DIY Adjustable Panhard Bar (cheap)

LookAtThatDog

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Can anyone tell me if/why this wouldn't work?

36.5" rod - $13
Aluminum Swedged Rod - 7/16 Inch Thread

RH Heim joint - $5
Standard Steel Heim Joint Rod Ends, 7/16-20 RH Male

LH Heim joint - $5
Standard Steel Heim Joint Rod Ends, 7/16-20 LH Male

Throw in some jam nuts and you got yourself a panhard bar!
Steel Jam Nuts, 3/4 Inch-16 NF Fine Thread, Pack/6

I'm basically 100% copying what this dude did for his mustang
? View topic - Panhard bar / lateral bar DIY

I know there's some hate for heim joints. Other than that... thoughts?
 
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I'm not an engineer (in ANY way possible), but is Aluminum sufficient on our trucks? Seems fairly insubstantial compared to Sonoran Steel and Toytecs panhard bars.

Though right now an adjustable panhard bar is what's keeping me from moving from OME 906s to Superflex coils in the rear, so I'd love for this to be beefy enough for my rig.
 
I'm not an engineer (in ANY way possible), but is Aluminum sufficient on our trucks? Seems fairly insubstantial compared to Sonoran Steel and Toytecs panhard bars.

Anything is sufficient if designed and built properly. Steel (in general) has 3x the Young's modulus of Aluminum, so for this you would need 3x the moment of inertia--in layman terms that means you need a thicker wall than a steel tube to get the same strength.
 
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Anything is sufficient if designed and built properly. Steel (in general) has 3x the Young's modulus of Aluminum, so for this you would need 3x the moment of inertia--in layman terms that means you need a thicker wall than a steel tube of the same strength.

I'm not hating, but this doesn't seem like it's exactly thoughtfully designed. It seems like some guy on a mustang forum said "oh, hey, these parts go together and they'll fit on the car." Please tell me if I'm wrong, cause I'd love for this to be sufficient, it mostly just seems too good to be true. :fro:
 
Theres steel versions too, I just picked the aluminum one cuz that's what the guy used.

As for pulling apart, the joints thread into the bar, the jam nuts just ensure it doesn't get longer or shorter while you're driving
 
Also, I wouldn't use a 7/16" Heim. 9/16 would be my minimum on that one. Unless its a pure mall crawler.

With the roll axis on even a mildly lifted 4runner, that rod can see some big loads.
 
Panhard bars are simply a piece of tubing with threaded bungs welded on each end and a joint of some type on each end. There's nothing special about them. No reason you can't build your own as long as you know how to weld.
 
You are way off on the sizes! A $5 steel heim is NOT strong enough!!! Even if it held up it would wear out in a few months. When it comes to heims bigger is better because of the increase in wear surface area. I personally do not recommend heims on the street. They wear quickly and your runner will sound like a rusty swing set in no time!
 
The one you linked is only .058" thick. The problem is strength of the bar and the heims being durable. I say try it and then report back. What's the worst that could happen?
 
What's the worst that could happen?

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before i installed a sonoran steel kit I had never heard of a panhard bar or knew what they did, what I still don't understand, they give you the EXACT length to make the bar, if we know that why does it need to be adjustable?:confused:
 
before i installed a sonoran steel kit I had never heard of a panhard bar or knew what they did, what I still don't understand, they give you the EXACT length to make the bar, if we know that why does it need to be adjustable?:confused:

The bar is adjustable because all lifts can be a little different even if the same kit. So this way you can adjust and realign your rear axle with the frame like it was before the lift.
 
I'll put a couple things out there. Those heims are junk, and you'll be replacing them after 4 months due to the noise they'll make. Another thing is that they're WAY to small. Also the 3/4" jams nuts won't work on 7/16" heims. Just for reference, I use 1/2" heim joints on the sway bar links that I sell.

A problem that you're going to have is finding the "correct" parts to make this work. Are you wanting to stick with metric bolts, or are you going to switch to SAE? The 7/16" is the closest you're going to get to fit the metric opening. You also need to consider what you're going to use for misalignment spacers since you'll never be able to find the correct width you need.

For the panhards I've made for people I use 1-1/4" chromoly heim joints, and I make the misalignment spacers the fit the opening. Don't use anything smaller than 3/4" for this application.
 
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