Dirtco's 1999 4Runner Build
- Thread starter Dirtco
- Start date
AZ3rdGenRunner
New member
I know this is an OLD post! However, what tubing did you use for the bumpers?
I am looking at building something similar myself, because things like CBI and Shrockworks are WAY took expensive!
I am looking at building something similar myself, because things like CBI and Shrockworks are WAY took expensive!
Dirtco
New member
I was looking at that, did you brush it on or spray it? Do you have a link? I was leaning towards that, or the Duplicolor bedliner in the blue can. It’s not as thick, but it holds up okay and it’s easy to touch up. I used it on the top, graphic’s, and wheels of my old 4Runner.
Thank you! I really can’t believe the thread is getting to be this long!
Dirtco
New member
I’m starting to fall behind on my updates; between work and home life it’s hard to find much time.
For the last couple months (before the “Tree Incident”) the 4Runner’s alignment has been less than stellar. It had a slight pull but I just figured it was from swapping the front coilovers, and I planned on getting an alignment once things settled down around the house.
I drove the 4Runner into town a few weeks ago to wash it and get ready for the work ahead of me, and it was just plain scary! The road was dry for the most part, but packed snow in places; every time I hit a snow patch the 4Runner would dart into on-coming traffic. It was one of the scariest experiences I’ve ever had in the 4Runner!
I knew the front alignment was a little off, but not that much. I looked it over and the rear heim joints are shot on the upper control arms and panhard bar. Every time I hit a slick section on the road the rear axle would shift and send the 4Runner in a different direction. After looking it over, and thinking back, I really feel this contributed to sliding off the road and hitting the tree.
So I ordered replacement heim joints for the rear upper control arms, and new rear bump stops (one is torn up pretty bad, and both seem to be getting softer after a couple years of use). I’ll order the panhard joints soon; I just felt better splitting the order up and not dropping close to $200 in joints at one time.
For the last couple months (before the “Tree Incident”) the 4Runner’s alignment has been less than stellar. It had a slight pull but I just figured it was from swapping the front coilovers, and I planned on getting an alignment once things settled down around the house.
I drove the 4Runner into town a few weeks ago to wash it and get ready for the work ahead of me, and it was just plain scary! The road was dry for the most part, but packed snow in places; every time I hit a snow patch the 4Runner would dart into on-coming traffic. It was one of the scariest experiences I’ve ever had in the 4Runner!
I knew the front alignment was a little off, but not that much. I looked it over and the rear heim joints are shot on the upper control arms and panhard bar. Every time I hit a slick section on the road the rear axle would shift and send the 4Runner in a different direction. After looking it over, and thinking back, I really feel this contributed to sliding off the road and hitting the tree.
So I ordered replacement heim joints for the rear upper control arms, and new rear bump stops (one is torn up pretty bad, and both seem to be getting softer after a couple years of use). I’ll order the panhard joints soon; I just felt better splitting the order up and not dropping close to $200 in joints at one time.
Dirtco
New member
Also, I raised the front end up to check it out and see if anything was loose. In the process one of the new shocks on the Boss coilovers blew it’s seal (or I thought) and leaked out all the oil in the shock (the passenger side). Kind of sucks since I only have a couple wheeling trips, and a couple trips into town on it.
I talked to Toytec and they said that they would warranty it, but I needed to bring it down to them so they could swap out the coil on the shock. My wife had some stuff to do down there today, so I pulled the coilover last night. Much to my surprise it was a bit more than a leaking shock.
First, the suspension seemed to droop a lot more than normal. I pried down on the suspension but the coilover kept pressure on all the hardware, I was able to drive the lower bolt out with a punch but then it got stuck in the process. The whole time the shock was puking fluid. I stepped back to think for a few minutes and things were not looking right…
After fighting with it for a while I got the punch out, and my concerns were realized.
I talked to Toytec and they said that they would warranty it, but I needed to bring it down to them so they could swap out the coil on the shock. My wife had some stuff to do down there today, so I pulled the coilover last night. Much to my surprise it was a bit more than a leaking shock.
First, the suspension seemed to droop a lot more than normal. I pried down on the suspension but the coilover kept pressure on all the hardware, I was able to drive the lower bolt out with a punch but then it got stuck in the process. The whole time the shock was puking fluid. I stepped back to think for a few minutes and things were not looking right…
After fighting with it for a while I got the punch out, and my concerns were realized.
Dirtco
New member
Toytec was great about getting it all swapped out as my wife waited. It seems like it was an isolated case, but I will be reinstalling my front limit straps to take the stress off the coilovers.
The bad news is that the unrestricted down travel took it's toll on the front suspension. The boot on the upper ball joint separated, the stainless steel front brake line bent and broke the ends, and the outer CV boot split. At this point I'm looking at yet another front end overhaul.
The bad news is that the unrestricted down travel took it's toll on the front suspension. The boot on the upper ball joint separated, the stainless steel front brake line bent and broke the ends, and the outer CV boot split. At this point I'm looking at yet another front end overhaul.
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Dirtco
New member
Yeah, I would be screwed if I didn't have the Tacoma!
Honestly, I didn't even ask. All the parts have seen a good amount of trail miles, but if it was a fresh rebuild that would be a another story.
TCMach
New member
You really took the saw to it didn't you!! :biggrin1:
Sorry to hear about the blown coilover. I'll be checking out my downtravel once I install my extended travel kings. I definitely feel you on the joints. My lower panhard bushings is toast along with all of my rear control arm bushings. Although I went all in on the bushings at once...
Sorry to hear about the blown coilover. I'll be checking out my downtravel once I install my extended travel kings. I definitely feel you on the joints. My lower panhard bushings is toast along with all of my rear control arm bushings. Although I went all in on the bushings at once...
Dirtco
New member
It was the only way to not change my mind or back out!
I will replace all the joints at once, I'm just collecting parts at this point. I found them on Amazon Prime, so the price of shipping isn't an issue.
Volcom
New member
It was the only way to not change my mind or back out!
That's what I like to hear! Next thing we'll be reading is you doing bodywork like I do with a 3lb BFH!:flipoff:
Dirtco
New member
My goal is to have the 4Runner up and going for spring snow wheeling, that means I have a lot of work and not much time (depending on snow and weather conditions).
I needed to fill the hole between the inner fender and outer body, and add some strength to the body. So I used a method I’ve used on my past 4Runners and I welded in a section of 1/4” round rod on the leading edge of the fender.
On the backside of the fender I tried something new and used small diameter tubing and bent it to follow the shape of the body. Not only does it add strength to the body, it should add a little bit of body protection to the rear ¼ panel.
I needed to fill the hole between the inner fender and outer body, and add some strength to the body. So I used a method I’ve used on my past 4Runners and I welded in a section of 1/4” round rod on the leading edge of the fender.
On the backside of the fender I tried something new and used small diameter tubing and bent it to follow the shape of the body. Not only does it add strength to the body, it should add a little bit of body protection to the rear ¼ panel.
BrianSD_42
New member
Madd skills for sure. It looks cool as #$&#@ but what are you going to put over where the holes were? Paint it black? I imagine that painting it to match the copper would show a line, you would have to basically paint the whole truck body.
Or are the flares going back on after this is done?
Or are the flares going back on after this is done?
Dirtco
New member
The lower section of the body will get coated in bedliner after I finish trimming, and filling the holes (roughly following the lines of the plastic). There is no way to keep the flares and cladding and run 36" tires.
the great him
Elite Member
Not gonna lie, I'm really disappointed...
I know its your rig and not mine, but there was something so magical about this rig with its full body and limited cladding/trim... In a way I see no difference between this and a chopped/bobbed/truggy type rig now. I just wish there had been another way, or you had a spare $5k that you could of put into it(new doors ect)...
I know this rig/build is not ment to please me or conform to my ideas or wishes but if I can be brutally honest, I probably won't fallow this build as closely anymore -not to say you will not continue your upper levels of quality craftsmanship and attention to detail, but its no longer "my cup of tea".
I'm just glad you know what your doing.
I know its your rig and not mine, but there was something so magical about this rig with its full body and limited cladding/trim... In a way I see no difference between this and a chopped/bobbed/truggy type rig now. I just wish there had been another way, or you had a spare $5k that you could of put into it(new doors ect)...
I know this rig/build is not ment to please me or conform to my ideas or wishes but if I can be brutally honest, I probably won't fallow this build as closely anymore -not to say you will not continue your upper levels of quality craftsmanship and attention to detail, but its no longer "my cup of tea".
I'm just glad you know what your doing.
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