DIY timing chain replacement

[andreylights]

Ola!

My 07 sport V6 has surprised me with P0016 coda and a stretched timing chain. I have experience with some minor maintenance like rotors and pads replacement etc but nothing as serious as this one. I will have a couple of friends who is going to help out but want to hear your opinions and advice if you have any.

I am planning on also replacing a water pump, thermostat, pulleys, serpentine belt and a broken AC compressor since I am there digging deep.

Luckily there is a nice video on YouTube about this particular job, it should be helpful.

I excited to work on something like that but anxious about my lack of experience. Is there anything I should do/know before I start that will make my life easier?

[MENTION=172281]waypoint[/MENTION] had a nice thread about this project as well which was helpful as well! Any tips?

 

[waypoint]

Chalk up another 2007 1GR-FE engine with timing chain problems. Sorry to hear this. Someone described the project as "just a lot of bolts" and that's accurate, a very tedious job requiring clean surfaces and accurate bolt torques.

I've put ~21K miles on mine since last year's project, and it runs great. If your chain really is elongated, you'll notice an improvement when it's replaced.

Before you tear into it, I'd remove the 4-bolt tensioner cover plate and snap a pic of the #1 chain tensioner showing how far the plunger is extended. Should be approx 1/2" or less. From what I've seen, a chain stretched enough to cause P0016 is in the 3/4" range. If the plunger is extended that far, your diagnostics are complete and off comes the timing cover, etc. If not, it may be something much simpler such as the VVT Oil Control Valve.

Let us know what you find.

 

[collierunner]

Chalk up another 2007 1GR-FE engine with timing chain problems. Sorry to hear this. Someone described the project as "just a lot of bolts" and that's accurate, a very tedious job requiring clean surfaces and accurate bolt torques.

I've put ~21K miles on mine since last year's project, and it runs great. If your chain really is elongated, you'll notice an improvement when it's replaced.

Before you tear into it, I'd remove the 4-bolt tensioner cover plate and snap a pic of the #1 chain tensioner showing how far the plunger is extended. Should be approx 1/2" or less. From what I've seen, a chain stretched enough to cause P0016 is in the 3/4" range. If the plunger is extended that far, your diagnostics are complete and off comes the timing cover, etc. If not, it may be something much simpler such as the VVT Oil Control Valve.

Let us know what you find.

Thank for the tidbit. Another 2007 here P0016 poped up last month. I've watched the youtube videos. I have been trying to decide if I want to tackle it.

 

[gaber6]

Only trouble I had on mine was the crank bolt. Get the fancy $55 tool to remove it. Also, use a Toyota waterpump gasket and Toyota sealant for the timing cover.

 

[waypoint]

Only trouble I had on mine was the crank bolt. Get the fancy $55 tool to remove it. Also, use a Toyota waterpump gasket and Toyota sealant for the timing cover.

Good point, and that tool is needed to properly torque the bolt during reassembly anyway. I removed mine w/ an impact gun easily...ended up buying the tool at the end of the project just to use the torque wrench to tighten it to spec.

 

[waypoint]

Thank for the tidbit. Another 2007 here P0016 poped up last month. I've watched the youtube videos. I have been trying to decide if I want to tackle it.

I'm hoping the Toyota chain I bought under the superseding part number holds up as well as other Toyota chains. It had different manufacturer markings on the endplates than the factory chain, hopefully a good indicator of correct quality.

 

[andreylights]

Chalk up another 2007 1GR-FE engine with timing chain problems. Sorry to hear this. Someone described the project as "just a lot of bolts" and that's accurate, a very tedious job requiring clean surfaces and accurate bolt torques.

I've put ~21K miles on mine since last year's project, and it runs great. If your chain really is elongated, you'll notice an improvement when it's replaced.

Before you tear into it, I'd remove the 4-bolt tensioner cover plate and snap a pic of the #1 chain tensioner showing how far the plunger is extended. Should be approx 1/2" or less. From what I've seen, a chain stretched enough to cause P0016 is in the 3/4" range. If the plunger is extended that far, your diagnostics are complete and off comes the timing cover, etc. If not, it may be something much simpler such as the VVT Oil Control Valve.

Let us know what you find.

Your previous posts have already helped me a lot, it's was one of the first steps of the diagnostic stage to remove the cover to inspect the tensioner which was indeed over extended with a bunch of oil sludge there. Previous owner did a $hitty job with oil changes.

 

[andreylights]

Only trouble I had on mine was the crank bolt. Get the fancy $55 tool to remove it. Also, use a Toyota waterpump gasket and Toyota sealant for the timing cover.

I am going to use Aisin pump and thermostat as I read a great deal of good reviews about them. Also thanks for the reminder to use the sealant, I am going to check [MENTION=172281]waypoint[/MENTION] s tread to get a part number, I think I saw it there.

 

[81runner]

OP, what is your mileage?

 

[techno]

I did my chain myself late last year. 4000 miles on the new one so far...
I would say the job is moderately technically difficult and very time consuming. It took me a month of weekends and a few week nights. Dealing with unexpected issues is a pain. For example, I broke one of the two studs at the bottom of the cover and needed to extract that, the crank bolt was a ***** so I had to buy the special tool (wanna buy mine??). Sometimes it takes an hour to just remove one bolt/nut/connector after you've figured out exactly which hand joints you need to dislocate in order to get in there, lol. Proper cleaning of the removed parts easily accounted for a 1/3 of the total time. Dropping the front diff and the oil pan is not necessary and would add lots more time, but would make some steps easier. I did it without removing them.
In the end I'm really happy that I did it and saved thousands on labor costs.

 

[ktom3001]

Mileage on these timing chains? Oil used and adequate intervals?
I've got 215,000 on the clock with original water pump and chain. Not really excited about taking on either project but I do feel the water pump is a bit of a time bomb.
Suppose I can pull the inspection cover to check the tensioner, had anyone done a write up on this?

 

[techno]

Mileage on these timing chains? Oil used and adequate intervals?
I've got 215,000 on the clock with original water pump and chain. Not really excited about taking on either project but I do feel the water pump is a bit of a time bomb.
Suppose I can pull the inspection cover to check the tensioner, had anyone done a write up on this?

I got the P0016 code at 120k miles. Regular oil changes between 5-10k. My water pump had a decent leak too.

Inspecting the tensioner is super easy. Literally remove 4 bolts and look inside.

 

[ktom3001]

I got the P0016 code at 120k miles. Regular oil changes between 5-10k. My water pump had a decent leak too.

Inspecting the tensioner is super easy. Literally remove 4 bolts and look inside.

That really sucks. I watched this video last night it's pretty substantial amount of work.

YouTube

I hate paying people to do my work but that's a huge project. Guess I'll hold off panic until I inspect the tensioner.

 

[andreylights]

OP, what is your mileage?

200k km or like 125k miles. Have owned the truck for the past 10k km only, so dont know much about hostory but based on cheap filter and battery the prvious owner proly didnt do oil properly either.

Water pump is leaking as well, pulleys are worn, same with the belt sooo lots of parts.

 

[waypoint]

Mileage on these timing chains? Oil used and adequate intervals?

Mine had 164K miles on it when I bought it from the original owner, it had set P0016 light at 96K miles. Poor oil change maintenance, anywhere from 20K miles on up to around 30K based on CarFax and Toyota online records.

So I can understand the chain wearing prematurely based on bad maintenance, but I've seen pics of '05 engines with much more sludge accumulation during head gasket projects and the #1 chain tensioner was right on the money...no significant chain elongation. Something must have changed on the 2007 and early 2008 chains.

 

[waypoint]

Sometimes it takes an hour to just remove one bolt/nut/connector after you've figured out exactly which hand joints you need to dislocate in order to get in there, lol.

HAHA!! AC compressor, #1 PITA to remove and install.

 

[techno]

HAHA!! AC compressor, #1 PITA to remove and install.

Not fun, that's for sure.
The item I swore the most at was one wiring loom connector between the top of the engine and the firewall. Pretty sure I invented a new insult.

 

[andreylights]

So I am just going to leave those pictures here as a reminder for people to change their oil on time, unlike the previous owner did.

I ended up replacing the the water pump, thermostat, full chain kit (tensioners, sprouts etc), radiator was leaking, AC compressor was broken, pulley were whistling and the belt was worn. Epic job, hopefully it's the last time I am going inside of this engine.

 

[waypoint]

So I am just going to leave those pictures here as a reminder for people to change their oil on time, unlike the previous owner did.

I ended up replacing the the water pump, thermostat, full chain kit (tensioners, sprouts etc), radiator was leaking, AC compressor was broken, pulley were whistling and the belt was worn. Epic job, hopefully it's the last time I am going inside of this engine.

That chain definitely can't be blamed on a manufacturing defect...major sludge.

What timing components did you use?

I'm considering dropping the oil pan sump on mine this Summer, still flushing sludge "coffee grounds" out of mine every oil change. Should have done this while I had the thing out of service for the chain project.

 

[andreylights]

That chain definitely can't be blamed on a manufacturing defect...major sludge.

What timing components did you use?

I'm considering dropping the oil pan sump on mine this Summer, still flushing sludge "coffee grounds" out of mine every oil change. Should have done this while I had the thing out of service for the chain project.

I used Cloyes - the best of non OEM that I could find.

Also considering dropping the oil pan now. Probably should have done it right away. The amount of sludge in the engine was insane, I fear that oil pain might be all covered with the same stuff and I don't want any of it back in the engine.