Dirtco's Adventure Thread

[Dirtco]

Little bit of progress...

Frame rails are in place, I still need to cap and gusset where they meet the stock frame. The sides are 2x3 3/16" and the front is 1/4" (which is total overkill, but I had it and it takes the hardest rock hits). I also have the front body mounts made and installed.

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[BigFishAllDay]

I noticed that you brought everything up an inch in the front and eliminated the front two body lift pucks. Obviously you're leaving yourself more room for "activities", but I'm curious what the thought process is there as it relates to stuffing in all the solid axle parts.

 

[Jaysen4runner]

Selling the ifs front diff? Pm if you are

 

[Dirtco]

I noticed that you brought everything up an inch in the front and eliminated the front two body lift pucks. Obviously you're leaving yourself more room for "activities", but I'm curious what the thought process is there as it relates to stuffing in all the solid axle parts.

Good question Nick. I want to keep the 4Runner as low as possible, but still have enough uptravel for a comfortable ride. I can't get rid of the body lift due to the rear bumper and rear fuel tank I installed, both are super tight to the body and would be a ton of work to fabricate over again. I gained an inch by ditching the front body pucks and raising the motor back to stock location, and I gained well over an inch under the frame rails (probably closer to 2" or more). By reworking the frame I can lower my ride height an inch or two (maybe more) and still have the same amount of up travel on the suspension.

This is roughly the ride height I’m shooting for, or even an inch lower if I could pull it off.

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[Dirtco]

Selling the ifs front diff? Pm if you are

It's gone, [MENTION=94888]EatonKyleH[/MENTION] picked it up for his 4Runner.

 

[Black798]

Are you planning on swapping in a manual trans radiator since you have bypassed the internal cooler to gain some more clearance? And I'm guessing your fabricating a new front bumper as well?

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Good question Nick. I want to keep the 4Runner as low as possible, but still have enough uptravel for a comfortable ride. I can't get rid of the body lift due to the rear bumper and rear fuel tank I installed, both are super tight to the body and would be a ton of work to fabricate over again. I gained an inch by ditching the front body pucks and raising the motor back to stock location, and I gained well over an inch under the frame rails (probably closer to 2" or more). By reworking the frame I can lower my ride height an inch or two (maybe more) and still have the same amount of up travel on the suspension.

This is roughly the ride height I’m shooting for, or even an inch lower if I could pull it off.

Got it. I spaced the fact that you cut out the stock engine mounts along with the frame, and that the engine can now move up too. The goal ride height looks fairly close to where you were before.

Are you planning on swapping in a manual trans radiator since you have bypassed the internal cooler to gain some more clearance?

I was wondering about that, too.

 

[Dirtco]

Are you planning on swapping in a manual trans radiator since you have bypassed the internal cooler to gain some more clearance? And I'm guessing your fabricating a new front bumper as well?

You are correct, I'm going to install a shorter 3RZ radiator. I should gain a few inches of clearance and I’ll build a guard for it if needed.

I debated the front bumper but ultimately I decided to built a new one. I plan on tucking the winch in a few inches, along with the bumper.

 

[SnowLizard]

Are you planning on keeping the multi-mode function and adding a doubler with twin stick????

I'm sure even without the doubler, the solid axle can still work fine with the multi-mode. but adding a twin stick and doubler, I'm having a hard time 'thinking' how that would still work... now if you pull it off, I'll need a shopping list please, before I drop off my truck.

 

[Dirtco]

Are you planning on keeping the multi-mode function and adding a doubler with twin stick????

I'm sure even without the doubler, the solid axle can still work fine with the multi-mode. but adding a twin stick and doubler, I'm having a hard time 'thinking' how that would still work... now if you pull it off, I'll need a shopping list please, before I drop off my truck.

The multi-mode transfer case is longer, so I can't use it without ditching the stock fuel tank. I haven't used the all wheel drive feature since I quit daily driving it, so I will be installing a shorter early style transfer case.

In therory you could still have a multi-mode transfer case behind a crawl box with triple sticks, you would need more length (like a Tacoma) and you would have to relocate the switch from the t-case shifter. You might have to trick the computer into thinking the ADD is activated, but that would be easy enough.

 

[derpiful]

I'm so excited for this!! I can't wait to see how it turns out with your attention to detail :thumb3:

 

[Dropzone]

As always your welds are a work of art!
Any time line of when you might be done? Progress is awesome

For anyone that might be ordering from Trail-Gear: If you order through Low Range you get free shipping (over $50), they will also price match sale pricing. Don't bother with the website, just call them (I talked to Parker) and place your order. I saved some serious money by going through them instead of TG.

Thanks for saving me a few $$$. I was going to try to re-use the Bud-built crossmember from my 81 but it would be a PITA. LROR had the best price on the correct dual case crossmember for the 94. Ordered it Thursday morning, it was dropped off this afternoon. Warp speed service.
Thanks!

 

[Dirtco]

I'm so excited for this!! I can't wait to see how it turns out with your attention to detail :thumb3:

Thanks Hayden! I'm looking forward to hitting the trails with you again.

As always your welds are a work of art!
Any time line of when you might be done? Progress is awesome

Thanks Robb! I'm shooting for sometime this spring, I would love to have it done for [MENTION=78892]Fishwerks[/MENTION] annual March Moab trip but with a family and a full time job I don't know if that will happen. I guess it will be done when it's done.

 

[Sean K.]

Good question Nick. I want to keep the 4Runner as low as possible, but still have enough uptravel for a comfortable ride. I can't get rid of the body lift due to the rear bumper and rear fuel tank I installed, both are super tight to the body and would be a ton of work to fabricate over again. I gained an inch by ditching the front body pucks and raising the motor back to stock location, and I gained well over an inch under the frame rails (probably closer to 2" or more). By reworking the frame I can lower my ride height an inch or two (maybe more) and still have the same amount of up travel on the suspension.

This is roughly the ride height I’m shooting for, or even an inch lower if I could pull it off.

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Will that be your outside tire width? Looks about the same as what I'm planning....but I'm widening an FJ80 axle by 4". What's the WMF to WMF you're going to get with your front axle?

***EDIT***....sorry just re-read and you said Tacoma width. I"m assuming you mean the older Tacos....no idea what the new ones are width-wise. So around 60" WMF to WMF?

 

[Sean K.]

Damnit, you just had to say it!

I've been drooling over that set up for months, but unfortunately after adding all the parts up it's way out of my price range. The 4WU kit is the best out there and totally worth the money, but it adds up so fast! It would be one thing if you had a solid axle rig and most the parts, but when you have to buy everything scratch it gets stupid expensive!

Problem with it is the ride height is way too tall.....

You're making the right call by going your own route.

 

[Dirtco]

After a ton of research and adding separate components together I finally decided to buy the full Trail-Gear three link SAS kit. I’m not huge a fan of all the parts, but even after I removed all the stuff I didn’t plan on using it was still cheaper to buy the entire kit than piece it together. I will be changing parts around and modifying stuff as I go.

It looks like Santa came early this year, all this showed up Friday afternoon!!

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[Dirtco]

Will that be your outside tire width? Looks about the same as what I'm planning....but I'm widening an FJ80 axle by 4". What's the WMF to WMF you're going to get with your front axle?

***EDIT***....sorry just re-read and you said Tacoma width. I"m assuming you mean the older Tacos....no idea what the new ones are width-wise. So around 60" WMF to WMF?

Trail-Gear says the axle is 61.75 WMS. I plan on installing IFS hubs so I can run my Tundra brakes using Front Range Off-Road's Tacoma kit.

https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/tacoma-and-4runner-brake-mounting-kit/

The IFS hubs add around three inches to the width, so when it's all said and done I should be at around 64-65".

 

[Flemster]

This thing is gonna be insane op2:

 

[Dirtco]

In anticipation of my crawl box I decided to “bolt” my motor mounts, this is an old school trick to keep the motor mounts from tearing apart. In my old green 4Runner I tore a factory mount in half, and broke an aftermarket Rockstomper mount. I tried chaining the mounts on the Turbo 4Runner, but the links stretched and the chain would also rattle around. The below link has more info on the process.

Edit - Looks like Photobucket deleted all my pictures from the Turbo 4Runner link. I also checked my original build thread on here and the pictures are gone from it too. There is another link on Pirate that explains the process, but again thanks to Photobucket all the pictures are gone.

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[fourfive]

I debated the front bumper but ultimately I decided to built a new one. I plan on tucking the winch in a few inches, along with the bumper.

Are you going with a tube or plate bumper design?

Your mig welds have a tig weld look to them, they look incredible. Almost a shame to grind them smooth. Your work always looks so neat & well organized. It's motivating. I enjoy checking in on your progress.