Discuss: DIY Rust Proofing Options

[nobb]

I wanted up to open up a discussion on rust proofing our 4Runners and ask what do you guys do for rust proofing? Recently, I rinsed out the frame, did a full de-grease + wire brush and coated the frame with POR15 rust inhibitor. Most of the rust was just surface rust, but I'm hoping this POR15 application will keep any further rust at bay.

I'm considering taking the truck into a professional to get rust proofed (eg. Krown), but I was curious if there's any good DIY options. I can get the $10 Rust Check spray cans, but I think having a long nozzle with a good misting spray pattern is key. In addition to spraying the inner frame, doors, and trunk, does anyone have comments on what areas should be sprayed down?

I do occasionally offroad the truck and will regularly rinse out the inside of the frame in the winter. How does having a rust proofing wax on the inner frame affect this? Will the wax/grease trap water?

 

[kolelt]

I used Eastwood interns frame costing for inside my frame.

Then on the outside. Where I had little surface rust. I used a wire wheel to sand it of and VHT CHASSY PAINT. Been holding up good and through out the NJ winter.

Been also using FLUID FILM to coat my whole undercarriage. Especially on the rocker pannel section.

You can also use Eastwood internal frame coating if you take the plastic pillars of when you open the door. And stick the nozzle in and spray inside the rocker panels. Let it dry and spray Fliuld film.

I had few serious rust spots. And I sanded it and used POR15 on those areas. With MONSTALINER on top.

 

[WallyWest]

Used a wire brush attached to an electric drill to knock the worst of the rust off.

Brushed on this rust converter.

Klean-Strip 1 gal. Phosphoric Prep and Etch-GKPA30220 - The Home Depot

Then painted with Rustoleum.

Cheap and effective. Here's pics of my initial test, the spare tire.

What I started with.

After sanding and Prep & Etch.

After painting.

 

[meRockboost]

I have VERY little rust since I acquired my rig outside of NE but I went nuts with fluid film and spray on undercoating last winter. The spray undercoat is junk so I've been pressure washing the frame and using this stuff. I'm impressed so far but the winters will tell how good it is. Easy to apply and very little prep work, scrape any rust off with a screwdriver to get up any loose chunks then apply.

https://www.semproducts.com/rust-and-corrosion-rust-coatings/rust-traptm

 

[T4R2014]

Injecting the frame rails with used motor oil is by far the most effective undercoat for your money. I've had pretty good luck with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and their paint. I apply a thick coat with a brush. A needle scaler from harbor freight is the best way to get that loose scaley crap off. Corroseal is also another good rust converter, though not as cheap as the Rustoleum. You can put it in a spray bottle. I plan to use it on the upper shock mounts.

 

[nissanh]

Oil spray gun

I bought this air tool kit on ebay to spray used motor oil with bit of gear oil to underside of the runner including inside the frame. It was bit hard to find this kind of a oil spray gun (top left, red gun). One day, a Canadian seller listed this on ebay and I didn't think twice to by it. Cost $50 to my door.

 

[diverscale]

in the salt belt, brushing the old rust out and then painting it back is far to be enough.

What we do here is undercoat our cars with grease, as simple as it is, it is the most efficient way to prevent that frame from rotting. I also use pressure-sprayed used oil for door interior, rocker interior and so on. Underneat, special anti-rust grease I buy at my local canadian tire (rust check, the green one). Used motor oil for the undercarriage will wash-off too fast, use grease.

 

[nissanh]

That is why I use gear oil

in the salt belt, brushing the old rust out and then painting it back is far to be enough.

What we do here is undercoat our cars with grease, as simple as it is, it is the most efficient way to prevent that frame from rotting. I also use pressure-sprayed used oil for door interior, rocker interior and so on. Underneat, special anti-rust grease I buy at my local canadian tire (rust check, the green one). Used motor oil for the undercarriage will wash-off too fast, use grease.

Adding about 20-30% gear oil to used motor oil (or even better penetrating oil) seems to keep the oil film for longer periods.

 

[nobb]

Thanks for the suggestions! I don't have an air compressor so was thinking of modifying a $10 garden pump sprayer with an extended nozzle. I wonder if it would be able to spray a thicker fluid like oil.

 

[Slowgoat]

This thread is great! Thanks for the tips and keep them coming!

 

[nissanh]

Sorry, NO

Thanks for the suggestions! I don't have an air compressor so was thinking of modifying a $10 garden pump sprayer with an extended nozzle. I wonder if it would be able to spray a thicker fluid like oil.

Look one in local CL. These pop up for cheap. Don't buy any off brand compressors or pan cake type compressors. Ideal size is 8 gallons but I am OK with 3 gal 125 psi tank.

A compressor is so useful when you have an automobile. Go for it.

I got a 8 gallon Craftman compressor for $20 in Louisiana CL. A parasite stole it from my front porch!

 

[diverscale]

Adding about 20-30% gear oil to used motor oil (or even better penetrating oil) seems to keep the oil film for longer periods.

Also, a really good recipe for anti rust I've often seen here is used oil mixed with grease (and sometime a bit of transmission oil), but the thing is that you have to heat up your oil on your oven to dissolve the grease.

 

[thor999]

I bought this air tool kit on ebay to spray used motor oil with bit of gear oil to underside of the runner including inside the frame. It was bit hard to find this kind of a oil spray gun (top left, red gun). One day, a Canadian seller listed this on ebay and I didn't think twice to by it. Cost $50 to my door.

Does this have a name, or any way to reference it in a search? I sure would like to use my used oil!

 

[kgbdonkey]

I did a bunch of looking and research and i just bought Eastwood"s rust converter and rust encapsulator.

 

[Beaumont67]

Thanks for the suggestions! I don't have an air compressor so was thinking of modifying a $10 garden pump sprayer with an extended nozzle. I wonder if it would be able to spray a thicker fluid like oil.

IMPO - a pump sprayer, only transfers thinner liquids / probably not oil or wax-oil effectively.
This is recommended as the DYI Fluid Film method:

Back in the 1970's - I had my car used oil sprayed, every fall.
- however, con is on the Ph level / used engine oil, has acid in it
I have sprayed Krown myself, decades ago / it seamed water soluble, and washed off too quick.
- gone from the wheel wells, in one months time
Now I stick to way-oil products / but vehicle metal has to be totally free of any moisture, for lasting protection.

 

[Kmurt]

Used motor oil. Spray it on just before winter.

 

[nobb]

As an update, after doing a bunch of reading I went ahead and bought a small 1L pail of POR 15. Surprisingly, this stuff goes on really thin so one pail was enough to do the entire frame, fuel tank skid plate, rear axle, and control arms. Without taking the body off, I would say about >90% of the frame is doable. Took me about 20 hours to do this, 2/3 of which was just prep work. Definitely VERY messy work!

Went through the entire frame with a wire brush (hand and power drill), screwdriver to pry away some of the flakes, and also a nice degrease + rinse. Then I painted on the POR 15 with a small paint brush and also sprayed on a final layer of Rust Check black rust paint because apparently POR 15 is UV sensitive. My frame mostly had surface rust, including some larger flakes, but nothing that was too serious.

This stuff definitely feels like it'll hold up well. I plan on taking the truck in for a professional Krown rustproofing inside the frame rails and various body panels. We'll see how this POR 15 stuff holds up after the winter.

Wish I took better before pictures, but here are some of the after shots.

 

[SteelStacks]

Hey [MENTION=90778]nobb[/MENTION]

I am planning on doing something like this before winter. Don't know if I'm I'm going to use por15 though. I may go with the rustoleum or Eastwood rust converter/encapsulator and then use the chassis paint. My question is, what did you do when it came to the all the bolts and screws? Did you just paint over them? Or did you remove all of them first, then paint, then put them back in?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[shahsmerdis]

[MENTION=90778]nobb[/MENTION]

I'm sure you know, but please let that por15 cure before adding anything extra too it. not sure why you want to use krown, fluid film is probably just as good, you can use fluid film AR which is the ticker kind it supposed to last 3-5 years. but you have to brush it on.

in any case your frame must love you. get inside that frame though! hit your lines with ff too.

 

[nobb]

[MENTION=117622]SteelStacks[/MENTION]
I painted over all nuts/bolts. Not feasible to remove each single fitting...this job would take forever.

[MENTION=128090]shahsmerdis[/MENTION]
Actually with POR15 you should spray a topcoat over it within 24hrs before it fully cures. Once it's cured, it forms a rock hard surface that is difficult for any paint to bond. Fluid film isn't as readily available here in Canada. I don't have an air compressor, or otherwise I'd do it myself. Either way I figure this season I'll pay a shop to do the application and subsequent years I'll get a can of Rust Check to top up myself.