a 5w-30 blended synthetic that out performs a full synthetic 5w-30. It comes down to what the oil was formulated for and its chemical make-up and addative packages. Almost all the VW oils are like a 0w-40 or 5w-40 but they are very different from each other; a VW 502 00 and a VW 504 00 are not at all the same oil, but viscosity rating wise they may be similar. You run a VW 505 00 in a VW 502 00 engine and you'll have problems.
For Toyota, they are happy as long as you use an oil that meets their SAE and API ratings. Most blended and full synthetics will do a good job, I prefer full synthetics myself; I personally stand behind Amsoil for my vehicles, but don't think Mobil 1, RedLine, or any other synthetic is worse.
1000MPH
Senior Member
True, you might have been using an oil labeled Mobil 1 (so have I) but that oil has changed formulas drastically over the years, even within the same viscosity rating.
Many people believe Mobil 1 0W-20 to be a little behind the times compared to custom blended oils like the ones made for Toyota and Mazda.
Now let's talk about Synthetic grease. :snacker:
Very true. I found out about the changes a few years ago. I was dismayed to learn that that Mobil 1 is a blend of synthetic and natural oils. It was originally a pure synthetic (created in a lab), but Mobil successfully lobbied to continue using the 'synthetic' description while changing the formulation to a blend. They can do that in the US [where their lobbying dollars get traction] but countries like Japan and many European countries actually require that products are described accurately (imagine that concept). I continue to use it as I see it on sale in the five quart jugs all the time and it has treated my cars/motorcycles/ATVs/guns well.
As far as I know, Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, and a few others are true synthetics.
Here's some background on this controversy: Automotive Perspectives: There are only two Real Synthetic Oils in America
eddiebx
New member
I completely agree with you that on a chemical level all 0w20 oils are definitely not created equal; as you've already said, there are variations in base stocks, additives, etc..so many distinctions exists to the point that I lost interest to learn any further :sleepy:
However, I don't whole heartily agree that one cannot judge an oil by it's API rating since that's what Toyota calls for. Surely, I would imagine Toyota has done enough thinking before recommending this as the requirement for our engines.
In my opinion, to the lay person whom is unconcerned about every minute detail of a motor oil on the chemical level, going with any 0w20 from any reputable manufacturer that meets whatever API certifications Toyota recommends would be "good enough".
Specifically, what I mean is that I don't foresee any appreciable differences between the oils brands if the vehicle is being operated by an average human being and you stick to the recommend oil (and proper oil change intervals).
Perhaps if you're looking to break 1,000,000 miles, every little bit counts; but to the average driver, I don't really think it's going to make or break it. I'm sure there's lots of guys out there pushing several hundred thousand miles on their Toyota and Honda motors, and probably don't give a damn what oil goes in, so long as it's cheap, lol.
Hence why I said what I said, in that to the lay person whom is not a motor oil nut, the oils are all similar enough for their purposes and any 0w20 from a reputable manufacturer should be fine. Personally, based on my research, I will try to stick with Toyota 0w20 since it seems like an all around good oil and good value.
BlackWorksInc
New member
No arguments there Eddie, Toyota Owners got it easy, just follow the SAE API ratings and you're good to go.
