Disable Ebrake Auto Adjust

[UTEP]

Howdy,

Sorry to post so many threads on basically the same topic but I am very tempted to do this to prevent my brakes from over tightening.

Anyone solve their rear brake binding by somehow disabling the ebrake auto adjustment? I'm imagining just bending the adjustment lever off the teeth of the wheel…. or any other solutions?

I can't imagine the downside of doing this…manual adjustment would take minutes if ever really needed.

Thx,

Utep

 

[nevada]

due to the design, the auto-adjuster cant over tighten the shoes.


you can bend the adjuster, or remove it completely.

that would likely require you to adjust the brakes a LOT more often, as now the adjuster will be able to, and likely WILL back itself off.

my opinion, fix the actual problem you're having, and don't try to bandaid it.

these are brakes, while not the fronts, they are still pretty damned important. don't be cutting corners or rigging shit. fix it correctly.

 

[UTEP]

due to the design, the auto-adjuster cant over tighten the shoes.

What could be over tightening them then?

W

 

[nevada]

What could be over tightening them then?

W

do you have another thread that explains the problem you're having?

 

[UTEP]

do you have another thread that explains the problem you're having?

Yes…but there are no "solutions" presented on mine or other threads. None addressed the disabling adjuster.

The adjuster seems to be the culprit no matter how you slice it. Why do you think it is not the adjuster and it is incapable of over tightening?

I took apart my entire system that was quite clean to begin with and replaced all but the wheel cylinders. Some think the WC's the issue but I don't see it…

Bellcrank etc all in specs…

UTEP

 

[nevada]

Yes…but there are no "solutions" presented on mine or other threads. None addressed the disabling adjuster.

The adjuster seems to be the culprit no matter how you slice it. Why do you think it is not the adjuster and it is incapable of over tightening?

I took apart my entire system that was quite clean to begin with and replaced all but the wheel cylinders. Some think the WC's the issue but I don't see it…

Bellcrank etc all in specs…

UTEP

the auto adjuster can only adjust as far as the shoes themselves allow.
its not possibly for it to over tighten the shoes.

when the shoes move, they put pressure on the lever, which attempts to spin the star wheel. if the shoes don't move far, meaning they are adjusted up correctly, the lever ALSO doesn't move. once the brakes wear a bit, and allow/require the shoes to move a bit, it can then also move the lever far enough to turn the star wheel, thus keep the brakes adjusted up.

what problem are you having? what exactly is it doing?

 

[UTEP]

what problem are you having? what exactly is it doing?

Hi,

Well my brakes were hanging up, creating a clunk when taking off from a stop. I replaced the shoes and adjusted properly and within 2 weeks were so tight there were smoking! I went to check and could not get the drums off they were so tight. Had to back off adjuster to get the drums off.

Replaced hardware/springs and that's where I am now. I have to take a trip soon and OEM parts are at least 5 days out special order and well over $300!

Since there does not seem to be a sure solution I want to just eliminate a variable.

Any suggestions welcomed! it's a common problem with various fixes and some work some don't.

Thx

UTEP

 

[nevada]

how are the wheel cylinders?
if they are leaking, even a little but, they need to be changed.

same with the axle seals, if there is any leak, they need changed.

the fluid will soak into the shoes, causing them to swell, and drag.

also, the best/correct way to adjust the shoes, is with wheel bolted on.

this will eliminate any alignment issues, that you sometimes get with adjusting them with the drum off.

 

[UTEP]

how are the wheel cylinders?
if they are leaking, even a little but, they need to be changed.

same with the axle seals, if there is any leak, they need changed.

the fluid will soak into the shoes, causing them to swell, and drag.

also, the best/correct way to adjust the shoes, is with wheel bolted on.

this will eliminate any alignment issues, that you sometimes get with adjusting them with the drum off.

No leaks, All very clean.

I adjusted by turing the wheel several clicks and putting drum on and trying the hand lever for the ebrake. I do this until ~7 clicks before it locks the drum then bolt it all down with the wheel and try it again.

When I'm done I have ~7-9 clicks of the hand lever to lock the wheels. This is how it was 2 weeks ago.

I though the shoes could be binding but felt no cluck when drum removed. Even taping with a hammer did not make them release, locked solid-adjusted too tight.

Thx,

U

 

[Yoter]

Disabling the auto adjust will prevent the brakes from functioning as intended when being engaged by the hydraulic pistons. It is unsafe.
Your drum brake cylinders are what is causing your issue.
Trust me, I went through the the same problem.
They are cheap $12.15 at NAPA
NAPA AUTO PARTS
As others have said the movement between the pad and drum necessary to move one click of the star wheel prevents the auto adjuster from over tightening the pads. Meaning that there is always tolerance in the system.
The only issues regarding you hand brake could be the bell crank adjustment/function.
BTW all this information is already in other threads on the form, try searching around. Not trying to be a d*ck but this is your FOURTH thread on the subject!! the solutions are already in your other threads.

 

[jeepj667]

I haven't dug into 4runner drum brakes yet, but have experience with GM drums. How are your backing plates? The edge of the shoes should rub in three or so spots. If they have worn a groove into the backing plate the plates need to be welded up or replaced. The shoes get hung up in the grooves and don't retract back after letting off the pedal.

 

[UTEP]

I haven't dug into 4runner drum brakes yet, but have experience with GM drums. How are your backing plates? The edge of the shoes should rub in three or so spots. If they have worn a groove into the backing plate the plates need to be welded up or replaced. The shoes get hung up in the grooves and don't retract back after letting off the pedal.

This I considered seriously!

There are 3 contacts for each shoe.

There was no sharp groove.. even to call it a slight dip would be exaggerating, looks original as it was the same on all and a couple had more paint left than others yet felt the same. There was a little corrosion on a couple so and I sanded down to bright shiny this time and applied more grease.

I did notice that the 4R's brakes are held MUCH tighter to the backing plate than others I have worked with. It was actually hard to move them around when assembled on but I felt no grabbing or sticking.

I should clarify I am not suggesting I disable the ebrake, just the auto adjust but bending the flange off the wheel or…perhaps another way. I'd leave all hardware in tact.

Thx,

W

 

[UTEP]

BTW all this information is already in other threads on the form, try searching around. Not trying to be a d*ck but this is your FOURTH thread on the subject!! the solutions are already in your other threads.

I know…I got lost on the subject…you should see me in class with my notes!

W