DIY: Ultra Low Profile Custom Rack / Crossbars for OEM TE Roof Rails

The issue is that i need to also raise the yakima bar cause if you do 4 snowboards 2 would be upside down and most likely be too close for the roof
Use a peice of square tube stock as a spacer

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Thanks OP, I've been looking for a clean and professional looking DIY alternative for some crossbars. In my case these would work fine, I really don't need crossbars but more a matter of want. And I like to tinker.
Really look forward to see how you address the final mounting of the bar to the rack as well as mating the quarter round to the crossbar.
This is great stuff!
 
Been a busy, rainy Sunday.

Progress Report:

Overall the rails are working as designed. I hit a slight speed bump - the threaded channel nuts are exactly 1mm too large. I am working towards getting alternative nuts (thinner) or something different all together. I have not yet ruled the original idea of a 5/16 threaded 1" bar. stay tuned.

In the meantime here are the fabrication and assembly photos:

Please note - I have not cleaned up the mounting adapters. I am planning to lightly sand them, take off all burrs and round the corners.

1) Bars cut to length @ 40.25" (measure your truck's rail to be sure.)
Note - I decided to make the leading one to be a bit more aerodynamic and went with a piece of 1" quarter round

mZlQa52.jpg




2) DISREGARD THIS - SEE POST #86: I carefully measured the height of center point of the stock side rails (5/8") and the centerline of the crossbars (1/2"). The carefully measured the centers of each drill hole and drilled them out on my drill press. The crossbars are 1/4" the sides are 5/16". The 3, 1/4" holes were then countersunk to match the height of the 1/4" flat head bolts.

Once the ends of all the crossbars were tapped with a 1/4-20 tap, I then assembled them:

XwglnVM.jpg




Then loosely fit the 5/16" bolts:

H40j18M.jpg





the Problem: the channel nuts are slightly too thick (by approx 1mm). I am either going to grind them down (tedious) or make the original 1" bar and tap it with a 5/16" tap.

Here is the test fitment - so far so good:

is1Cg0n.jpg
 
Last edited:
PROJECT UPDATE:

Overall, I consider this a success. However, it needs some fine tuning.

Challenge #1 - The Channel nuts are a PITA. They work (after grinding)...but they get bound up in the side rails. Solution: More grinding? Perhaps. Thing is, I am also grinding off the protective zinc coating.

JCf828F.jpg





Challenge #2 - in order to get the crossbar on cleanly, I had to loosen the side rails. Upon doing so, the bar clearance changed. Even upon tightening everything back up, the dimension changed. Solution: I am going to fabricate slightly different adapter plates that raise the cross bar up by about 1/4 to 1/2". Yes, they will be slightly above the side rails, but I think the design solution in my head will make them pleasing to look at.

This is really close. More to come.

L6lCX70.jpg



Really digging the clean look. (finished look - burrs taken off, corners rounded and surface given a light sand for appearance).

QgCDc6P.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here's the new mounting / adapter plate idea. This time, I have added some 3/8" anchor points for tie downs. The idea has potential.

xPldSlT.jpg
 
So is your thought process that once the bars in place that they'll rarely, if ever, be moved? If not, it seems like an enormous PITA to adjust the hex-head screws frequently. That said, I may be misinterpreting the functional aspect.
 
So is your thought process that once the bars in place that they'll rarely, if ever, be moved? If not, it seems like an enormous PITA to adjust the hex-head screws frequently. That said, I may be misinterpreting the functional aspect.

Not sure I follow. The bars are designed to be adjustable fore and aft. Simply loosen the two 5/16" hex bolts and slide the bar.
 
What did you use to cut the aluminum cross bars? Also is the plate used to secure the quarter round to the cross bar.
 
What did you use to cut the aluminum cross bars? Also is the plate used to secure the quarter round to the cross bar.


I simply use a multi-use blade on a chop/mitre saw. That's one of the benefits of aluminum. Just make sure the blade is for wood/metal/plastic, etc


C
 
Hi Terrapod,

I like your low profile approach. I made something similar, using mounting blocks to interface between the factory rails and the t-slot extrusion that extends past the rails 6 inches. Although not nearly as elegantly low profile as yours, it works quite well for me.

JjNDuEM.jpg


xxwS4yy.jpg


rQJRQ2u.jpg


Do you get much wind noise? I get a little bit at 60 MPH, and I'm keeping an eye out for a solution.
 
Last edited:
I simply use a multi-use blade on a chop/mitre saw. That's one of the benefits of aluminum. Just make sure the blade is for wood/metal/plastic, etc


C

Love the design that’s gone into this.

I already have clearance issues with attachments for my factory bars. With this it would allow me to use my own design to mount some items.
 
Not sure I follow. The bars are designed to be adjustable fore and aft. Simply loosen the two 5/16" hex bolts and slide the bar.

Yea, that's essentially what I was getting at. Seems to me adjusting the hex bolts would be a PITA to move the bars around unless once you have the bars "in place" they don't need to move much.
 
"Really digging the clean look. (finished look - burrs taken off, corners rounded and surface given a light sand for appearance)."

Me to, awesome work. I'm sure if you go with the alternate plate design it will also look good and obviously provide a little more clearance and I'm guessing the crossbar bolts will be exposed allowing the bar to be removed easily in case a few more t-nuts need to be added.

Regardless you've got my interest and T-Nuts got an order for some 1x3's. Thanks for sharing and good luck I've got the feeling quite a few will be following your lead.
 
Hi Terrapod,

I like your low profile approach. I made something similar, using mounting blocks to interface between the factory rails and the t-slot extrusion that extends past the rails 6 inches. Although not nearly as elegantly low profile as yours, it works quite well for me.

JjNDuEM.jpg


xxwS4yy.jpg


rQJRQ2u.jpg


Do you get much wind noise? I get a little bit at 60 MPH, and I'm keeping an eye out for a solution.
Get the peices that snap into the track, that will help your wind noise

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Hey all... Just a quick note - work on the rack is delayed due to family stuff. Should be back at work on this early next week. Stay tuned.

C
 
Hi Terrapod,

I like your low profile approach. I made something similar, using mounting blocks to interface between the factory rails and the t-slot extrusion that extends past the rails 6 inches. Although not nearly as elegantly low profile as yours, it works quite well for me.

JjNDuEM.jpg


xxwS4yy.jpg


rQJRQ2u.jpg


Do you get much wind noise? I get a little bit at 60 MPH, and I'm keeping an eye out for a solution.

Looks good and stout. It looks like you fabricated an aluminum bar, drilled and threaded to accept the bolts from your riser. What size bar did you use and did it slide inside the factory rail without issue?
 
I used .25 x .75 inch 6063 aluminum for my backing plates, because I happened to have some on hand. But you could fit .375 x 1 in the slot if you wanted. With 3 M6 bolts per riser, there is plenty of clamping pressure and I haven't had any slipping or thread damage at .25 thick. I pre-assemble, slide each riser into place, then tighten down.

I thought I'd share what I did because it is so similar to what Terrapod is building, but I don't want to highjack the thread. Please shoot me a PM if you have any specific questions - happy to share.
 
I used .25 x .75 inch 6063 aluminum for my backing plates, because I happened to have some on hand. But you could fit .375 x 1 in the slot if you wanted. With 3 M6 bolts per riser, there is plenty of clamping pressure and I haven't had any slipping or thread damage at .25 thick. I pre-assemble, slide each riser into place, then tighten down.

I thought I'd share what I did because it is so similar to what Terrapod is building, but I don't want to highjack the thread. Please shoot me a PM if you have any specific questions - happy to share.

Thanks for the response, I'm in the process of gathering materials while waiting for the T Nutzs rail delivery. I have some 1/4"X1" flat bar on hand so will most likely use that, thanks for confirming it will work.
Terrapod has done a great job so far documenting his design and build and looking forward to seeing the finished project.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,317
Messages
3,554,129
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top