Discuss: DIY Rust Proofing Options

[toverturf]

Used a bit of painters tape on some and others I just carefully painted around.
I was tempted to drop rear diff and exhaust but after removing all flaking rust on frame and not finding any suspect areas decided it wasn’t necessary.
I also think most rear diffs that leak from the housing due to rust usually leak from the cover area and not on top of the housing so why go through all the work of dropping diff.
Thinking annual application of Fluid Film will take care of areas I didn’t treat with POR-15.

I want to pull the springs and shocks so I can get the spring mount and shock mount cup coated really well. Figured since that'll make me about half way there might as well just pull the whole thing so I don't have to be crouched under there trying to get all the areas of the axle. I also plan on doing a yearly application of fluid film over everything as a added layer of protection.

 

[brillo_76]

I want to pull the springs and shocks so I can get the spring mount and shock mount cup coated really well. Figured since that'll make me about half way there might as well just pull the whole thing so I don't have to be crouched under there trying to get all the areas of the axle. I also plan on doing a yearly application of fluid film over everything as a added layer of protection.

Very good idea. If you can't get the top side of the coil cup painted. You can at least soak it with fluid. My cups themselves didnt just out first. It was the inner frame well that rotted out before the cup plates did. If you folks look real close there is a drain hole on those spring cups that gets plugged. This let's dirt sand and debris get stuck on the top of the plate. So make sure your clean that drain and get all the dirt etc off the top the plate. Before coating..

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[Sarki]

I want to pull the springs and shocks so I can get the spring mount and shock mount cup coated really well. Figured since that'll make me about half way there might as well just pull the whole thing so I don't have to be crouched under there trying to get all the areas of the axle. I also plan on doing a yearly application of fluid film over everything as a added layer of protection.

Sounds like a well thought out plan to keep your truck as rust free as possible.
The more areas you can get direct access to the better the job.
With POR-15 as well as most products where you’re applying a coating, the hardest and most time consuming part is the prep work.
By removing the rear diff assembly as well as shocks/springs you’ll gain direct access to areas that are known problems, especially the upper mounting area cups.
It’s a considerable amount of work but in the end you’ll have a better and more thorough job.
Make certain you follow all 3 steps when you’re ready to start applying the product:
1) Degreaser followed by rinsing well with water
2) Metal Prep kept wet for 20 minutes followed by rinsing with water
3) Actual POR-15 paint
After getting through the first 2 steps above I waited a few days before applying the paint as wanted to be certain every area was completely dry.
Have a bunch of small paint brushes or foam applicators on hand and some smaller jars with tight sealing screw tops for the paint. I prefer small brushes over foam applicators as some ares aren’t smooth and foam degrades quickly.
I applied the paint over a few days and stored it in smaller glass jars in the fridge with Saran Wrap under the lids prior to screwing on the top. I then put the jars in ziplock freezer bags in effort to keep any air out.
This worked for me. Keeping opened POR-15 from hardening can be tough.

 

[Kanoe]

Nothing wrong with doing it that way at all.

I curious to see how POR 15 holds up long term. Being the one I did is kept in a garage and still not fully back together yet. I dont have longevity range. From what I seen others do. If its put on properly. It lasts forever.

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I’ve got 2 spots on mine that I Por-15’ed about 8 years ago when I first bought it. Still looks like the day I put it there. It’s not a spot that has ever had FF on it either. Love that stuff.

 

[toverturf]

Very good idea. If you can't get the top side of the coil cup painted. You can at least soak it with fluid. My cups themselves didnt just out first. It was the inner frame well that rotted out before the cup plates did. If you folks look real close there is a drain hole on those spring cups that gets plugged. This let's dirt sand and debris get stuck on the top of the plate. So make sure your clean that drain and get all the dirt etc off the top the plate. Before coating..

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Yep I got that hole unplugged and got the cups all cleaned out and ready to be coated once I pull everything.

 

[toverturf]

Sounds like a well thought out plan to keep your truck as rust free as possible.
The more areas you can get direct access to the better the job.
With POR-15 as well as most products where you’re applying a coating, the hardest and most time consuming part is the prep work.
By removing the rear diff assembly as well as shocks/springs you’ll gain direct access to areas that are known problems, especially the upper mounting area cups.
It’s a considerable amount of work but in the end you’ll have a better and more thorough job.
Make certain you follow all 3 steps when you’re ready to start applying the product:
1) Degreaser followed by rinsing well with water
2) Metal Prep kept wet for 20 minutes followed by rinsing with water
3) Actual POR-15 paint
After getting through the first 2 steps above I waited a few days before applying the paint as wanted to be certain every area was completely dry.
Have a bunch of small paint brushes or foam applicators on hand and some smaller jars with tight sealing screw tops for the paint. I prefer small brushes over foam applicators as some ares aren’t smooth and foam degrades quickly.
I applied the paint over a few days and stored it in smaller glass jars in the fridge with Saran Wrap under the lids prior to screwing on the top. I then put the jars in ziplock freezer bags in effort to keep any air out.
This worked for me. Keeping opened POR-15 from hardening can be tough.

Yea it's going to be a lot of work but will be worth it in the end. I got a gallon of the degreaser and metal prep so I should have plenty of that for the job. I got the 6 pack of 4oz cans of por15 so that I wouldn't have to worry about storing a bigger can.

 

[brillo_76]

Yea it's going to be a lot of work but will be worth it in the end. I got a gallon of the degreaser and metal prep so I should have plenty of that for the job. I got the 6 pack of 4oz cans of por15 so that I wouldn't have to worry about storing a bigger can.

To store in kb seal and por 15 can be sealed with screw and a rubber washer. That will keep both kb seal and POR 15 from drying out.

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