Dirtco's 1999 4Runner Build

Going through an off camber section the 4Runner slid into a tree, luckily there was no damage, except for a couple scratches that should buff out. I’m really surprised the rear side window didn’t break; you can see the mark from a branch dragging across it!



And this was the end of the trail for the day, the snow was just too slushy and slippery to try and cross this spot. I really pushed my luck just getting there, and I would have slid into that tree if I had gone any further. I tried to back up and slid off my tracks, I ended up having to winch myself 180 degrees to get out. It was a little interesting, but I made it work.



 
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Glad to see you had the GoPro mounted, do you have a video coming for us? That one picture with the driver front buried and turned looks eerily similar to last years report when you popped the first Lotus!
 
Glad to see you had the GoPro mounted, do you have a video coming for us? That one picture with the driver front buried and turned looks eerily similar to last years report when you popped the first Lotus!

Yes, I'll have a video in the near future. It might take a little while to sort through all the footage and edit it.

Good eye! The snow was a lot more slushy this time around, but I still took it easy with the front locker. I had to pull winch line to get out of that spot.
 
that winch / swivel technique around 5:30 was badass.

haha i was ask asking myself where is that winch line going?
what the...

HOLY SHIT.

not possible...
WTF..

AWESOME!!!

(near exact reaction)

HAHA
 
You gotta do what you gotta do but there's nothing harder on poly or steel line than running out of a hawse or roller fair lead at that "sharp" of an angle. It puts tremendous strain on the line and then of course risks building up line on the drum quickly on one side. This leads to popping the stay bars on the winch AND you loose efficiency from the winch. (Your winch is rated to maximum pull strength at the first wrap on the drum. You loose pulling efficiency every wrap beyond that.) We seen many'a student bust poly line, bust winches, and kink steel line pulling at bizarre angles like that! Break out the snatch block and make your line-to-fair lead angle less acute.

Your also shock loading the line when you drive faster than the winch can pull. In your video you can see slack in the line than the truck rolls back or looses grip and the line is "snapped" tight. That's shock loading and it's waaaay bad. I talked to Thor from Viking Line a few years ago during a clinic we were giving and they see more line failures from shock loads and sharp angles off the fair lead. Drive the winch - once you see slack, stop truck movement and let the line catch up. A winch line was NEVER designed to be used as a dynamic recovery tool. It's a static tool only. It doesn't store energy, it just lets go. When you shock load a line you're imparting energy which the line can't store. You'll exceed line load very quickly.

We teach "skid" or 180 turns using a Hilift come-a-long rig off of the back of the truck. It doesn;t take as long as you might think.

But again. You gotta do what you gotta do.
 
You gotta do what you gotta do but there's nothing harder on poly or steel line than running out of a hawse or roller fair lead at that "sharp" of an angle. It puts tremendous strain on the line and then of course risks building up line on the drum quickly on one side. This leads to popping the stay bars on the winch AND you loose efficiency from the winch. (Your winch is rated to maximum pull strength at the first wrap on the drum. You loose pulling efficiency every wrap beyond that.) We seen many'a student bust poly line, bust winches, and kink steel line pulling at bizarre angles like that! Break out the snatch block and make your line-to-fair lead angle less acute.

Your also shock loading the line when you drive faster than the winch can pull. In your video you can see slack in the line than the truck rolls back or looses grip and the line is "snapped" tight. That's shock loading and it's waaaay bad. I talked to Thor from Viking Line a few years ago during a clinic we were giving and they see more line failures from shock loads and sharp angles off the fair lead. Drive the winch - once you see slack, stop truck movement and let the line catch up. A winch line was NEVER designed to be used as a dynamic recovery tool. It's a static tool only. It doesn't store energy, it just lets go. When you shock load a line you're imparting energy which the line can't store. You'll exceed line load very quickly.

We teach "skid" or 180 turns using a Hilift come-a-long rig off of the back of the truck. It doesn;t take as long as you might think.

But again. You gotta do what you gotta do.

While I agree with you in theory, this was less than an ideal situation or what I would consider a “textbook” basic recovery. There was no way to go forward without sliding into the tree well and smashing the side of my 4Runner, or rolling it in the process. The snow was extremely slushy and slick due to the fact that it was 55 degrees outside, and towards the end of the day. I tried to back out and just slid off my tracks a couple feet later, falling into the deep soft snow on the edge of the trail. The idea of using a High-Lift jack to move the rear end around is a good one, but it wouldn’t have worked as good as you think in this situation. The back tire was down in the deep snow, and pulling on it would have just dug it down deeper in the snow (and put an extreme amount of pressure on the High-Lift). Plus, there was a tree only a few feet away so by rotating the rear of the truck I wouldn’t have made it very far before the back of the truck was against the tree. Rotating the front of the 4Runner, on the packed snow was the smartest (and possibly only) option.

The video does not capture the entire recovery, just the interesting parts. It would have been very boring if I included the entire ordeal. I repositioned the winch line three times to work the front end around. The use of a snatch block wouldn’t have helped anything because I needed a fair amount of angle to get the front end to slide, instead of just pulling myself forward.

You also seem to forget that this is slick, slushy snow we are talking about, not dirt or rocks. At no time during the recovery would I consider the winch being under a hard pull (or anywhere near it), and that’s also why I kept the tires moving; to keep the tires on top of the snow and not dig in, thus creating a hard pull.

And while it was less than an ideal situation you need to remember a couple things. First, this isn’t the first time I’ve used a winch or gone wheeling. I would say I’ve used my winch more times than 95% of the people that have them, and I go wheeling just as much as anyone else on this forum. It’s easy to see a couple seconds of GoPro video at an awkward angle and think you have the whole situation figured out, but until your actually there it’s just a fraction of the whole picture.

For reference, I have a 12,000-pound winch, with the nicest winch line you can buy (Master Pull Superline XD). I knew exactly how much line was on the drum and how far I could winch before having it bunch up on the drum. I planned every step out before hand, and followed that plan the best I could. When it’s all said a done, I got out, I got home, and there was no damage to anything on the truck. All in all a successful trip!
 
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Yeah - we use XD on over 30 school trucks. (Masterpull and Superwinch are sponsors and have been good to us.) With that being said XD or Viking or old school Amsteel Blue breaks. We've seen it break in rock, sand, snow, and mud. Its broken on everything from an older FJ60 to one of our Hilux's both armored and soft skin. We go through winches like most go through tires or oil filters. (Students are hard on shit.)

I don't doubt your prowess with a winch - time with a winch has nothing if anything at all to do with how one uses it. A HiLift jack is MORE than capable of sliding a truck around especially in snow. (I've had students slide the ass end of a D130 around more than 180 degress in snow. The shear pin on a HiLift is good for 7K pounds - it would not see close to that swinging the end of a truck around in the snow.

I'm not looking to get into some kind of "Recovery Badass" competition. You use them as a past time I use them for a living to teach. You've seen all kinds of stuff and I've seen all kinds of stuff. This is what I saw: A winch line at a bizzare angle off a fair lead and a truck shock loading a line. Say what you want but that's what is on your video. Again - like I said twice before - You gotta do what you gotta do just remember what your doing. Sorry to get you a little "heated up".
 
Yeah - we use XD on over 30 school trucks. (Masterpull and Superwinch are sponsors and have been good to us.) With that being said XD or Viking or old school Amsteel Blue breaks. We've seen it break in rock, sand, snow, and mud. Its broken on everything from an older FJ60 to one of our Hilux's both armored and soft skin. We go through winches like most go through tires or oil filters. (Students are hard on shit.)

I don't doubt your prowess with a winch - time with a winch has nothing if anything at all to do with how one uses it. A HiLift jack is MORE than capable of sliding a truck around especially in snow. (I've had students slide the ass end of a D130 around more than 180 degress in snow. The shear pin on a HiLift is good for 7K pounds - it would not see close to that swinging the end of a truck around in the snow.

I'm not looking to get into some kind of "Recovery Badass" competition. You use them as a past time I use them for a living to teach. You've seen all kinds of stuff and I've seen all kinds of stuff. This is what I saw: A winch line at a bizzare angle off a fair lead and a truck shock loading a line. Say what you want but that's what is on your video. Again - like I said twice before - You gotta do what you gotta do just remember what your doing. Sorry to get you a little "heated up".

I'm not "heated up", nor am I starting a recovery competition. I was just explaining the circumstances surrounding the situation, and why I chose to extract myself the way I did. I understand you teach this stuff, and you obviously have a black and white view point on recovery techniques. While my method was not "text book" it was nowhere near a hard or "full" pull, and there was no damage to either the winch or cable. I made it home without damaging the truck, myself, or the surrounding natural resources. In my eyes that is the definition of a successful recovery!

You have made your point, and I have made my point. I guess we'll just have to leave it there.
 
Let's get it on!
 

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Great work once again!

Will you be attending the Colorado Jambo in Salida this August?

Thank you and yes, I should be there. I have attended every one since the first in 2008, so I sure hope that nothing comes up! What about you? Let me know if you plan on going and we can talk about trails, camp, etc. It's a fun event with good people!

For anyone else that might be interested here is a link:

https://www.facebook.com/ColoradoToyotaJamboree
 
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When I removed the front sway bar I gained a bunch of up-travel in the front suspension; this was a good thing and really smoothed out the ride, but it also led to some issues. Primary during high-speed trail and expedition style driving, the front suspension had a tendency to bottom out during harder hits.

So I bought some Timbren bumpstops; they are a progressive rate elastomer rubber spring. They are a little expensive for what they are, but if it does the job it will be worth it.

http://timbren.com/single-convolution/

Old and new



Old



New





 
Part# TOFTAC4A

And, have you had a chance to drive with them yet? Thoughts?

I ordered mine through Wheeler's Off-Road and they sent another part number, which I believe is a Tundra application. Maybe they can chime in and give some more info on why they use that instead of the part number you listed, which is the correct model for the 4Runner.

I have not wheeled with them yet, but once I do I'll let you know my thoughts.
 
I guess it’s time for an update…

My last morning in Moab the 4Runner had a surging idle, and it set off the check engine light. The code was a PO120, throttle position sensor. I cleared the code, and it came back a couple more times throughout the next couple weeks. Engine idle, engine performance, and transmission shift points were all affected. Being that I don’t have a local Toyota dealership I went against my better judgment and I bought/installed a replacement from Napa, I guess we’ll see how it holds up.
 
A few weeks ago I wanted to take the truck out, so I went up to Shrine Pass. It’s an easy trail, but close to home and it has some fun side trails that branch off of it.



I headed up towards Ptarmigan Pass; the lower section starts in a riverbed and usually has water flowing through it. This time the water level was very high, and the entire lower section was in water. The stream crossings were a good 30-35” deep!





Past the creek section

 
About ¾ of the way up the trail I hit snow; it was solid, but I was in more of a summer wheeling mood and really didn’t feel like airing down more (or recovering the truck if it got stuck).



So I headed back down the trail and made the decision to go check out Holy Cross, since it was only 20 minutes away. It was late Sunday afternoon and there was no traffic on the trail, so I made record time up to French Creek. At the creek I ran into two guys, they were headed down and they told me there was a small group still up the trail. I decided to give it a quick shot…



I made it most of the way, but while climbing a large boulder I ran into a problem; the front locker (or something else in the front end) didn’t seem to be working right, so I turned around. I thought that I broke something, but everything looked okay from the outside. It was getting late, so I made the decision to head home and investigate later.

 
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Once I got home I checked out the front end, and everything seemed okay. I thought that I possibly broke a CV at the time, but both of them were fine. I figured the best option was to put some more miles on the truck and see if it acted up again, or if it was just some weird random issue.
 

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